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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to remove the lock cylinder on my 94 Bird. I did what the service manual says and rotated the key to RUN and pressed the release pin but the cylinder will not come out. When I look through the access hole I can see the cylinder wiggle but that's it. Am I missing something here? Is there some condition that will prevent it from coming out?
 

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I'm trying to remove the lock cylinder on my 94 Bird. I did what the service manual says and rotated the key to RUN and pressed the release pin but the cylinder will not come out. When I look through the access hole I can see the cylinder wiggle but that's it. Am I missing something here? Is there some condition that will prevent it from coming out?
If you have the cylinder turned to RUN and you are pushing that little pin through the access hole on the bottom, it should pull out. If not - wiggle it.
The end of the cylinder is like a hammer, so you may have to turn it back and forth slightly while pulling to get it out.

Funny thing about changing those cylinders - I never change them UNLESS I LOST THE KEY! I always wind up drilling them out for that very reason! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here's a little background as to why I want to remove the lock cylinder. One of the ignition actuator levers broke the other day, you know the "car's running but can't turn it off" scenario. I wanted to replace those so I don't have to drive around with my ignition switch hanging down from the column. So I thought I'd start with the easiest looking task but that hasn't worked out so well.

I thought it was interesting that there was no access hole in the lock cylinder housing (I think that's what it's called). I had to drill a hole just to be able to push the release pin. Also since this occurred the steering wheel doesn't lock. I don't have to put the key in the lock cylinder, just jump in and push the pin forward on the ignition switch to start the car.

So with those things in mind is it possible that something went crazy with the locking mechanism and that's why the cylinder won't come out? I've tried wiggling, boy have I tried. Maybe a slide hammer next? ;)
 

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I had to drill a hole just to be able to push the release pin.
No, that's not a good sign.

Unless you have a completely different column than I do, there's a hole. :confused:

You have to yank it to do the turn signal switch... I've had all three cars' out.

You doing it wrong will make it much more difficult, IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here are a couple of photos that show what I'm working with. The hole on the underside of the lock cylinder housing was drilled by me.


You have to yank it to do the turn signal switch... I've had all three cars' out.
This photo shows the face of the lock cylinder. The plastic piece with the "ears" is separate and held on with 3 screws. I changed the turn signal last year without having to pull the lock cylinder. I removed the ears, then the cowling around the column to access the turn signal assembly. As this is a 94 maybe it was an early production run and they changed it later where the ears are integral with the lock cylinder. I don't know.

Note the ignition switch hanging down, now that's style...:rolleyes:

So, back to my previous question, is it likely that something broke in the steering lock mechanism that is preventing the lock cylinder from coming out?
 

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How To Remove/Install Ignition Lock Cylinder

The following procedure applies to vehicles that have functional ignition switch lock cylinders.
Lock cylinder keys are available for these vehicles, or the lock cylinder key numbers are known and the proper key can be made.


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable..
2. Turn ignition switch lock cylinder to RUN position..
3. Place a 3.17 mm (1/8-inch) diameter wire pin or small drift punch in hole in upper steering column shroud under ignition switch lock cylinder..
4. Press retaining pin while pulling out on ignition switch lock cylinder to remove it from steering column tube flange..

Installation

1. Install ignition switch lock cylinder by turning it to RUN position, and pressing retaining pin..
2. Insert ignition switch lock cylinder into steering column tube flange..
....Ensure ignition switch lock cylinder is fully seated,and aligned in interlocking washer before turning key to OFF position..
....This will permit cylinder retaining pin to extend into steering column tube flange hole..

3. Rotate ignition switch lock cylinder using lock cylinder key to ensure correct mechanical operation in all positions..
4. Connect battery ground cable..

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition switch is inoperative, and the ignition switch cannot be rotated..
This could be due to a lost or broken lock cylinder key, an ignition switch cap that has been damaged and/or broken to the extent that the key cannot be rotated..


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable..
2. Remove steering wheel..
3. Using channel-lock pliers or vise-grip-type pliers, twist ignition switch cap or bezel until it separates from ignition switch lock cylinder..
4. Using a 3/8-inch diameter drill, drill down middle of key slot approximately 44 mm (1-3/4 inch)..
....Until ignition switch lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of ignition switch lock cylinder..
5. Remove lock cylinder, and drill shavings from steering column tube flange..
6. Remove steering column upper bearing retainer, steering column lock housing bearing, ignition switch lock cylinder, and steering column lock gear..
7. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings, and other foreign materials from casting..
8. Carefully inspect steering column tube flange for damage from the above operation..
....If damage is apparent, steering column tube flange must be replaced..


