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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have a right up on how to remove the inner tie rod on a 94 Mercury Cougar?

The service manual was not real helpful on removing it.
 

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This one is pretty good:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=54936

I have seen people on here that just use adjustable wrenches with no backing wrench. I bought the Harbor Freight tool and used an adustable wrench on the drivers side teeth. Worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, that helps. Autozone has the removal tool and I saw the one from Harbor Freight as well.

This is all my service manual said:

Tie Rod End


Steering Gear Installed


Removal

1. Remove and discard the cotter pin and nut from the worn tie rod end (3A130).

2. Disconnect tie rod end from LH front wheel knuckle (3K185)/RH front wheel knuckle (3K186), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.

3. Holding the tie rod end with a wrench, loosen the tie rod end jam nut.

4. Note the depth to which the tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip the tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers, and remove the tie rod end.


Installation

1. Clean the tie rod end threads.

2. Thread the tie rod end to the same depth as the removed tie rod end.

3. Place the tie rod end into the LH front wheel knuckle/RH front wheel knuckle. Ensure front wheels are in the straight ahead position.

4. Install a new nut on the tie rod end. Tighten the nut to 53 N-m (39 lb-ft), and continue tightening the nut to align the next castellation of the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Install a new cotter pin.

5. Set toe to specification. Refer to «Section 04-00». Tighten the jam nut to 48-68 N-m (35-50 lb-ft).

Really sucks that this is all I could find.

Thanks a million. Showing me this is other forum just saved me a lot of time and hastle.

Someone should make a right up on this for this site! :tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Something I am wondering about is when removing the tie rod (last stage) it is said to hold the rack while turning the tie rod:

"USE A WRENCH ON THE RACK TEETH (FLAT) TO RESIST RACK ROTATION AND PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE PINION DURING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION."

I can't seem to get a visual around this. Can one of you guys help to get my head wrapped around what I am supposed to be doing here? Are the teeth actully protruding out from the rack housing enough to put an open end wrench on it? I understand the part about turning the wheel all the way to one side, but the gear actully protudes out?

Thanks.
 

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i didnt use a wrench to resist torquing the rack but the best way to find out where to put the wrench is to get under the car with a wrench. Like i said though, I replaced the inner and outer tie rods on my car using mainly a big adjustable wrench.
 

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the tool that slips over the whole thing and connects at the base is a BIG help for this. the one i have took a rachet in the end to turn it. we had the entire front end apart already, so it was pretty easy. good luck man!
 

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If it's an after market sometimes they put a set screw instead of a pin. It'a an alan style
 

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When you have the drivers side boot off you may need to turn the steering wheel to the left to see the teeth on the drivers side.

Since I was working alone I put the big adjustable on the outer teeth in a position where the end of the wrench could rest against the car and duck taped it in place. I then put a floor jack up against the other side of the wrench handle with light pressure to hold it in place. the torque removing the drivers side will push against the jack.

I had the rivets in my original and replacement. I used a small screwdriver worked around the bottom of the rivet to lift it up then used diagonal cutters to pull the pin up. One side the pin broke off which did not really hurt anything, it was just had to put more leverage on the tool to get the tierod loose.

I used radiator hose clamps on the larger end of the boot when replacing. The smaller clamps can be reused.

I tried using another adjustable wrench to turn the tie rod loose, but no luck. I just got the Harbor Freight tool with a 20% off coupon in the back of most car magazines. The tool worked great, just had to remove the brakes to get a good angle on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When you have the drivers side boot off you may need to turn the steering wheel to the left to see the teeth on the drivers side. .
Mine is the right side, the passenger side and there is nothing to grap onto. There is just the cylinder from the rack.

The new one has the alan wrench pins and the OEM has two pins.

Still plugging away...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does this mean that when I did mine they actually didn't give me an issue? Mine took thirty min tops after the car was up and wheels off.
You are the gifted one Grasshopper....
 

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Mine is the right side, the passenger side and there is nothing to grap onto. There is just the cylinder from the rack.

The new one has the alan wrench pins and the OEM has two pins.

Still plugging away...
You can only get teeth on the drivers side. If you are only doing the right side, you can not use a backing wrench unless you pull the boot on the drivers side.

On my car both sides were worn the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, its done. Here is the stiffy on it.

I did pull the boot on the right side to get a wrench on the teeth so I could remove the right side inner tie rod.



Here is what my old one looked like. *Notice it does not stay in a straight position but is rather loose and just dangles there. The new one was hard to move around. Nice and tight like it should be.



The drivers side seemed to be okay. This explains the drifting, lack of any mechanic being able to align the front end that pesky clunking noise I kept hearing when I took turns or hit bumps.

Thanks all for making this a success.

Regards,
Brad
 

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Nice. :)

Both of mine dangled like yours. A real big difference driving it when they are new. Didn't notice it so much over the years.

Wrench looks just how I had mine. Better to be safe than have to replace the rack.
 

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Did they change the design from the 93-95 to the 96-97? My 97 looks nothing like that.

It took me half an hour per side to do mine in my driveway, I had to replace the drivers side when the car fell off the jack as I was placing it on the jack stand and the inner tie rod landed on the jack stand, and as I was replacing the upper control arms, I noticed the passenger side was bent to heck, so I replaced it this weekend too. For me, the hardest part is threading the inner tie rod onto the steering rack, since the new ones are stiff, it's hard to get enough clearance to thread it, but persistence is the key it seems.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
... it's hard to get enough clearance to thread it, but persistence is the key it seems.
I turned the wheels from left to right and back to make room to work on the inner tie rods. Otherwise, you drive yourself nuts trying to get things to fit or to get wrenches and the like in tight areas.

Don't know about the changes of the rods, maybe it was just the maker was different.

The one that came off is different than the one I bought.

 

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Did they change the design from the 93-95 to the 96-97? My 97 looks nothing like that.

For me, the hardest part is threading the inner tie rod onto the steering rack, since the new ones are stiff, it's hard to get enough clearance to thread it, but persistence is the key it seems.
My 95 looked like the picture with only one hole for the rivet.

I packed grease around the joint and worked it back and forth a little so it would move easier. Was pretty easy to thread on that way.
 

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My 95 looked like the picture with only one hole for the rivet.

I packed grease around the joint and worked it back and forth a little so it would move easier. Was pretty easy to thread on that way.
That's what I ended up doing as well. Was MUCH easier than the upper control arm on the passenger side. I didn't even have enough clearance to get the ratcheting box end in on the firewall side due to the canister positioning.
 
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