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Greetings,

Here is a question...if you had a grand to spend and you wanted to get the best bang for the buck, which Mod would you invest in first...Intake or Exhaust, and why? Got a Grand to spend and I want to spend it right. I have currentel done all of the listed items below so I am kinda at the cross roads. Thanks.

House
 

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I dont think for a grand your going to improve the intake much (not enough for the PI swap) except mabey a Bullit intake but I dont think the gains are going to be that big.



Karl
 

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MaleWhore
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well, a PI intake only will set you back about 200+/-, depending where and when you get it, and if u install it yourself( even though you have a 94 which might need a few extra goodies ), then you will have about 700 or so left...thats kooks headers right there since you seem to have some exhaust work done..
 

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Lets see, for a grand you could get some '96+ npi heads, pi cams and the pi intake (some nice gains there, around 15+ hp for heads and cams, another 15+ hp for the intake) and still have 300 left over for a better chip or some some exhaust work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would but a NPI bottom is more Blower (future mod) friendly.
 

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MaleWhore
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since you are planning a blower, save your money for that and do everything at once, or work on the exhaust now...
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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Intake. The engine can't pull in the air as effectively as it can pump out the exhaust.

If I were you, I'd go for what whitebird101 said. His esamite is right, and 300 for exhuast should get you a dual exhuast from the primary cats back.
 

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I agree with smokymance, but take a look at this page for a PI topend.

http://www.karkraft.com/modular_parts.htm

With the compression increase and better flow, of course all the assundry items you need to get the wiring and linkages to work right, some headers, and a decent tune you cold be doing something like Johnny Langton. Who has run 12's NA.
300 hp at the motor. Not bad really. With your gears and all it would rock on the street. You could easily be in the 13's.

rm
 

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RichardM said:
I agree with smokymance, but take a look at this page for a PI topend.

http://www.karkraft.com/modular_parts.htm

With the compression increase and better flow, of course all the assundry items you need to get the wiring and linkages to work right, some headers, and a decent tune you cold be doing something like Johnny Langton. Who has run 12's NA.
300 hp at the motor. Not bad really. With your gears and all it would rock on the street. You could easily be in the 13's.

rm
dude is that legit? if thats the case i could do the pi swap next month. are these guys reputable? i have several friends who have already said they would help. thats a damn good deal if its true and these guys can be trusted. let me know fellas. man i am gonna pee my pants.:ztoohot: :ztoohot: :ztoohot:
 

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It is legit, but the heads will need a thorough inspection (and valve job according to their site) by a good shop. I don't know how much this will run and you are kinda taking a chance with used heads. If you do get good ones, then that is a damn good deal.
 

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MN12-Blackbird said:
I would but a NPI bottom is more Blower (future mod) friendly.
YOUR NPI bottom is not blower friendly. It's highly recommended you build a forged bottom for any blower application.. yeah, yeah, I know there are lotsa guys out there with low boost, safe tuned blowers, and some have been getting away with it for years. My personal feeling about that is "why bother?" (you can run 13's without a blower, heck you can run 12's without a blower), and when (not if) the bottom self-destructs, what other high priced hardware will it take with it?? Your $2200 Renegade heads, or maybe your Bullitt or AED intake, or SVO blower??? Not worth the risk IMHO.

So, say you're gonna build a forged bottom for SC... you're not gonna use your '94 block, you'll either have someone build it for you, and they will use a late model block, or you will hunt down an '02 Explorer or Mustang block and do it yourself.

Therefore, if you are looking to SC down the road, anything you do now is transitional. You can build it up and throw it away, or you can pick up stuff that you can use down the road. Been there, done that, and have the hat, the car and the spare parts to prove it. I took my '96 just about as far as my 132,000 mi. stock bottom could go N/A. With a safe tune, I got 245rwhp (a bit over 300 at the flywheel) and did mid 13's... The next step was bigger injectors and the SVO intake, and that would have put me over the limit on the stock bottom end, unless I left it "de-tuned." So I decided to have a low compression (not N/a friendly) forged SC bottom built with the SVO intake and a vortech blower. When I decided to do that, the custom ground N/A compcams are scrapped for PI cams; Steeda UD pullies are worthless to me now; the 02 GT Maf is scrapped in favor of the 90mm Lightning unit; the 75mm BBK TB and pnp upper plenum is not useable (the SVO uses the Cobra TB); we may use part of one of the tubes of the MAC CAI to rig the blower - but the rest is gonzo; I scrapped the small AADCO rear sway bar to upgrade to the biggest front and rear bars. I even opted for a newer generation, slightly more blower friendly pnp NPI heads (sorry the others are already spoken for, so don't ask). There may be some other stuff I'm throwing away, but that's all I can think of off the top of my head.

So all that stuff is gone.