Installation

1. Replace steering column tube flange if damaged..
2. Install steering column lock gear, and ignition switch lock cylinder as outlined..
3. Install trim, and electrical parts..
4. Install new ignition switch lock cylinder as outlined..
5. Install steering wheel as outlined..
6. Check ignition switch lock cylinder operation..




I know you said you got your directions from the service manual, but maybe their is something in these directions that'll help.. :zdunno:




Rayo..
 

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Dude is that some kinda protective shield bolted to the bottom? I have never seen that on a ford lock cylinder. In fact, your pics look nothing like what I remember it being like. I always thought the "ears" (aka handle?) to turn the lock cylinder with kinda snapped in place because I always just popped the ones back on that fall off on me. Even the keyhole of your lock cylinder looks wierd to me. Can you post a pic of your ignition key? Perhaps this is some kinda "fix it kit" that locksmiths have to prevent them from having to buy a customer a new column after it has been raped in a theft or whatever. I'm intrigued!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the replies. Now you see the source of my confusion.

I can't say for sure the source of the shield. I bought the car in 96 so it had to be installed before that.

Can you post a pic of your ignition key?
I'll do that if i get a chance. I have two keys for the car and i noticed for the first time they are slightly different. I am intrigued also.

I guess I'll have to consult my mechanic and/or the dealership to find out what that thing is and if it's what's keeping my lock cylinder in place and whether it can be removed.
 

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You might have to have a locksmith drill that thing out. The plastic ears didn't show up until the 97 model year so yours is totally not correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Found this link today:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1149303-1996-97-8-cut-locks.html

This pretty much describes my situation. Seems the lock cylinder should come out once the hole is drilled in the shield. So has anyone seen a situation where the steering wheel lock mechanism has crapped out and the lock cylinder won't come out? I don't want to try drilling it out and still not be able to get it out.
 

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I don't want to try drilling it out and still not be able to get it out.
It's not functioning now, so why hesitate drilling it out?

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable..
2. Remove steering wheel..
3. Using channel-lock pliers or vise-grip-type pliers, twist ignition switch cap or bezel until it separates from ignition switch lock cylinder..
4. Using a 3/8-inch diameter drill, drill down middle of key slot approximately 44 mm (1-3/4 inch)..
....Until ignition switch lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of ignition switch lock cylinder..
5. Remove lock cylinder, and drill shavings from steering column tube flange..
6. Remove steering column upper bearing retainer, steering column lock housing bearing, ignition switch lock cylinder, and steering column lock gear..
7. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings, and other foreign materials from casting..
8. Carefully inspect steering column tube flange for damage from the above operation..
....If damage is apparent, steering column tube flange must be replaced..
Drill, baby, drill! :D
 

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I have had to do lots of jiggling and wiggling to get them out but have never been stuck whenever I had a key to remove them with. I have installed tons of these down through the years.

I have only drilled out 1 or 2. They were nightmares and i probably did them wrong ;)
 

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I have had to do lots of jiggling and wiggling to get them out but have never been stuck whenever I had a key to remove them with. I have installed tons of these down through the years.
:thumbsup: Same thing I said in post #2...

I have only drilled out 1 or 2. They were nightmares and i probably did them wrong ;)
I've had to drill out dozens because, as I also said in post #2, usually when I have to change one it's because the keys are GONE..... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's not functioning now, so why hesitate drilling it out?



Drill, baby, drill! :D
Acutally it is operational, it has complete range of motion and I see the ignition acutator moving back and forth so, again, don't know why it won't come out.

Thanks for the advice but it's really not that important. I just needed to remove it so I could work on on the ignition acutators as that was the original problem. The wife and I are planning to buy another car in a few months so if i have to i'll live with it. It just bugs the crap out of me because I can't figure out why it won't come out when everyone says it should just come right out.
 

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No one else here has seen that lock either, I'd bet. :confused:

It's completely different than mine, unless that's just a shell over the original casting; idk.

If those are bolts and or rivets on that shield, that's where I'd start.

Or a get a stock column, since the linkage is already broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
FWIW this project became low priority once we bought another car (2012 Mustang, sweet) so that's the reason for the delay posting. Anyhoo, that cover had to come off to let the cyclinder come out. Had to drill out the two set bolts. Evidently they really didn't want somebody to take that out. Well now the real work begins replacing the actuator linkages.
 
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