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Hittin' Switches
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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys.. im gonna install the hood pins tonight in a couple hours when i get off.

Is there anything special i need to do to not let it crack the hood or anything?
also, where does everyone else put the pins? take out the bump stopper things and put them in that hole or drill another?


Matt
 

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I welded nuts right to the radiator support and screwed the pins in with a second nut as a jam nut. For a fiberglass hood, I drilled out small holes in the hood, then used a grinding stone on a dremmel to open them up to the size I wanted. I'll put up some pics tomorrow if I remember.
 

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One thing to remember; mount the pins on the rad support first, then drill holes in the hood in the appropriate spots. Doing it the other way around is a real PITA trying to get it so everything will line up right. It really isn't that complicated. One other method would be to remove the bump stops on the rad support and have plate made of steel with a nut welded to the bottom of that, and rivet the plate to the rad support where the bump stops used to be. This is how mine is done, and I think it's quite a bit stronger than just going through the sheet metal of the rad support. But then again, I don't have any hood latch at all, so the pins are the only thing holding the hood down.

Mike
 

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When you drill into your fiberglass hood make sure you put tape on the hood where you’re going to drill your holes this will help chipping out the paint also start with a small drill and work your way up. I would leave the rubber hood adjusters and put the pin 1 inch on the outside of the adjusters. I also have a fiberglass hood and I'm using the stock hood latch, hood supports, and the hood pins.
 

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Hittin' Switches
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
rjstat said:
When you drill into your fiberglass hood make sure you put tape on the hood where you’re going to drill your holes this will help chipping out the paint also start with a small drill and work your way up. I would leave the rubber hood adjusters and put the pin 1 inch on the outside of the adjusters. I also have a fiberglass hood and I'm using the stock hood latch, hood supports, and the hood pins.

im doing this right now as we speak, so if any of you are on please respond...


Where are you guys mounting the pole part? on the radiator support you cant feel to the under side of it, its like its boxed in kinda... take a look at theese pics and youll see what im talkin about, wheres the best spot to put the hood pins?








on this last picture, see what im talkin about how you cant get to the underside of the radiator support? what am i doing wrong?

please excuse the poor quality and dirty engine bay, its normally alot cleaner i promise.

heres a picture of what i was talking about that the guys at dealership broke more than it was already., it was chipped some but it wasnt cracked, now its cracked and wont shut all the way, so here go the hood pins.....
 

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i put mine right next to the bump stops.I just cut a window in the rad support to acces the nuts with my dremel tool. go to streetsouremag and look at my pics my screen name is mys10slams on there
 

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My shock (pun intended) and level of awe have reached a new plateau. Congratulations. You are looking at the rear shock absorber, somehow detached at the lower mount but firmly attached to the hacked, ripped, deformed, spindled, mangled and mutilated remains of not only the upper rear shock attachment point but of the surrounding reinforcement.

The structure of the car is failing. You need to either have a competent car builder / shop look at the car or run away from it. That failure is a disaster and may be indicative of other pending issues. Seriously bad stuff is going on in your car. That type of failure originating as a result of an engineering/design flaw from the past suspension modifications or as a result of age and abuse don’t matter at the end of the day.
 

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The Parts Guy
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Wow. I agree with tbirdbrain, it's time to seriously evaluate whether or not it's worth sticking more $$ in that car.

From what I can see in the pictures, it looks as though that area had been weakened before failing. Either way, I hope you're not driving the car in that condition.

And I'm guessing that car used to be painted red.

-Rod
 

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Dim Bulb
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Hmm, if memory serves, don't you have hydraulics on the car musto?
 

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Dim Bulb
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Spot? Did his frame ding your driveway or did it piddle?
 

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Hittin' Switches
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Discussion Starter #15
Falcon5783 said:
Spot? Did his frame ding your driveway or did it piddle?
probably an oil leak, my driveway is filled with them unfortunately...


im about to link another post about the shocks and hydraulics to this post...

I think this is bad news.

Yes i have driven the car twice since i got it back after a 14 week stay at a shop for a fuel pump... no lie i probably have driven this car less than 15 times total.

the ride seems bumpier, but other than that it seems fine to me... but i dont know, why do i have a shock absorber anyway? i thought the hydraulic cylinder was the shock absorber....?
 

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The Parts Guy
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musto said:
why do i have a shock absorber anyway? i thought the hydraulic cylinder was the shock absorber....?
musto said:
the ride seems bumpier
That right there, plus the fact that the shock mount failed, tells you that the shock absorber was "being used" by the car. You need shock absorbers.

-Rod
 

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musto said:
probably an oil leak, my driveway is filled with them unfortunately...


im about to link another post about the shocks and hydraulics to this post...

I think this is bad news.

Yes i have driven the car twice since i got it back after a 14 week stay at a shop for a fuel pump... no lie i probably have driven this car less than 15 times total.

the ride seems bumpier, but other than that it seems fine to me... but i dont know, why do i have a shock absorber anyway? i thought the hydraulic cylinder was the shock absorber....?
it wasnt a leak..more like a surge.

the shock acts to maintain stability onto the lower control arm. The hydraulics are like springs, they act to support the car. Im sorry to say, but what I said earlier about your car is true, there are many problems with the car that have been handed down by David to Joe and now to you. I would seriously consider parting out that car because have a COMPETANT car builder do his thing will cost you alot more than you want to think about. The structural rigidity of your car is scarily weak and you need to not DRIVE IT AT ALL.
 

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musto said:
Yes i have driven the car twice since i got it back after a 14 week stay at a shop for a fuel pump...
no lie i probably have driven this car less than 15 times total.
I used to dream about this TBird-- Now i drive it.
Sounds to me like you're still "dreaming" about driving it.

Ahh ... To dream the impossible dream, To fight the unbeatable foe, To right the unrightable wrong ...​
 
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