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Discussion Starter #1
OK. Here's the story. Loud clunk when shifting from P to R or N to R. I crawled up under there, and had somebody shift for me while watching it. Looked like the pumpkin was loose. So, following all the advice on here about changing the IRS bushings, I ordered them and put them on today. The old ones had almost no signs of wear at all, and it still clunks, probably worse than before. So more shifting/watching. Looks to me like the driveshaft turns about a half turn before anything locks up. That can't be right!!! And no the U-joints are not the problem. Also, once when I had the whells off the ground, I could move each tire quite a bit. Does this sound like the gears inside there are just trashed or what?
I know where theres a '96 in a junkyard with a 3.27. Is it possible to change the whole rear end without taking the halfshafts out and all that, as in one big unit? I don't want to spend a whole lot of money. Do you guys think this used one would be a good idea? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
No responses? I must seem like a real idiot here or something. Let me try this then. to take out a rear end, I would just disconnect the spindles and yank out the halfshafts with the spindles, hub, shafts etc. all attached, then remove the pumpkin by itself. Put the used "96 pumpkin in my car, and I'm all done, right?
 

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I'd look at your U joints or tranny mount.

Joe
 

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I would doubt the gears are trashed. Fix the simple things are go from there. Change the IRS bushings and change the Trans mount. It is fluid filled and over time the rubber tears and leaks fluid out. Before you start swapping pumpkins keep it simple. www.mn12performance.com sells poly IRS bushings and solid rubber trans mounts. Mine did the same thing, when i put my new trans and mount in, the problem went away.

joseph
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, not to belabor the point, but it looks pretty clearly to me like there is something loose inside the differential housing itself. As I said, i just put in new IRS bushings. Without taking out the driveshaft and playing around with the u-joint , i cant say for sure that its NOT the u-jjoint, but i cant see anything moving in the drive shaft/u-joint area, the tranny mount, or the engine mounts. If you put the car in nuetral, theres a lot of slop when i move the driveshaft, but it not the u=joint. The whole driveshaft moves, abouut a half turn as i said before, before it gets any resistance from the rear end. I may be wrong, but that doesn't seem normal to me. I've read a lot about Ford rear end slop on here , but I think this is a little more than just a little slop. Any ideas?
 

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A whole half-turn is definately far beyond what it should turn. Mine turns about 30 degrees. I don't see how it could turn that much without already being dead though. I mean the pinion gear would have to have at least half of its teeth gone. It may be the differential, but I have a radical idea: maybe one (or both) of your cv-joints are twisting a little. It seems odd, but so does being able to turn your driveshaft that much. I would check them first, and then look into a new differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm going to take the driveshaft loose and checkthe u-joints, recheck the tranny mount, and all that. I already wasted $47 on these bushings, (well I guess I'll just chalk that up to preventative maintenance), so I want to make sure before I do anything else. I'll keep ya posted.

One of the reasons I'm so interested in this "96 from the junkyard is that it has a 3.27 gear, and my '94 has 3.08. Thought maybe I might get better acceleration.
 

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Trac-Loc Bad?

Do you have a Trac-Lok in the car? How many miles on it? Have you checked the diff. yet?

Jack up both rear wheels. Then turn one wheel by hand. A good T-Loc will turn the oposite wheel in the SAME direction. (An Open diff. will turn the other wheel in the opposite direction.) Then do the same thing with the other side.

I knew that my 2nd. OEM Medium Trac-Lok was bad when I tested it this way. When I turned the drivers side wheel, the diff. acted as it should. When I turned the pass. side wheel, the drivers side didn't move at all. I lost my orignal T-Lock at 30K mi. Lost the 2nd. at 60K mi. Now I have an Auburn Cone, but I wouldn't recommend that either. For anybody who drives their car Hard & is contemplating buying an Auburn, I'd recommend the Auburn Pro. It has more bias pressure & slips less.

68COUGAR
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No, its just a regular differential. I jacked it up once before, and noticed that one whell would turn quite a bit before the other one moved. And I may have exagerated how much the driveshaft turns. Its maybe a quarter turn before it engages the rear. Was hard to tell just by looking from underneath. I didn't have time to do anything with it yet. I just got some new seats from a junkyard, and spent all weekend on that.
i just don't understand how the thing could have that much play in it. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to rear ends.( Except the kind that are attached to a female body!) Its been like this for a long time, but its really starting to annoy me. Is this something I just have to learn to live with?
 
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