TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It seems like it couldn't hurt, if it lowers the fluid temperature, but may be overkill.

Also, would a deeper pan require an extension to lower the filter?

This B&M pan is "moderately priced" at under $200. I've seen some pans selling for close to $400. I'm open to suggestions for other brands.

 

·
Super Moderator
1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
Joined
·
17,514 Posts
No. The stock 96+ pan and filter is the way to go, deepest part of the pan is where the pickup is which is most ideal. The B&M pan is just like the flat pre 96 pans, just deeper and overpriced.

If you want to lower fluid temperature get an actual cooler and do the J mod while your at it(faster fill times = less clutch slip = less heat).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
288 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
No. The stock 96+ pan and filter is the way to go, deepest part of the pan is where the pickup is which is most ideal. The B&M pan is just like the flat pre 96 pans, just deeper and overpriced.

If you want to lower fluid temperature get an actual cooler and do the J mod while your at it(faster fill times = less clutch slip = less heat).

Thanks for the suggestions!

It seems the 1996 style pan doesn't have a drain plug. I assume the 1998 style pan (with drain plug) would also work when using a proper filter.

1998 pan – part # F8UZ-7A194-AA

 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,666 Posts
I've never seen a factory drain plug in any factory 4R70 drain pan. If you can weld, you can easily install one while you have the pan off though.
 

·
The Parts Guy
Joined
·
7,359 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,417 Posts
Ford made 4r70w pans with factory drain plugs for the econoline van for u-haul. They should still be available. I have a LPW deep aluminum pan and enjoy it. Not a stock vehicle. No adverse problem besides cost. Also those gaskets are crap stick the the ford gasket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
With the deeper aftermarket pans - check and see if they add a custom bracket to hold the filter in place to make sure it doesn't fall down.

Having a drain plug would be nice, but not worth $200. I barely spill anything when lowering the pan. Just put a piece of cardboard beneath your oil container. It isn't that hard to balance the pan after you let it hinge down and get most of the fluid out that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,726 Posts
I would drag a larger pan more often that I just drag the dimple on the 96+ pan. I guess it might be better to have fins to wear off instead one a central area to wear through.

All deeper pans that I have looked at have 3 little legs that hold up the 96+ filter with the tube so that it is held in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,088 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,726 Posts
I drug it all the time on my lowered 97 Cougar, and at least a couple of times with my Mark VIII with a cheapo set of springs replacing the air suspension.

It is usually the very abrupt tall speed bumps, and I also cannot drive either car forward out of my driveway, but backing out is just fine.

I replaced the transmission pan once because in addition to scraping, it hit solid, and it looked like it caved in and creased a corner. My 2000 Grand Marquis hit a curb so hard it broke the filter. That car has a ton of ground clearance compared to the lowered Cougar or the Mark VIII.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Thanks for the suggestions!

It seems the 1996 style pan doesn't have a drain plug. I assume the 1998 style pan (with drain plug) would also work when using a proper filter.

1998 pan – part # F8UZ-7A194-AA

Is this correct part number for adding a factory pan with a drain plug to a 1997? or is there some other better number to use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,726 Posts
There is now a new option, Dorman makes a decent stock style pan with a drain. The drain plug is on the other side of the sump, and it is black powder coated.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-73883-265-813.aspx

significantly cheaper than the OEM one. F8UZ-7A194-AA is the part number for the "U-Haul" pan with the drain plug. YOU can usually find the Dorman for around 25 bucks, the Ford one tends to run around 60-80 bucks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,961 Posts
Speaking of drain plugs, the O-ring type have always leaked a drop or two for me. Gets the bottom of the pan all dirty. If I were to add them again on a regular pan, I would use an O2 sensor bung and a plug that incorporates a flat copper crush washer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
There is now a new option, Dorman makes a decent stock style pan with a drain. The drain plug is on the other side of the sump, and it is black powder coated.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-73883-265-813.aspx

significantly cheaper than the OEM one. F8UZ-7A194-AA is the part number for the "U-Haul" pan with the drain plug. YOU can usually find the Dorman for around 25 bucks, the Ford one tends to run around 60-80 bucks.
anyone use the dorman pan. does it fit right and not leak?
is it a lot thinner than the ford one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,726 Posts
Not heard any negatives for it. At the time I was going to use one, I couldn't find one, no one had it in stock, only a few on eBay for the price of the Ford one.

Now the availability is there but I am not really due for a fluid change for awhile, so I haven't ordered one as I don't need more stuff hanging around that I am not yet using.

It is powder coated steel.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top