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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's a roughy for you guys who are wanting to get started on this. Any q's, corrections, etc., just shoot. Please no flames as why someone should not do this on their car. Thanks. List of parts is coming, just need to sort it out a bit.

Joe


PI Intake Install/96/7 Conversion for 94/5 MN12


This tech article will walk you through installing a PI intake on a 94/5 Thunderbird or Cougar with a 4.6L V8. This is a fairly simple swap, but parts are becoming harder and harder to come by. I preferred to use all new bolts where I could, as they are inexpensive, and the discontinued ones I simply reused. I also assume no responsibility for any ill affects this article may cause your car. If you are not sure how to proceed, you may want to get another person’s opinion. This is just a guide, and not the only way to do this. Thank you and happy reading.

First off, disconnect the battery. You will be pulling wiring around so this is a good idea. It will also give your computer a chance to clear itself if this takes awhile. You will also need to drain some coolant, and if your coolant has not been changed in awhile, you may want to drain it all. After disconnecting the battery and draining the coolant, you should probably remove the intake tube (violin case) to gain some working room. Then, grab some masking tape and a Sharpie marker or equivalent and label all the injector wires. It is easiest to do this right at the injector. Driver side front of engine is #1, #4 is the rear on the driver side. Front of the passenger side is #5 and #8 is in the rear. I would also suggest labeling all the other wires as well, as most of them will have to be disconnected such as the IAC, EGR, TPS, and possibly even the coil packs to gain room to work. There may be a few others you will need to disconnect, just make sure you label them as you do.

After all the wires have been labeled and disconnected, relieve the fuel pressure. The easiest way to do this is to use a small object of some sort, I used a pocket knife, and depress the valve on the fuel rail. There will be some fuel that leaks out, but not much. After this, you may disconnect the fuel lines. You will have to use two different sizes of tools to remove them. You can generally pick up these tools at a local auto parts store or Advanced Auto, etc. fairly cheap. There will be some fuel that will leak out here also. The alternator will need to be removed as well as the water pump. You may do this at this time.

You may start to remove any vacuum lines that are in the apparent open at this point, as most of them will need to be removed and replaced with the 96/7 tubes. The main wiring harness is also bolted to the manifold with a few bolts. Remove these as well. The plastic covering on the wiring harness will have to be removed as it will not fit on the PI intake. At this point, crawl under the car and remove the EGR nut on the manifold. When this is accomplished, you will have to remove a few things on the back of the intake manifold. It is easiest to remove the manifold if the EGR valve is removed from the manifold itself, but you may not be able to get it off. If that is the case, you will have to slide the manifold out a bit until you gain access to the EGR valve bolts. There is also the EGR and vacuum line regulators that are bolted to the manifold. You may unbolt these as well. There is a piece of hose that runs into the manifold on the rear passenger side of the manifold for the heater core that will need to be unhooked. At this point, once everything apparent is removed from the manifold (wires, vac lines, etc) unbolt the manifold from the heads.

Once the manifold is unbolted, pull it out of the valley. I found it easiest to slide it under the wires, but it took a little time. Once the manifold is removed, remove the coolant tube that runs in the valley. It is also bolted to the rear of the passenger side head. Keep this bolt(s). Next will be the pain staking removal of the old water pump nipple. It must be removed by tapping it from the rear to the front of the engine. Mine was so tight that I needed to use a small chisel and break it out piece by piece. If this is the case, plug the coolant passages and take care not to damage the seating area of the nipple, as leakage may occur. Once this has been removed, place the new PI water pump nipple in and tap it to make sure it fits tight and flush. Take the new PI water tube and slide it over the nipple and bolt it to the rear of the driver side head using one of the two bolts removed from the old tube. Here, you will need a small section of hose, found at your local auto parts store. You should be able to get by with about 2 feet of it, I ended up getting extra just incase. This will go to the other opening for the heater core. You may reuse the original clamps that were on the old hose and tube. At this point you may also place the water pump back in.

Once this is accomplished, it is finally time to place your new PI intake on the motor. But first, you must get out your new NPI intake gaskets and do a bit of RTVing. It is suggested that you RTV the areas around the coolant passages in order to prevent major leakage. If you believe that there may be leakage in other areas, feel free to use some more RTV. Place the gaskets on the heads before the RTV dries. Then place the intake manifold on top of the gaskets. Make sure it is sitting straight and then bolt it down. Follow the torque specs and charts in the manual. You will need to use a 96/7 style thermostat housing and new PI bolts for the housing, as the 96/7 bolts have been discontinued. It would also be advisable to install a new thermostat as well. Once the intake manifold has been tightened down to the heads, it is now time to turn your 94/5 engine into one that looks like a 96/7.

