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Discussion Starter #1
so does this make a huge difference on the mod motors outside of ensuring everything is opening and closing when it should be ??? i know it made some small differences on the old school ohv small and big blocks from my past , not much at all in my flatheads , but no clue here . any noticeable power gains in torque or horsepower ?? just rying to be sure before i go do some things . this car is on a TIGHT BUDGET so i don't wanna do as i have with some others and throw money at it just cause it sounds cool or promising . and since i've not really played with the mods before i'll ask those of you in the know . and yes i tried the search didna come up with anything definitive .
 

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Well, you can look at it this way.

On the OHV engines you are talking about that it made a difference on, there was only one cam and that cam had the intake and exhaust timing in synch for all cylinders. That can be good and bad. If it was reasonably close, then not so bad. Far enough off, and really not so good.

On the SOHC there are 2 cams and each have the intake and exhaust timing in synch for their bank. You can have the same good or bad error for each one individually and then add to it that you really need to have those 2 cams in synch with each other as well. The good being that if only one cam is off enough to matter that it will only affect half the cylinders and not so much the others. The bad being that if one or both is far enough out, particularly if they are out in different directions, things can be worse because the might fight each other.

Then there are the DOHC's...

So, the answer is that it depends. And, just like with the old stuff, you won't know until you check them and do it.

Wish I had a better answer than that, but it is what it is. It's not going to be easy to find a definitive answer about something that is so relative to the individual situation like this.

Darrin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
welp i geuss i'll just jump off the cliff and hope it isn't a very long fall then !!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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To get the most power output from the parts you have, any engine should have its cam set to spec with a degree wheel. I am not saying it wont work buy just putting it in and hope for the best with the timing marks. But to get the best power you can get from it you should degree it. It is also good to check valve to piston clearance.
 

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if you're on a tight budget, forget about it....just time the cams properly and that'll be that....the keyways on the cams as well as the cam gear keyways will all have slack that might cost a few HP, but unless you are building an engine to use for a dragstrip car, degreeing will not have a huge effect, especially with small cams.....sure you'll be down a few HP, but that is the price you have to "pay" for being on a tight budget....now if you're using BIG cams, then degree'ing and tight-budget do not go in the same sentence
 

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Before removing the cams on my 96 4.6, I checked the valve timing and found the intake centerlines at 111 and 112. Stock is supposed to be 114. So this was not bad at all, but you can find wide variance in factory engines.

Mitch
 

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Having the two banks synchronized to each other is required for maximum engine efficiency.

But like Darrin said, you won't know until you check them.

My stock '03 4V was at least 4 degrees off from factory.

YMMV
 

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Before removing the cams on my 96 4.6, I checked the valve timing and found the intake centerlines at 111 and 112. Stock is supposed to be 114. So this was not bad at all, but you can find wide variance in factory engines.

Mitch
I do remember that the lobe separation angle is supposed to be 114°, but they are supposed to be ground 2° advanced from the factory, hence the intake center lines you found
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hmmm again more useful info !!!!! thanx guys . and yeah on the ohv's we did it didnt amount to a hill of beans as far as output etc. like everyone claims , but the claimer motors in the dirt cars with the roller cams it helped quite a bit , learned the hard way by just sticking one in and it bounced the valves off the top of a couple of pistons ..ooooooppppppppsssssss ............:facepalm: once the two oldies decide to stop giving me issues then we can spend some cash , but for now it's on the used or free budget LOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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I remember degreeing a set of VT Stage 1 cams for a guy who put them right back in the motor and called me *****ing that he only gained 10 or 15RWHP from the cam degree only. I want to say his cams were about 3-4 degrees retarded both sides and we corrected it with a set of adjustable crank gears.

If your cams are in a good spot already, then you won't gain anything. I degree about 3-4 sets a week and can't remember the last time I found both cams to even be within 2 degrees of what the cam card stated.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanx nick and you will be hearing from me soon about a set of the used pi's and your indexing service !!!!! as i said mixed results with old stuff in my past , but these are new , the mods , to me and kinda curious as to the effects it had on them .
 
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