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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hiya folks,

Well, the infamous plastic manifold finally split on me a couple of weeks ago. Campaign 97M91 covers the car, or so I thought. Turns out that the campaign expires 7 years from the original warranty date. On the TBird, that's September 27, 2004. That's right. Less than a month before my issue. A couple of phone calls to Ford, and I was basically told, "No." (Think the Capital One commercial with David Spade).

Soo, I am off to get an new intake manifold and fix 'er up. I began the swap yesterday, and let me tell you, this sh$t sucks!!! There must be 30 connectors, sensors, plugs, wires, etc. The harness is HUGE and completely wraps around AND UNDER the throttle body and intake plenum. After about 3 hours, I got the old intake off, swapped the injectors and fuel rails over to the new one, and the new one torqued down. I still have to hook everthing back up, so pray that my car starts this afternoon.

Having the '68 really makes me appreciate how simple and effective cars used to be. Mind you, the Thunderbird is vastly superior to the '68 in comfort, braking, handling, fuel economy, maybe even acceleration in this case. But, damn, can't they make the motor a bit easier to work on. Jeez.... :2huh:
 

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hell the intake was the easiest thing when i did my headswap.. i kinda enjoyed it.. took me probally 10mins max to take it off and another 10 to put it back on... peice of cake ;)
 

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you cant whine about anything but the cost on a 4.6 , i just changed my 5.0's and it turned into nightmare!
 

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I hope you bought the PI with the updated crossover? If you spend money might as well spend it to make alil extra go.:D I used to do them in 35-45 mins ... but i worked at a dealership and had many to play on. First one took about 50 mins. Just make sure you have everything connected and double check if anything seems to be running bad. Need any more details im sure you know what to do.
 

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i agree, mine as well modify to put the pi intake on. I bet the pi intake costs less than the npi one now.

JH
 

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well, with my F-150 manifold , I figure about 4 hrs on, 4hrs off, that is if everything goes OK, but seldom does , and that includes removeing the basket of snakes blower induction piping, but with an aluminum upper/ runners, I wont have to do it too many times:D
 

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4 hours to take it off?

I did my whole PI intake swap in 4 hours - including changing the coolant tube in the valley, R&R the water pump, swapping the injectors over, and replacing one of the heater core hoses. Maybe next time I'll stop BSing with Eddie and see how fast I really can do it...
 

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Hey! I'm getting old, and the F-150 comes apart differently, plus I like to be meticiulous, so I dont end up with a lotta xtra partz:D
 

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BEFORE READING: just my $.02!

Older engines suck to work on! (they should all be dumped on the bottom of the sea) There is absolutely anothing worse than trying to work on an old turd 5.0 and break and then hopefully easy out all the bolts, have to scrape and buff every damn gasket surface and HOPE beyond all hope that when you are done it doesn't leak so you don't have to go through that hell again.

Example 1: Water pumps. It takes FOREVER to change a water pump on a 5L, if you don't break any bolts. Oh and you will break bolts. IF you are real lucky it won't be the studs that run through the timing cover to the block (what the F-in H-E-double toothpicks were they thinking when they designed that stupid...?!?!?!) Note to self: take ten deep breaths.... Modulars have 4 bolts on the pulley and four on the pump. takes literally 10 minutes to change out and another 5 or so to burp the system.

Example 2: Spark plugs. No contest here. modulars: on top, easy access. 5 point slows, on the side, wires stuck on, air injection tubes all over and in the way. And usually flamin hot when I have to work on them.

Example 3: Intakes. You have to clean the holy hell out of the gasket surfaces on the older engine, and usually only have to wipe down the sealing surfaces on the modular with a rag. PLUS on the five-point-slow, you have to change the oil and pray that all the coolant and debris comes out with the oil.

Example 4: Carbs. They suck sh!t, plain and simple. If I can't plug an NGS into it, I won't touch it. Luckily I have an old guy (48) at work I can palm off all the carb work on.

Again this is my OPINION, as I started turning wrenches in 1993, and never had to deal with much old junk. What little I have, I usually hate. Much the same as the older set of guys around here cuss electronics and injection. It boils down to what you learned on. I cut my teeth on modular engines, EEC IV and V, but I stumble and wet myself when it comes to distributor points.
 

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i too learned on newer engines including the mods. BUT i will ALWAYS take a pushrod over a ohc engine. the 5.0 was a wonderful engine and has been arond since '65 . carbs are what i learned on. and will always prefer. electronics DOESNT mean its better!
 

