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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, since my recent break to the car, I decided to put door poppers in my car and also get rid of the door handles on the inside, so I would use the door poppers always. Now, how hard are they to install? I went to two places today and the charge me from 100-150 per door. In my opinion, I think that is just too much. Im looking at the 50lbs poppers. WHat ya thinks? Inputs?! Thanks

Israel

EDIT: I forgot to add. I have a clifford alarma and I have 3 spaces left on the alarm, so I could use my alarm to open the doors, bad thing is that the alarm brain has gotten fried like 4 times, I think that would be a problem if that happens again, but I think haveing two remotes will kinda suck..
 

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If that's including the parts I think that may be decent... cause think about it... the poppers themselves cost anywhere from $50-$150... then labor... they have to sand the paint so there is a clean serface to weld on then remove the stock handles weld in a peice of metal to cover to cover the hole reinforce the spot where the hammer hits sand, prime, paint, and clear. Yea it's alot of work... but let me know how it turns out thats going to be my next project
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The price only includes installing the poppers, I never mentioned anything about sanding and painting, which I bet it's going to go higher... I might make some calls on tuesday to body shops and ask.
 

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well to weld to hardware to the car they need to sand it anyway you can only weld metal to metal so unless they are totally De De Dee they did include that in their price... well good luck anyway post some photo when complete
 

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drag-aholic
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here http://www.baggedbirds.com/shaved%20doors.htm



the electric release only from the inside is a bad idea IMO. if there is a problem like an accident and the battery gets disables you wouldn't be able to open the door. you do not have to disable the interior handle to shave the door and have them work. they are off of different levers on the latch. i think there are 3 if i remember lock, inside pull, outside pull.

after really reading the posts, there is no mods needed to the stock latch or striker as far as reinforcment. the only welding needed is for the filler panel where the handle use to be. And really you don't need the poppers (pushes door open) the Solenoid pulls the latch FYI, if the stock latch is working smoothly you should be able to have the door open about 2" when the operate the solenoid without the poppers.

this is a door popper - it goes in the door jamb http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/Autoloc/detail.lasso?itemid=DP2500
this is a door solenoid http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/Autoloc/detail.lasso?itemid=PPP35
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks alot Scott, I was hoping for you to chime in and help me out.. I called the shops and they charge me $400 per door to take off the handles and shave them along with the pait(not including installation of the kit), right away I raised the BS Flag. Does pics will help me alot to install them. I was also wondering if I should get the kit with the brain and controls or use my remote from my alarm to control them, but then what if my alarm goes bye bye?! LOL Then I am screwed. I thought about what you said about the interior door handles, and you are right, but after the jerks stealing my system, I decided to but I'll keep in mind what you told me. I am still undecided on what to do, to pay or not, but with the instructions that you gave have, It should not be THAT much of a problem. Also, what lbs are the solenoids that you bought? I was thinking of buying either 45lbs or 50lbs

Israel
 

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drag-aholic
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mine are only 35Lbs pull. you can use more if you want to.

i put mine on an existing alram i had extra channels. if you buy just the solennoids from , say, Autoloc then you can buy 2 "trunk kits" whis is a solenoid, bracket, button ad wire. i would reccomened you hide a button somewhere that will pop the door without the alarm. i added a button that will roll down the driver window. and you should think about adding a postive battery post in the fenderwell that you can put a battery to and pop a door if your battery dies. i have all 3 systems in place.
 

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I am trying to figure out a way to run a mechanical backup to open the door. My problem has not been with a dead battery but with a dead solenoid or relay. I was toying around the idea of running a cable out of the bottom of the door and towards the front of the car out near the front wheel well. I was thinking this would allow the door to open normally and be hidden from view. Then if anything happened (again :()I could reach up to the wire hidden in the wheel well and give it a tug.
 

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thats how its done. i think usually it daylights somewhere in the fenderwell. i think autoloc makes a kit for that also.

i avoid that with the battery post in the fenderwell. i don't want to see it everytime i open the door.
 

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I had those on my a Stealth. Shaved door handles, poppers triggered by Viper alarm system. Yes, the one when you get close to it, it beeps at you, or you can make it say "Protected by Viper, Stand Back". Then it blows flames out from under the car and kills people within a 30 foot radius. Well, maybe not the last part...

Thing is, they aren't safe. Get in a wreck? Car dies on you? It's on fire? Battery is busted? You're fuhqed.

Also, if your battery dies on you, you have to crawl in through the trunk. Oh wait, that's a hella lot easier in a Stealth than a Thunderbird, because, duh, it's a hatchback. Also, I didn't have a hidden button on the outside of my car. Glad I didn't, too, because people always tried to look for one.

Then, after a couple of years, one of the buttons, or both, will start to wear out and tear up.

BTW, on my Viper keychain, I only had 2 buttons, but button 1 set alarm, button 2 held in for 3 seconds opened driver's door, and both buttons at once opened passenger. From inside, I had 2 buttons placed in the car (looked like factory) for each door, so I didn't have to use the keychain to get out.
 

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You can leave the inner door handle attached so that it functions as well as the popper. Still a risk of being locked out, but not in...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am planning on putting the extra buttons on the trunk and from there open the doors if something craps out. I am still thinking about removing the inside door handles but I might go another approach. Bidding on ebay for a 50lbs Remote 8 Function Shave Popper Door Kit, so yes, I will an extra remote just in case. 2 more days till auction ends..

Israel
 

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Just remember most tracks require exterior door handles for safety in case they have to pull you out of the car.

-Miller
 
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