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Discussion Starter #1
what can happen from plugs incorrectly gapped?

I ask because I just replaced my spark plugs, and they were already gapped to 0.040, but ford says to use 0.054, I just left them 0.040.

Any issues that can arise from this gap difference?
 

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What plugs did you use?
 

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There is no way you should depend on the factory to gap your plugs. Think about how many different cars the plugs you bought may fit. Also, think about what has happened to those plugs in transit since they were manufactured, boxed, shipped (at least two diffefent times), and then handled how many times at the sellers store. I'd bet that you didnt use anti sieze on the threads and dilectric grease on the wire connectors. If you dont have the time to do it right, why do you have the time to do it twice???? You are either lazy or (well you finish the sentence).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There is no way you should depend on the factory to gap your plugs. Think about how many different cars the plugs you bought may fit. Also, think about what has happened to those plugs in transit since they were manufactured, boxed, shipped (at least two diffefent times), and then handled how many times at the sellers store. I'd bet that you didnt use anti sieze on the threads and dilectric grease on the wire connectors. If you dont have the time to do it right, why do you have the time to do it twice???? You are either lazy or (well you finish the sentence).
was there that much of a need to be rude? ya I was lazy, that it's right there.

I used champion copper plugs, don't have the number on hand, and I didn't put anti seize on the threads...... I didn't put it on there because the motorcraft plugs I pulled out didn't have it on them, nor were they seized.

btw, they were all gapped the same, so it wasn't like they were damaged or bent or didn't all have the same gap.

master: thanks for the actual answer, I appreciate that. Looks like I'm gonna spend another 30 mins this weekend gapping my plugs.
 

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Now that you bring it up, I was too owly, sorry. I have owned a myriad of Mark VIII's with the DOHC aluminum heads, and you have never heard someone cry til you listen to the horror stories from some guy that was changing plugs and screwed the head threads out with the plug! Its not an easy fix, and not too reliable either. Dont the SOHC 4.6's have aluminum heads too?? And if you had an SC or an early XR7, nearly nobody changes a set of plugs in 30 minutes. BTW, I have also owned and worked on 7 SC's since 91'.
 

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How do you know the plugs you took out didn't have anti-seize on them? I always use it, and have yet to see evidence of it when taking the old plugs out.

The 4.6 is one of the easiest engines I have ever seen to change the plugs in, but still no need to do them more than needed. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got those plugs out and new ones in about 30 mins....roughly.
I don't think this has aluminum heads, and my threads were fine, I'm actually certain it has regular steel heads.


Here's one I'm curious about, when you change or gap plugs, is there any need to disconnect the battery and let the computer relearn fuel trims and stuff again?

When I removed my old plugs they were in "normal" wear condition, but def hadn't been changed in a while. So I figured fuel ratios might change, and went through the whole procedure of resetting the computer and letting it run in idle for 15 mins AC off, 15 mins AC on, and again in gear, 15 mins AC on, and 15 mins AC off.

Weather or not it was necessary I did it, because it was probably needed at this point, i'm just wondering if gapping the plugs would have any effect that requires me to allow the computer to relearn fuel ratios again
 

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If it is a 4.6L, it has aluminum heads. :thumbsup:

As for the plug gap, IMHO a difference of .014 is not going to make a noticeable difference in a daily driver. The ignition systems on the 4.6L's are excellent so I wouldn’t worry about it.

Yes, you may see some difference on a dyno, but SOTP, I doubt it.

But you should have used anti-seize (most) anytime you are working with dissimilar metals.

But just my .02. :thumbsup:
 

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Your motor has aluminum heads. Antiseize is a good thing. Changing your plugs does not in itself merit a 'reset' of the computer.
 

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I don't think this has aluminum heads, and my threads were fine, I'm actually certain it has regular steel heads.
wow, I had no idea the situation was this serious.....you need to spend a few hours reading some of the sticky's at the top of the 4.6 forum, as well as searching google til your fingers fall off your hands...you're not quite ready to be modifying a 4.6, let alone posting these kinds of topics in the 4.6 engine tech forum
 

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Discussion Starter #13
wow, I had no idea the situation was this serious.....you need to spend a few hours reading some of the sticky's at the top of the 4.6 forum, as well as searching google til your fingers fall off your hands...you're not quite ready to be modifying a 4.6, let alone posting these kinds of topics in the 4.6 engine tech forum
ummmmm.... I didn't know spark plugs were such a huge deal.

I've read tons, obviously gotten some info mixed up, I did think I had steel heads.

I think I might actually pull them out this weekend, gap them, add antiseize and torque them to the proper spec.

still, what's with people being so harsh around here?
 

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We're just tired of people not doing their homework before asking some pretty simple questions that have already been answered many times in many places here either in the technical articles (There's a link to them on the home page of this site) or in the stickies at the top of every section; and if that fails there's always. :search: Yes, search. Not just here but also on the search engine of your choice!

If, after doing all of that research you still can't find the answer to your question then pose your question in a thread that might closely relate to your query before starting a new thread.

I honestly don't believe you've read "Tons" or you would have known that these engines have iron (aka steel) blocks and aluminum heads and the need for properly gapping your plugs.

I found the following after entering "properly gapping plugs" into Google.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug#Spark_plug_gap (Section 2.2)

It's so easy a Caveman (or in this case a Trunk Monkey) can do it.
 

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On the brand of plug, I have heard that it's best to use Autolite Double Platinum or Motorcraft DP (same plug, different name), bosch (I think on that one, not sure, have heard that some cause issues) and NGK. Copper plugs transfer energy better, but won't last nearly as long.
 