You will need to now install the 96/7 fuel lines to the filter. In order to do this, you will need to remove the front passenger side fender well completely to make this easier. There is one bracket in the fender and one under the car that hold the lines together. Remove the bolts that hold these. Also remove the filter assembly, as you should put a new filter in as well. Once you have done this, pull the lines out from the bottom. You may have to do a bit of bending to get them to come out right. Then replace them with the new ones. Replace the fender well lining and continue to the next step, which is placing the fuel rail and injectors back on the manifold. You may reuse the old bolts, but I used new ones. You will need the 96/7 rail for this to work.

Once you have the new fuel rail with the injectors in, replace the coolant tube (hose) that was on the other manifold that goes to the heater core. Again, you may reuse the old clamps. Now would be a great time to reinstall the EGR valve, tube, and regulator. This will need to be the 96/7 style. It is recommended that you not fully tighten the nut in the manifold to allow the valve to move around a bit so it will line up with the upper plenum. If you have the 96/7 regulator, you can bolt it to the rear of the passenger head. If you are reusing the 94/5 one, you may have to create a way for it to fit. Once you have done this, install the upper plenum and throttle body. You may also put the IAC valve on at this time. You may reuse some of the old bolts, but I am not sure you will have enough of them, as I again just used new bolts. The t body to the upper plenum bolts, the bolts that hold the upper plenum to the intake, and the bolts that hold the fuel rail down are all the same. You may want to order a few extra (hint hint) for odds and ends that you will need later on.

Once you have the upper plenum bolted down, run the wiring harness to all the injectors. You may want to wrap a protective wrapping around the bare wires after you extend a few of them. You will need to extend the TPS connector and the IAC valve connector, but you will need to acquire a 96/7 IAC pigtail as they are different than the 94/5 ones. When you rewire the IAC, the red wire goes to the rear of the car.

Once you have all the wiring completed and protected, bolt the EGR valve to the upper plenum. You will need to reuse the old bolts as they have been discontinued. Next, the vacuum regulator (the small black cylinder that was located near the EGR regulator) will need to be placed somewhere. I mounted this flat just behind the upper plenum using one of those ‘extra’ bolts I had ordered. I simply just cut the bracket that it was originally on, so there was one hole on it yet. I had to trim it a bit to get it to fit where I placed it, but where you put it is up to you.

Here is the second part of the thread:
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=47824&highlight=swap

Quick link to parts thread:
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=49330&highlight=swap

Joe
 

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Way to come through, whitecoug! I hope they sticky this one or add it to their Tech Articles section after review. This is gonna help me make the transition later on. Thanks for your extra effort to help us '95'ers out. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No problem guys. I have yet to add the parts list, etc. to it, but hopefully I can get that done in a few days or so. Dave, a copy will be on its way.

Joe
 

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Dont forget pics man, people will find it sometimes easier buy looking at pics...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tx_Cat said:
Dont forget pics man, people will find it sometimes easier buy looking at pics...
I did this article since I have swapped heads, so I did take some pics, mostly of the initial teardown. My camra filled up and couldn't get the pics to my laptop, so consequently there are no pics after the heads (just the heads) were put on. I am going to try to get my hands on a nicer digi cam this weekend and I will try to get some pics of the completed assembly. I believe that looking at those will be more of a benefit than a step by step (hopefully). There will also be a parts list with part numbers coming, I just need to get it organized yet.

Joe
 

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For the IAC, where exactly do you run this red wire when you say to the back of the engine? Do you mean as a ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The red wire simply goes to the back side of the IAC valve pigtail that you will need. Both of the wires are black on the pigtail so you need to know whick wire goes where.

Joe
 

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whitecoug said:
The red wire simply goes to the back side of the IAC valve pigtail that you will need. Both of the wires are black on the pigtail so you need to know whick wire goes where.

Joe
and you found this out by using a wiring diagram, or just winging it?
 

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whitecoug said:
No problem guys. I have yet to add the parts list, etc. to it, but hopefully I can get that done in a few days or so. Dave, a copy will be on its way.

Joe
What's the progress on the parts list + part #'s? I am just awaiting your complete list so I can start ordering what I don't have yet. Thanks! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As for knowing which wire it is, if you look how the plug plugs into the IAC valve on the 94/5, then compare the orientation of the 96/7 valve, you will be able to understand I think. I believe if the wires are interchanged, the car will not run, but I do know that if the plug is disconnected, the car will definately not run.

As for the parts list, I have not yet compiled it. I have my order sheets/reciepts from Dan sitting here. I just need to find some time to get them together in an orderly fashon. I know, I know...I need to get moving on it. I will try to have it done this week sometime.

Joe
 

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nice man i hope it gets moved to tech or stickied.. thats cool makes me think about it. thanks for doing it.
 
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