Installing a 4.6L 3V in a 97 TBird
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Just ahead of doing the turbo project, I'll be getting things changed over starting with removing the fuel tank, placing a fuel cell in the trunk, install bigger injectors and probably change the stock 3V slot MAF and put in a SCT MAF. I want to do away with the stock fuel tank to make servicing easier like pulling the driveshaft, tranny and rear end. Mainly, I'm doing it because I plan to mount the remote turbo in the cavity where the tank once was.
The tank is large in area but not depth. Would it not be simpler to slice off the spare tire bulge and make the trunk floor one plane?
Seems like about the same amount ofroom under there considering you will have both mufflers deleted anyway.
And you wouldn't have a fuel cell in your trunk.
The tanks are in such an ideal spot.
Keep me posted, like I said I have a vision of dual remote turbos that keeps returning.
I thought of about 7 different positions including in the right engine bay at the air filter/under fender area. My second best position is to put it in the trunks tire well. Make a removable cover over the well and only have the holes in the floor pan for the exhaust and cold pipes. My problem with any trunk or muffler area install is the exhaust, cold pipes and oil line are so long. And all of that has to be fished around the fuel tank which is in the way of anything. I believe there is enough room in the tank cavity for the turbo and the exhaust, (the 3V head pipe hangs down a bit now) cold pipes and oil lines will be much shorter. I've thought about dual turbos as well and there should be room on the right and left of the driveshaft for dual units under that rear seat. What you want to do for positioning sounds fine to me but I think I will to go a different route.
Of course, I was just sharing my thoughts. I don't disagree with your choice.
My original thought was to firewall the trunk and mount the turbos on a sub panel, then install the assembly in the trunk and pipe to it. Kind of a cartridge style.
The tank IS in the way of the shaft, and restricts access to the differential and IRS, and makes the exhaust run difficult, and the cold pipe even more so.
Shorter runs on all the pipes will benefit your application as you say.
Good luck and please share.
My original thought was to firewall the trunk and mount the turbos on a sub panel, then install the assembly in the trunk and pipe to it. Kind of a cartridge style.
The tank IS in the way of the shaft, and restricts access to the differential and IRS, and makes the exhaust run difficult, and the cold pipe even more so.
Shorter runs on all the pipes will benefit your application as you say.
Good luck and please share.
Yea, I haven't ruled out any position just yet. If it wasn't a driver, there are more choices but I plan to keep it as a driver so that tightens up the options. I'm not going to do it but a rear seat delete and enclosing that area opens up a bunch of new possibilities. Really, under the hood in the air filter area would still cause exhaust routing problem but might be the easiest to do. My thing is I want the engine bay to stay just like it is now and the power adder to be somewhat hidden but keep serviceability as good as I can make it. Putting it under the front bumper cover was one of my earlier ideas but of course, a quick look under the bumper and see lots of concerns.
There is one guy on here that did a traditional under hood turbo on a Mark VIII. He did a great job, but I have never been able to connect with him.
I thought about the rear seat area. Since I am adding a six point roll cage in the Spring, I may revisit that again. Once the shoulder bar goes in the main hoop, and the back stays are connected directly above the front IRS mounts, accessibility to the rear seat will be limilimited. I suppose I could firewall the back of the main hoop to seal it off. Lots of room for stuff there without back seats. I totally sacrificed a 60k mile really nice rust free a 97 Mark VIII to optimize the Mercury build...that was a hard thing to do, but I got it so cheap it made great economic sense. I have lots of spare parts now.
I just finished a DOHC engine swap and new CV 1/2 shafts, Hub Assemblies, upper and lower rear control arms, bushings, all new exhaust, and a front and rear brake upgrade. I need to it tuned or figure it out myself.
Last year I did the chassis, steering mods, new rockers, lowered it, new gear set and shaft. J-Mod, forced lube, and a wild converter.
I had already put new coil springs, rear shocks, coilovers, it goes on and on.
I hope to get the cage in to make it to The Maine Event in July. I hope.
Thank you.
It's been a lot of work.
That said, it has been enormously gratfying because every thing I have done was met with amazing improvements.
The car has performed much better than I dared to dream, and it is a blast to drive.
When I learn to not scratch and dent, I will have it painted
It's been a lot of work.
That said, it has been enormously gratfying because every thing I have done was met with amazing improvements.
The car has performed much better than I dared to dream, and it is a blast to drive.
When I learn to not scratch and dent, I will have it painted
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