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The car always cranks over just fine, but, sometimes it wont start. It seems like it does it worse after its warmed up. Ive checked for codes and no codes. It only does it intermittently so its difficult to diagnose.

Ive searched and read some people say it could be a bad crank position sensor ? any ideas on this or how to figure it out ??
 

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Could be. I had an Explorer that had a similar problem and it was a bad IAC (idle air control) valve.

Joe
 

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Lucky you... Seems like it's easier to fix on cars that don't start hot vs don't start cold. I still haven't figured my crank no start cold issue, many parts and diag hours later. :(
 

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Yeah the CKP can easily cause a No-Start condition, check the resistance of it with the vehicle OFF using an ohmmeter and see if it's within spec.
 

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It's just as , or more, likely to be the Fuel pump. Do you hear it run when you turn key on?
If that runs..
Have you tried the hard start procedure? After first try, hold accel to floor. If nothing then pump the pedal.
 

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It's just as , or more, likely to be the Fuel pump. Do you hear it run when you turn key on?
If that runs..
Have you tried the hard start procedure? After first try, hold accel to floor. If nothing then pump the pedal.
Most PCM/ECM fuel injected vehicles will not allow you to start the vehicle with the accelerator held at WOT to prevent flooding the vehicle. It's not carburated...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
funny you say that, it seems like if we hold the pedal to the floor it will start sometimes.. its hard to figure out since it wont do it all the time.

Ive searched, i guess i have to remove the A/C compressor to get the ckp out ?
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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You don't need to remove it, you just need to unbolt it to get it away from the block a few inches.

Holding the pedal to the floor while cranking cuts off the fuel injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, thanks terminator. This is a hard one to figure out since it won't do it all the time. It's def after the car had warmed up and been driven.
 

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vairlady

My 1997 T-bird LX 4.6 most of the time but especially first start of the day seems to cranks excessively long before it lights. It has 133,600 miles on it. It has no codes (currently). It is throwing a catalytic converter below threashold code that I keep recording and clearing till I can replace the converter. I wouldn't think that would be the problem, would it?
 

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My 1997 T-bird LX 4.6 most of the time but especially first start of the day seems to cranks excessively long before it lights. It has 133,600 miles on it. It has no codes (currently). It is throwing a catalytic converter below threashold code that I keep recording and clearing till I can replace the converter. I wouldn't think that would be the problem, would it?
Define excessively long..."excessive" is subjective to interpretation.
 

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Did you try cycling the key 3 or 4 times? If that works then you have fuel leaking back into the tank meaning a check ball in the fuel rail is leaking. Also if that's not the case, the idle air control relies on correct resistance to determine how far open or closed it should be. If you have corrosion on any of those wires or the actuator itself is failing it could fail the IAC closed. It won't have a code if the resistance is within normal parameters
 

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The car always cranks over just fine, but, sometimes it wont start. It seems like it does it worse after its warmed up. Ive checked for codes and no codes. It only does it intermittently so its difficult to diagnose.

Ive searched and read some people say it could be a bad crank position sensor ? any ideas on this or how to figure it out ??
I have the same problem. When it doesn't start it is not getting spark. Sometimes I'll have the plug wire off the coil so I can see if it spsarks when I see the spark from the coil and it starts.

I tested my coils and I get two readings when I test the right two prongs I get .7 when I test the left prong I get 1.1 which are the same as the two new ones I tested at autozone

I tested the plug going to the crank position sensor it tests 1.6v and the sensor tests 3.4ohm but I dont know what they are supposed to test except that I tested a new sensor and it is 4.1ohm

the car is running now but I'm afraid to drive it back to Oklahoma from Colorado although I had this issue before driving it to Co. A few days before driving to Co. the car started after having not started for about 3 days. so I drove around Okc for a few days and had no problems I got all the way up to Colorado Springs and the second morning here it wouldn't start. A few hrs later it started and I drove it home to my garage (its cold right now!) and the next day it wouldnt start. After I unplugged and tested the Crank Pos. sensor and plugged it back in it started. I stopped and started it multiple times. I let it run for an hr. and stopped and started again. I bought a CPS just in case but maybe I should go ahead and install it.

I dont have a manual for the car. what are the volt and ohm readings supposed to be? Autozone has a pretty good diagnostic procedure but it doesn't give exact specs for the 96 T-bird V8 4.6L with 151,000 miles

I also have a blinking airbag light 3short-1long blink.
Check engine light is reading P0430 and P1443 codes
Dome/hood/trunk light fuse continuously blows
cruise control quit working.
door ajar light stays on.
sometimes the seat belt light works
I Just fixed my brake light switch it was burnt causing the brake lights to stay on
I just found my coolant leak I think its coming from the lower radiator side tank.
a couple yrs ago I replaces my spark plugs and wires.
I have had to clean the Idle Air Control valve a couple times because it wouldnt idle and it idled too high.
I think I've fixed my vaccume leaks
right side window is off track I hear the motor but wont roll down.
Most of the time my sunroof rolls back but not every time.
The engine was replaced at 50k miles by Ford because of the intake recall

I think I've listed every problem I've had or have with the car :)
 

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Rtave, I have been having the exact same issues with my 95 Cougar. It won't start right now and I am out of ideas as to what it could be.
 

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Checked all the connections, fuses, routine stuff. I have a new crank position sensor to put on it. I am going to try .
 

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No. I don't have a voltmeter. It will be the weekend before I get it changed. Its been too cold and snowy to deal with it. We are supposed to be close to 50 degrees this weekend.
 

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1996 ford thunderbird 4.6L V8 tan interior
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e
No. I don't have a voltmeter. It will be the weekend before I get it changed. Its been too cold and snowy to deal with it. We are supposed to be close to 50 degrees this weekend.
ever find out why your car wasn’t starting??
 
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