However what I kept was: the Kooks headers and true dual exhaust; the 3200 stall PI TC, the Reinhart trans and driveshaft, the cobra pumpkin, the Bilstein shocks, all the poly bushings, the 13" Cobra brake set up, the Ronal wheels, Dunlop tires and the paint job. The only things I'm using from the engine are the Cobra oil pump and pickup tube, the Mark oil pan, the water pump, and the chains, tensioners, guides and sprockets, and that's only 'cause they were put on new when I did the pnp head swap.

My point is that how to spend that $1000 depends on what your future plan is (if you have one). From my experience $1000 is not a lot to spend on stuff to make youre car go fast, and I had the advantage of starting with a '96. I've left the '95 alone (well almost), just too much to change...

If you are planning to do this $1000 mod, and play with the car for an extended period of time, and want her to go fast, I would scrap the 94 heads, put pi heads and a pi intake on her, scrap the Disable (oops Freudian slip, I meant Diablo) chip in favor of an SCT tuned chip and go out and run 13's until you're ready to do something else. Now I'm not sure you can do all that on $1000, but I'd save a little longer 'til I could. Alternatively you can put a set of Compcams 102200 grind cams in your car as it sits for $600 and have $400 for bolt-ons, or a PI intake, or a chip and run 13's. If you don't have the cams custom ground for N/A LSA, you can probably get away with using them SC, or sell em for $450 or so and get PI cams to swap in for $200.

If, on the other hand, this is just a stepping stone to greater things, you might look closely at what I'm not scrapping, and see how some of that stuff fits into your plans. Some of it you all ready have.

All of the other options posted here are good options, but which option best suits your future plan. I figure you have one 'cause you mentioned "blower friendly," and if you have future plans, they won't include your '94 heads, intake or possibly even the block.
 

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J.Miller said:
The best mod for a grand is a torque converter. There ain't nothing like the feel of gravity on your back side. :D

Who knows, you may have cash left for a cat back.
I just love the way J. Miller answers questions:

Which is the better time for lunch? Morning or Night?

J. Miller: Afternoon.

Always looking at the best answer, not the best given choice.

My vote is with the torque converter. They balloon and are a known weak point, and they can be a lot of bang for the buck if you look at your dyno runs for the torque peak.
 

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According to his sig, he has already upgraded his TC and flywheel to the Mark parts. For what he is doing and what he has with only $1000 more to invest in additional power, the Mark TC should serve him quite well. JL ran 13.99 with PI cams and a Mark TC. Eric Z ran his NPI bottom with PI heads with the Mark converter for quite awhile before he upgraded, among many others who are still running the Mark TC.

A higher stall converter is a great mod and certainly necessary if you want to hook with major power, but until he puts major power to wheels I think the Mark TC will do just fine.

MN12-Blackbird
Spend your money on something else. You already spent it on the Mark stuff, you're not ready to throw that away just yet.

IMHO
-mike
 

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ok....heres what id do with a grand and your current mods......

96+ npi heads - 150$ish
Pi Intake and bird install stuff 200$ish
2.5 duals w/crossover n muffler of your choice 600$ish


thats basically a grand for ya.....but thats just me....whats your overall idea for the bird?
 

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hey i relized goldbird typed what i was thinkin but didnt care to type....yeah....what he said.....but im saying if you have to get performance now...for a grand....do that.....and that stuff more along the lines if you arent really going for bigger things then like mid to hi 14s....if you wanna run an sc setup take that grand and start building yourself an engine decked out the way you want it.....pi n npi heads are merely a matter of witch you like better b/c of the options avaible that theygive you......same with the block and so on and so forth......goldbird had all that covered tho.....i meant....if it was me.....and that grand had to be spent for go fast goodies you dont already have......and goldbird......should have put all that good stuff on the 95....no love for the original 4.6 birds :(
 

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Matt S. said:
It is legit, but the heads will need a thorough inspection (and valve job according to their site) by a good shop. I don't know how much this will run and you are kinda taking a chance with used heads. If you do get good ones, then that is a damn good deal.
well the PI heads go new of steeda for 375$ each. the intake is 200$. then there is the head swap kit for another 100$. So the parts alone are 900$ new. for 400$ and some minor touch up work that aint too bad. what does everyone think?
 

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97ThunderCat said:
for 400$ and some minor touch up work that aint too bad. what does everyone think?
You guys really should do a search.

Johnny Langton said:
Steer clear of those crooks.Those are heads and intakes removed for the "tick" TSB program,and will need guides,and a valve job,if not more.
Bad,Bad investment.
JL
In car parts as in life, generally speaking, you get what you pay for. Of course good deals do come along, but if it sounds to good to be true, it probably is.

The advertising itself is clear that the heads "need work." How many ads do you see that say, "Our product is broken, it needs to be fixed, but buy it cause it's really cheap"????

But hey, go for it, someone has to be the guinea pig....
 
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