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Discussion Starter #1
Ever since I replaced the front rotors (@151k) I have had a clunk (at random times) in the front end. Well, it has gotten much worse lately(@196k), and the brakes have started to plug to the left. I also just started getting a "grinding" when I was turning at parking lot speeds. It was time for new pads, so I replaced the pads and turned the rotors. The front end noises went away for about a week, until yesterday day. They are all back. Since it was still pulling, I replaced the calipers today. No change today. Same clunking and pulling.

I've had the car to 4 different shops to look for the source of the "clunk". Everyone wasn't able to find anything wrong with it. I was even with them looking at it to, no play or site of worn out bushings. Even today, I checked out the bushings on the anti-sway bar, no movement or signs of wear.

What else I have replaced fairly recently? - Both upper control arms and strut rod bushings both sides.

So with no signs of any bad suspension parts, weird sounds (Clunking and occasional grinding) up front, with all new brakes except lines, and the brakes still pull to the left. What's left to check? The alignment? That wouldn't cause any weird sounds though. Anyway, give me some thoughts.
 

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heh door pins?? :)

weirld i had a `clunk' whenever i went over a bump or applied the brakes, specialy te brakes.. and i even kinda felt it in the brake pedal...

Till one day for some demented reason i decided to apply the brakes with the door open and it went away, shut the door and it came back

Just a weird thought..
 

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frame bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I do need new door pins/bushings. Tell me more about these frame bolts.
 

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I'm in a similar situation. No pulling though. I just changed my calipers, rotors, endlinks, pads, tie rods, lower control arms, upper control arms, strut bushings (all 4), shocks, shock mounts, springs, and the noise is STILL there. I'm getting highly dissappointed and hope that maybe someone could shed some light on our probs. Tomorrow i go in for an alignment after the installation of all that crap. I just hope maybe a bolt is loose or something and they'll tighten it. If not then i'll be posting back on the forums. hehe
 

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I had the brake pull to the left finally fixed last week on my '96 T-bird @ 121K. I also replaced both front calipers (twice in one week), new front brake hoses, turned rotors and still a pull. Tech finally found that the lower ball joint was shot and allowing the spindle to move just enough to turn left. Also replaced the left tension strut bushings which were bad also. Brakes nice and straight now and seems tighter. I had previously changed out both upper control arms w/ ball joints last fall. This eliminated the knocking noise I had and really tightened up the front end feel big time!
 

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I'm going to lean towards ball joints.

Put the car on stands and grab the wheel. Try to move it in all directions. It shouldn't move. If it does, find where the "play" is and go from there.

I had a clunking in my front end from 146K miles to 265K miles and had a total of 8 shops look at it (3 dealerships and 5 shops). They "could never find anything wrong".

I put it on a lift and could move the tire up and inward 1/4" (1/8" on the passenger side)!!! The upper ball joints were shot. I HATE SHOPS!!! :mad:

When I replaced the A-arms a few weekends ago, I could hold the old A-arm, and hit the ball joint stud and it would swing back and forth a few times like a pendulum!!! It was that worn out! :beek:

As far as the brakes pulling, are you also replacing the slider pins/bushings and boots and lubing then well?

Just my .02. :thumbsup:
 

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94 Daily Driven 4.6L said:
I'm going to lean towards ball joints.

Put the car on stands and grab the wheel. Try to move it in all directions. It shouldn't move. If it does, find where the "play" is and go from there.
In my experience, you can't always get the ball joints to move by hand, especially the lower. Another way is to get the wheels about 3 inches off the ground, get a 3 or 4 foot crowbar (or similar) and put one end under the wheel and push up on the other end.

Just a thought,
Michael
 

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Maybe front hub bearings?
 

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try the frame bolts !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I replaced the outer tie rod end on the drivers side and it seems much better, but it still making some noises. I'll try to get the lower ball joint to move, but I don't think my problem is that there is too much play in it, I think its that it's starting to lock up. At least that what this mechanic that I trust thought.
 

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I would guess sway bar links or tierods.
 

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turbospeed said:
try the frame bolts !!!
I'm curious...would you mind shedding some light on this for those of us who don't know what to look for? If you can supply a part number, or photograph of what to look at, it would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks!
 

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theyre the subframe bolts there are two in each side of the car (front) ,they hold the body/subframe together, someitmes when they get lose the body is hitting againstthe subframe , thus making the clunk.

you only have to tighten them , look at the underside of you car thyre 2 18mm bolts .
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think I know what you are talking about, I'll try to take a picture of what I think you are talking about. I'll try to post it tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I made a whole web page about my suspension problem, including some picutres of what I think the frame bolts are. Anyway, here it is
 

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Your webpage said your suspension makes an "old metal creaking/popping noise"? That (in my experience) is a warning from your ball joints, usually the lowers. My bird made those noises once, and she was telling me there was trouble with the balljoints. I ignored her, and sure enough, one let go.

I've never heard of balljoints "locking up". They're a load-bearing moving part, and get looser with time, not tighter. The lower suspension on our cars was designed by an idiot. Examine the forces sometime; the system tries to pull the joint apart.

I'm replacing the driver's side lower balljoint in a few hours, so pm me if you've got any questions. I did the uppers last night, and the strut assemblies too.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I know this is a old thread that I started, but it was the lower ball joint that was causing the problems.

Now the other side is just now starting to do the same thing so I guess it is time to replace it.
 

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im guessing wheel bearings jack up the car and grab the tire at 6 and 12 and see if any play and check to see if the spindle is moving if the tire has play yet the spindle dosent move its most likely wheel bearings. I dont even know how the wheel bearings are set up on the mn12s but ive had a bearing go out on trucks ive had with the same symptoms your describing. is the front end squirly at all?

clunking grinding and pulling is ussually the common bearing sounds that start out with a slight noise coming and going
 
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