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Discussion Starter #1
Most of the tech. articles make us look stupid.

If I was new to the thunderbird community and wanted to read the tech. articles to see what kind of mods. were possible, I would be rather "turned off" by this web sites "tech" articles.

Don't get me wrong, some of them are incredible. Jerry's articles are written very well and he has included plenty of technical information and theory to back himself up. Some of the other ones look like someone accidentally thought outloud and their random thoughts found their way onto the internet.

Sorry, but the broken english and un-supported claims in them are silly.

-Danimal
 

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I'll agree with that............

I posted some information in a thread, that gave specifics on the parts inside the tail lense assembly. JT took that information and created a Tech article out of it, without even asking me first ( no criticism intended, just stating facts ). I was not happy with the way the Tech Article came out (because I had not finished gathering my data), but I certainly appreciated JT's effort in pasting it together.

As I continued with the project, I posted more information in some threads, which I wanted to have added to the Tech article. I spoke with JT about me sending him a re-written Tech Article, and he was agreeable to that. That was just before all the rukus started, and JT left for awhile. I would like to submit a newer version of the Tech Article.

Also, the Tech article on the Door hinge pins leaves a lot to be desired. Again, no criticism meant, but I did not find it to be very helpful when I changed mine. I actually posted very detailed instructions on how I did mine. I would be more than happy to write a new Tech Article for that.

The Tech Article on how to post pictures with your message, is also poorly written.
I actually posted a new "how to" message, and thought Sir William or one of the TCCOA staff would take it and put it in the Tech Articles.

Anyway, I agree with you that the Tech Articles do need some reviewing, and I will be more than happy to offer any help in doing that.
 

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Didn't you write some of those though Dan? Ha ha ha...just kidding man...

John
 

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Hey thunder....buddy......couldja?

Hey Rolling Thunder,.......i need to change my hinge pins or SOMETHING 'cause i'm starting to slightly sag. Was wondering how much it came out and a link or something to some more detailed info......you know my email/AOL so if you're busy i'll wait 'till i can chat w/ you instead.........Thanx
 

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I can send you an e-mail later today, when I get home from work.

It is a pretty easy job, and you can do it by yourself. To me, the hardest part was getting the sawz-all in there to cut the pin in half, without damaging the paint or door skin. Getting the door back on, and lining it back up was easy.

Catch ya later..................
 

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Ya know...

We STILL have tech articles on gutting the maf, another article about removing the top speed limiter, which never has and never will work, and some other crap. We need to get them cleared out.
 

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The one for removing the top speed limiter does work....ask Lonnie...it is for older cars only though, not the 94-97.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I'd like to hear the tech articles you had written out Rolling-Thunder. Especially the hinge pin one...

Dode hasn't fixed my hinges yet...bastard...

-danimal
 

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you should come on over this weekend...we will have a hinge fixing party.

John
 

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I just replaced the lower passenger side door hinge pin, bushings, and the striker plate. Here is some additional information for those who are going to do this job.

1. If you have never replaced the bushings since the car was new, you may consider replacing the hinge too. Mine was so worn, that the bushing was completely worn through, and the pin had elongated the hole in the hinge plate. I used a 15/32 dia. drill bit, and opened up the hole, but the bushing fits in there just a hair loose.

2. In spite of this amount of wear, the upper hinge bushings had no play in them, so I am going to leave them alone.

3. When cutting the hinge pin, cut it closer to the bottom bushing, than the top. You can then take a center punch, or drift pin, and knock out the lower piece of the pin, from above. Then come up through the bottom of the lower hole, and knock out the top piece of the pin. The original pin has some knurling on it, and does not come out easily.

4. On my car, it was not necessary to make scribe marks, as it was obvious where the hinge plate was. The plate wears into the paint enough to make its' own marks.

5. For removing the door, I built a one piece, wooden support cradle to support the bottom of the door in two places. I made it the same height as the bottom of the door, and put a couple of notches in it to keep the door from falling off. Use a trolley jack to lift the car up slightly, so that you can slide the cradle under the door. Put shop rags between the door and cradle, to protect the paint. You can then slide the door away from the car, and tilt it forward, so it leans against the back edge of the fender. I then propped the door in place with a broom handle.

6. When installing the lower hinge pin, do not push it all the way down.
Leave it about 1/2" high. so that you can get the lower hinge bolt back in, and tightened. Then you can tap it the rest of the way down.

7. Part numbers from 5-Star Ford;

Hinge Pin - D9ZZ-6643030-AA
Bushing - D9OZ-6522841-C (2 req'd per hinge)
Striker Plate - F3SZ-6322008-A


Tools required:
13mm combination box wrench, Sawz-all with metal cutting blade, T50 torx head bit (for striker plate), trolley jack.
It took me about 1 hour to do the total job, including making the support cradle.

 
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