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Discussion Starter #1
Here is my dilemma in a nut shell:

(97 with satc)

A year ago I was forced to wiggle the wires going into the blower motor every 2 months. Over time, it needed to be done more often; two weeks ago I was wiggling the wires at stop lights.

When it finally went out completely, I opened the glove box and the wires had come out of the connector into the blower motor, and I saw them spark as they touched.

1. I bought a new wire harness (controller to blower motor)
====> still not working
2. I checked the "hidden" fuse on the side under the dash
====> not blown
3. I looked at #17 under the hood
====> looks like the rest of them

Are there other fuses that would have blown?
Since they were so close to the motor, would it just have blown the entire blower motor since they touched and sparked?

SYMPTOMS:
1. Heat trickles through the vents when my satc is turned on.

2. When switching between functions, I hear the hiss between each one.

3. I could be going insane, but I thought I heard a ticking sound coming from behind the glove box when I was checking fuses last night.

Those are the only symptoms I can think of...there are no other problems with my car... OD functions, gauge is ok (unless a flickering LED bulb is a big clue).





Detroit is freezing, and winter semester starts next week; please help.
 

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once again, i say it's the fan controller box thing (yeah thats the technical name) thats attached to the blower via one of the blower screws. those things dont seem to be designed too well and get hot and mlt the wires. at least mine did. and someone had changed it once before me, because the old one was dated in 02 or something.

check that and the blower motor connections and see what you find

edit, heres a thread that may help. the last post show a pic of what i'm talking about
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=103181&highlight=blower
 

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are you thinking of the blower motor resistor? those things like to go bad in any car.. kind of an Achilles heel in the blower system, lol.
 

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the thing w/ the green arrows and circles, lol

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anyway to test?

The ONLY problem with the heat before, was the crappy connections. But now I have replaced the entire harness, so (logically) that should fix it.

Do people have problems with the connections on the MODULE ITSELF, or the wire harness connections? (I've only heard of wire problems, and mine is a brand new harness)
 

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well, mine was crispy where the orange/black wires connect to that box i outlined and also at the blower itself. have you checked those out?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mine were falling out of the crimps on the connectors.
I soldered them as a temporary fix.

It worked great until the orange wire completely came out from the crimps in the connector going into the blower motor.
That's when I bought a brand new harness.

Which is why it doesn't make sense...the ONLY reason my heat had trouble before was because the outer coating on the wires is too damn hard, and the wire strands are thick, and they're forced to make some harsh curves and bends without much room for slack. Which led to the wires finally caming undone from the crimp inside the connector.


In all the searching I've done, I've heard of people having similar symptoms-
i.e.- the heat "trickling" thru the vents.



Seeing as how I don't have a garage, and it was 12* last night, I pulled the codes from the SATC anyway and got "24" and "31".

I do not know if those are reliable seeing as how it was 12*, but I do not have anywhere to put it long enough to reach a decent temperature.


Thank you for your time JCO
 

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hmm, so new wires, new fan motor, and new controller? still not working? try swapping the unit itself

edit: i re-read the OP and seems you didnt get a new fan motor. take the old one out and touch the orange wire to the + post of your battery and the black to the -. that will eliminate the fan motor as the culprit
 

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Yes, try testing the fan motor. Also, you could use a meter and check for voltage at the fan motor connection. This is pulse width modulated (duty cycled) so it may not be a steady voltage, maybe use the peak hold function of your meter if you have it (most of them do) and that will let you know whether or not there is juice coming from the blower motor controller. A simple test light would also do the trick.
 
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