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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, so when I bought this car, the cruise control did not work, then seemed to work intermittantly for about a month, and now it hasn't worked at all for a month.

so I took a look at the connectors for the brake pedal switch, and found this




the photo is a bit blurry, but if you can see it, the white plug to the right of the pedal arm, with the orange wire and the green wire going into it...the wires bend somewhat sharply and the insulation is broken and there are exposed wires...so I need to figure out a fix for this
 

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The Parts Guy
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Remove the pins from the connector, solder (if the wires are broken) and reinsulate the wires, and reinstall the pins in the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So remove the pins and strip the wires solder the pins to the wires and re-install in the connector?
 

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Hey Earl, could you post a pic showing the other end of the switch? Where it attaches to the bracket on the firewall. Is there something that snaps onto the switch body?



 

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With the blurry pic, it just looks like someone used a test probe on that wire and poked a hole thru the insulation. Is there any metal touching the wire in that area? Maybe it is shorting out. It may also be possible that they broke some of the strands in the wire when they poked it. It is also possible that they were chasing the problem and just tested the wire to see if there was power there. It may have nothing to do with your problem. I would do as the others have said and take the pins out, cut\strip the wire back behind that point and solder the pin back on. Put some shrink tubing on it to cover any exposed wire past the back of the pin and put it back into the connector. Just don't be surprised if it doesn't fix the cruise issue. At least you will know that the wire isn't the problem.

Oh, and put a grommet on that amp wire before it wears thru the insulation and gives you even more electrical problems. It could send a power surge thru other components before popping the fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanx for the suggestions guys...interestingly enough my cruise control worked just fine on the way to work last night (worked for the first time in a month) but that's really nothing new, it has intermittently worked since I bought the car. I will fix the wires or just replace them with a junkyard piece in good shape.

I will try to pull the whole switch today to have a look at it and see what I can find...at that time I will post a picture (better picture) of it...my 6 megapixel HP digital doesn't handle close up shots at all.

As for the test light probe I hadn't thought of that, makes sense...

The amp wire is NOT hooked up to anything, I just haven't taken the time to remove it from under the carpet ... It was hooked up to the sub amp, but the sub and it's amp are gone now since they where....just flat out not right in their installation. Maybe that will be today's project if weather isn't too bad...removing that amp wire.
 

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Usually indicated by a flower icon for the setting on the camera.
 

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That is the cruise control disconnect switch. If the brakes are not being depressed the circuit should be closed; with an open circuit like that the cruise control system thinks your foot is on the brake all the time and hence will not engage.
 

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Before you cut and solder check continuity on each wire. I doubt that is your problem though is possible.
 

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I had a similar problem, except my brake lights wouldnt work and the cruise would not disengage until I had significant drag on the brakes. If it was working intermittently, that could definitely be it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had a similar problem, except my brake lights wouldnt work and the cruise would not disengage until I had significant drag on the brakes. If it was working intermittently, that could definitely be it.
It is an intermittent issue with the cruise working or not working...what was the problem with your cruise and what needed to be done to fix it?
 

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bare wire shorting out against the brake pedal. I pulled, re insulated and reinstalled, and no problems since.
 

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Earl, you could tape the wires temporarily to see if it fixes your problem. If it does then you can pull the tape and do it up right. I would suggest just removing the pins from the connector and sliding some shrink tubing over the wire then pop the pins back in. make sure you put them back in the correct spots though.
 
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