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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone give me a quick how to on replacing the inner tie rod on 95 t-bird. Thanks. Going out now to attempt..
 

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Impatient much, are we?

There's always the SEARCH facility, or the even better GOOGLE capability.

Past that, we're not here to serve at your whim. Try giving a little lead time next time, if you want a favor.

RwP
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Can someone give me a quick how to on replacing the inner tie rod on 95 t-bird. Thanks. Going out now to attempt..
Best go check ebay and get yourself a shop manual. Tells you how to do most everything. And you don't have to wait for us to reply.
 

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@ all:
How likely are these to be worn out at 80k miles?

I'm doing a front end job, having replaced the UCA's, have LCA's waiting to be installed, OEM strut bushings on order, will do outer rod ends, probably sway bar links as well.
But I'm wondering if these inner joints tend to wear much.

It seems it may be more of a hassle to replace these than most other front suspension components, having to deal with the steering rack boots and not having proper torque wrench adapter for use with the inner rod nut (could order adapter, but all I can find are box end, no open end ones which I'd rather have).

Still, I'm thinking I should replace all components that relate to alignment all at once, so I'll only have to pay for alignment one time.
 

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My inners went bad before the outers did. Or else they went bad afterwards, and the replacement outers died after that.

Don't skimp on the rack boots.

What !I! am doing on my Malibu with the inner/outer tie rod replacement (replacing both - it's about the same pain to replace either, so why not do both?) is marking the nut, disassembling them putting the nut back, putting the outer back, measuring it, making sure the new pair are the same, marking where the nut is on the new one, disassembling them, installing them, and putting them back the same way.

That way my inside-to-outer-tie-rod-spindle distance should be the same, keeping it close enough to drive to the shop to get it aligned.

That's the plan, anyway.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ralph, chill out i wasnt upset no one replied quick, i was just surprised. There were a lot of people on here ast the time. And i did do a search here and there were no hits. It was no big deal, its done. Except for the allignment. I took it this afternoon and it sucks, pulls worse than after i put the rod on and eye balled it. It pulls to the left now. I'll have to take it in tomorrow again. Another thing, i had new tires put on this morning and no i have what sounds like a tire hum. Maybe they need to be worn in.
 

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Chances are the tire hum is from bad alignment. Whenever you do again count the threads when you take them off and you will be close.
 

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I agree. I had several degrees of negative combined toe on the front end, which was chewing up the insides of my tires (after I put the Wide Ovals on). There was a LOT of road noise from them, most especially under braking. After the alignment, they're considerably quieter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Allignment done, but had to go back a second time because it pulled to left, Seems to be ok now. Hum still there and think it may be bearings but didnt notice the hum before the nwe tires. I'l have to keep an eye on it..
 

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Ok, I've ordered outer and inner rod ends.

Now I'm wondering about the bellows. Upon cursory inspection, with the wheels at either extreme, I didn't notice any cracks or holes in the Ford ones and they seem to have plenty of flexibility/elasticity left in them.

Is it really necessary to replace the bellows as well when I do the inners? If they haven't dried up and cracked by 80k, am I pressing my luck that much to expect them to last past 100k (that's about 4 more years, as this car is driven about 5k per year)?

Fords are 3x the price of Moogs. What kind of luck have you had with Moog, Beck-Arnley or Raybestos bellows?
 

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since we already have the thread going, can someone give details about the inner toe rods before I order them and crawl under there and get started. My odometer quit working at 145,000 and I am sure my car still has the stock inner tie rods. I might as well add them to ,my list of parts to get and do at once.
 

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Moog, TRW, or Motorcraft inner tie rods.

So far I've been VERY displeased with the (lack of) life of Moog bellows, however - I have a pair of ACDelco ordered to see if I can beat 1 year life with them (the Moogs - one set failed within a year, the other within three months. The first set MAY have failed that quickly, don't know.)

Do the bellows also, but I'd have to say pick them up from Ford right now, until we see how the ACDelco and/or the Raybestos Professional Grade last.

No, I'm not trying anything lower - if the MOOGS fail like that, why would I try the cheap chinee crap?

RwP
 
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