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There seems to be a huge time difference in manifold swapping.
Can someone that can do this in 45 minutes please explain the procedure with short cuts in detail?
I have 106,000 miles and just know soon I'll have to do this to my 97 4.6.
I'd like to be prepared as much as possible for this swap.
Thanks.
Danford1
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, she is finally done. About 5 hours over 3 days. No leftover parts! :uppoint:

I went with the updated NPI intake. I didn't see any point in going with a PI intake and working out the associated hassles. I plan on either SVO heads and intake or an AED kit in March, anyways. So, the direct fit was a better option. For those who are interested, the intake kit cost me $471 with my local Mustang's club discount.
 

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Should have done the PI intake, there is no hassle, just a little bit of RTV here and there. People freak way too much about the mismatch. JL has been running the PI intake for a long time. I ran the PI intake without any problems for awhile as well. It's really not that hard.

But whatever works I guess.

The high-rpm power increase from the PI intake is a nice touch. Just my opinion though.
 

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danford1 said:
There seems to be a huge time difference in manifold swapping.
Can someone that can do this in 45 minutes please explain the procedure with short cuts in detail?
I have 106,000 miles and just know soon I'll have to do this to my 97 4.6.
I'd like to be prepared as much as possible for this swap.
Thanks.
Danford1
he's talking about a simple, identical intake swap (NPI->NPI, or PI->PI), which can be done in 45 min, because all it entails is unbolting/bolting.......now to go from NPI to PI, well expect a bit longer on that

if you wanna do the PI intake swap, search for this (here and on modular depot):

*PI* AND intake or *PI* AND intake AND swap

and select "Search Titles Only" to first generate the most relevant hits......then after you read that, you can "Search entire posts" to see what other threads pop up containing info as well
 

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Mine is pure stock. I'm interested in the procedure details from stock to stock replacement in 45 minutes.
That's only one hour shop labor, heck, I would just pay someone the $60 for the hours time ! It would save me the grief of doing it...

Danford1
 

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danford1 said:
Mine is pure stock. I'm interested in the procedure details from stock to stock replacement in 45 minutes.
That's only one hour shop labor, heck, I would just pay someone the $60 for the hours time ! It would save me the grief of doing it...

Danford1
I can do it in about an hour. If you've done it before, that is what it takes, if you are new at it, it takes longer becuase you don't know where everything is.
 

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danford1 said:
Mine is pure stock. I'm interested in the procedure details from stock to stock replacement in 45 minutes.
That's only one hour shop labor, heck, I would just pay someone the $60 for the hours time ! It would save me the grief of doing it...

Danford1
While some of use can do it in 45 mins actual time... dealers have a estimate book with times each job should be completed in. So if the job pays 1.5hrs the you will still pay the 1.5 and not the actual .75hrs .

Air tools and Dewalt electric drill helps get things done quicker too. Knowing which tools are needed and having them readily available will definitely get the times down. Tool list off top of head: flat blade screwdriver, 1/4 air rachet or cordless dewalt drill, 8mm deep or 5/16, 10mm deep, 7/8 open end wrench, 1/4x6 extension, coolant drop pan, 3/8 rachet, 3/8x6 extension, 3/8-10mm socket, pliers, belt removal tool, 3/8 socket or wrench, rags, 1/2 rachet 7/8 dee socket, air blower, motor oil or DC4 SILICONE, carb cleaner, coolant, antiseize, new tstat oring.

Drain coolant
remove intake tube
remove belt
disconnect battery
remove alternator
undo wires to sensors, pull to side AMAP
undo egr tube
undo throttle/cruise cables
undo vacuum lines place on side
remove throttle body at intake
remove spark plug wires, as bundle not individual
remove tstat neck and tstat
remove intake manifold bolts, blow off with air
align manifold side by side ... swap over temp sensors, injectors (use lube on orings to have them seat in new manifold.)
clean head surfaces
use new gaskets
OPPOSITE OF REMOVAL to install until coolant ... feel coolant before putting tstat back in place ... helps purge air.

I know not too in depth but gives general idea of procedure. Not all that complicated ... just the jungle of wires, vacuum lines, and spark plugs wires makes it look intimidating but not at all. If i left anything out its bc i pulled from top of head. Hope this helps.
 

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cracked again

ford replaced at 72k.. now im at 162k cracked on me..


((162k and runs great,,,, really cant complain...))


where can i get a good quality replacement part???????


do it my self or dealer...............????????

trent
 
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