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still, what's with people being so harsh around here?

well posting in the wrong forums will clutter them up, so when someone is told to search, many irrelevant threads may come up and thus discourage the new forum user from searching anymore....and spark plugs (in general) are certainly not specific to the 4.6/5.4 modular engine

as for being "harsh", it's more about being 'firm' as to what goes where....if it wasnt for tccoa i wouldn't know 90% of what I do about my car...and lately, as in the last few years, there's been an ever-increasing "wave" of new users that can't spell, type horribly incomprehensible garbage with ludicrous internet lingo/slang, dont wanna search, yet they still wanna be helped out with their pipe-dream goals and aspirations
 

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On the brand of plug, I have heard that it's best to use Autolite Double Platinum or Motorcraft DP (same plug, different name), bosch (I think on that one, not sure, have heard that some cause issues) and NGK. Copper plugs transfer energy better, but won't last nearly as long.
some people say that their mn12s wont run that well on bosch....i personally can't say since i never ran bosch's in mine.....but yes the rest of your info is pretty much accurate.....and also dont forget that its usually the copper plugs that are available in a wide-variety of 'heat ranges'; the cooler heat ranges being the ones that allow more timing advance in the eec's tune
 

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Any plug that has a skinny center electrode will wear out four of them in around 10k miles, due to the way our ignitions work; that's why the Bosch plugs don't last.

The center electrode on mine were worn below the ceramic, lol, and still mostly firing.

BigJohnny, the worst thing about our heads is that there are 3 threads in the head some years. I'm pretty sure that includes my 96es... but does not include the dohc motors.

These cars sometimes blow plugs out after a plug change, due to damage. :)

That is why everyone is telling you to use antisieze. I use it on everything I take off except suspension and brake parts. (which get covered in loctite.)

Coating the plugs and boots with dielectric grease will make your plug wires last longer; it's much cheaper in the long run. And it helps with a blown intake gasket, lol.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
We're just tired of people not doing their homework before asking some pretty simple questions that have already been answered many times in many places here either in the technical articles (There's a link to them on the home page of this site) or in the stickies at the top of every section; and if that fails there's always. :search: Yes, search. Not just here but also on the search engine of your choice!

If, after doing all of that research you still can't find the answer to your question then pose your question in a thread that might closely relate to your query before starting a new thread.

I honestly don't believe you've read "Tons" or you would have known that these engines have iron (aka steel) blocks and aluminum heads and the need for properly gapping your plugs.

I found the following after entering "properly gapping plugs" into Google.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug#Spark_plug_gap (Section 2.2)

It's so easy a Caveman (or in this case a Trunk Monkey) can do it.
I hope the cavemen don't see this, they got pretty upset with those geico commercials.....

in my defense, I didn't mean to put it in the 4.6 forum, I was reading something in there, then left the computer, when I came back, I forgot I was in 4.6 and posted thinking I was in general tech.... I know plugs apply to more than 4.6's

On the brand of plug, I have heard that it's best to use Autolite Double Platinum or Motorcraft DP (same plug, different name), bosch (I think on that one, not sure, have heard that some cause issues) and NGK. Copper plugs transfer energy better, but won't last nearly as long.
I'm not worried about longevity here, I just needed to replace them, When I get some cash next, I'm going to get some top shelf plugs.

well posting in the wrong forums will clutter them up, so when someone is told to search, many irrelevant threads may come up and thus discourage the new forum user from searching anymore....and spark plugs (in general) are certainly not specific to the 4.6/5.4 modular engine

as for being "harsh", it's more about being 'firm' as to what goes where....if it wasnt for tccoa i wouldn't know 90% of what I do about my car...and lately, as in the last few years, there's been an ever-increasing "wave" of new users that can't spell, type horribly incomprehensible garbage with ludicrous internet lingo/slang, dont wanna search, yet they still wanna be helped out with their pipe-dream goals and aspirations
Don't think I disagree with you, I can't stand those idiots posting in their freakin' txt language. I do search and I do read lots, sometimes bits and pieces of things I've read slip into the back of my memory or get mixed up with something similar I've read. So I have to apologize for that, but I certainly accept corrections and constructive criticism. and sometimes I simply can't find the right combination of search terms.

Any plug that has a skinny center electrode will wear out four of them in around 10k miles, due to the way our ignitions work; that's why the Bosch plugs don't last.

The center electrode on mine were worn below the ceramic, lol, and still mostly firing.

BigJohnny, the worst thing about our heads is that there are 3 threads in the head some years. I'm pretty sure that includes my 96es... but does not include the dohc motors.

These cars sometimes blow plugs out after a plug change, due to damage. :)

That is why everyone is telling you to use antisieze. I use it on everything I take off except suspension and brake parts. (which get covered in loctite.)

Coating the plugs and boots with dielectric grease will make your plug wires last longer; it's much cheaper in the long run. And it helps with a blown intake gasket, lol.

Good luck!
what do you mean by 3 threads?

I must have pulled it off correctly, because everything came out nicely, even the ones that were really tight, and every plug screwed in hand tight before I cranked them on with the ratchet. She's been opened up wide, and I haven't blown any plugs, so that much is good anyway.

Like I said, this weekend, armed with this new information, I'm gonna pull them again, gap them, anti-seize them, and torque them to spec if I can get the torque wrench in there.

The last thing I want to do is screw the plugs/heads up, my cars engine is in such good shape aside from a few minor things and MAYBE piston rings/valve seals from age.
 
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