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Discussion Starter #1
I just went through the tech mods and it seems that the J-mod takes 6-7 hours, is that correct? My mechainc gets $50./hour and at that cost it is not practical for me to do! Did I read that correctly? Thanks, mark
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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With a modded valve body it took me around 3 hours or so .
I went slow.

Maybe if you do the whole tranny .
 

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6-7 hours if you do it yourself, I doubt it would take a good mechanic that long.
 

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However, having done a J-Mod myself, you CAN do it yourself. I had never so much as cracked a transmission open before doing a J-Mod. But the instructions are so precise, and so detailed that its very difficult to get it wrong. And if you do have any questions, there are many folks here who can answer them. This reduces the cost of a J-mod considerably.
 

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Its really not that hard... its just a good idea to take your time and do everything right the first time. Anyone who can pick up a ratchet and drill a hole can do it.
 

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Enough to make it worth lying on my back in the driveway, getting old Tranny Fluid all over me, busting my knuckles, and maybe getting pinched by a C-clip, just to make it shift quck, crisp, and clean.

And to Bark 2nd gear. :D

Seriously, it is definitely worth the effort. Nice quick, clean, shifts and improved durability.
 

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As Traveler said, not only does the jmod save your tranny, but it also makes you car more fun to drive, as long as you don't mind a little jerk and tire chirp between gears. :)
 

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Definately considering this. Of course I have a tired 1994 vintage tranny and I may be pouring good money after bad.

Worst current problem is a Loooong 3-4 overlap.
 

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I would guess if you have good snap ring pliers and you don't have to fight with that (if you check/replace/remove the 1-2 accumulator and or spring) and you have everything you need ready, and are not installing a cooler, you can do it in 2 or 3 hours, and that is a lot of do nothing time, letting the tranny drip, cleaning up the main control (but not dumping out the check balls or the small filter) and fiddling around.

I let mine sit overnight, I got an extra quart or so that dripped out of it, but to drop the pan, remove the filter, unplug the wiring, remove the main control, seperate the plate, drill the holes, remove the the 1-2 accumulator and replace it and the springs and put it back in, fight with the 2-3 accumulator, replace the plate, install the main control, plug in electrical, install filter and pan, there isn't much to it.

Some things you will fight with possibly besides the 1-2 accumulator (I put in a new piston and both new springs, you leave the one out from the documentation and it way easier) are making sure that you get the stepped shaft (I can't think of its name right now) in the proper place, and cleaning up after the Mercon shower (I have to find a better shampoo for it).

I installed a tranny cooler at the same time, and had to make a couple of trips for fittings for that, remove the radiator and other things, and I think I only had 5 hours into it all. I wasn't out to see how fast I could do it, and it was all new to me, but with all the documentation and pictures, it was easy. I used a sharpie to mark the holes, started with the smaller ones and triple checked everything I did.

To have someone "install" it, get a seperator place and the accumulator pistons and springs and have someone do it, I would guess they would charge 2 hours labor, maybe three. If you don't need the pistons then return them.
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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i like doing it my self because you never know if the shop will torque all your bolt properly.

for the valvebody bolts i went thru the sequence 3 times and the fourth time to make sure evrything is in torque spec. then on the next fluid change i rechecked the torque setting again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys. I would have a pro do it as my body is not worth very much. I thought I read 7-8 and at $50/hr. That would make it a mod to skip. Mark
 

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darrin sells modded valvebodies. so all you would have to do is drop out your old one, swap the accumulator pistons and put the new one it. very very easy.
 

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Bangster said:
.......I let mine sit overnight, I got an extra quart or so that dripped out of it........
Thats one of the better ideas I've seen about the J-mod. Seems like no matter how long you let it drain after dropping the pan, when you pull the valve body you're going to get a drenching, and then the valve body still has fluid in it. There is NO neat way to do this!
 

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do it yourselllfff. I hadnt even done my own oil change yet and I did the J-mod WITH the help of some of the Michigan guys!! The details are insane...you can't go wrong.
 

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DScruggs said:
Definately considering this. Of course I have a tired 1994 vintage tranny and I may be pouring good money after bad.

Worst current problem is a Loooong 3-4 overlap.
wouldnt attempt it with a stock 94 trans if its over 100K
 

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94V8Thunderbird said:
wouldnt attempt it with a stock 94 trans if its over 100K
OK. I am interested to know why? In other words is it likey to accelerate failure? Is it likely to not work as advertised?

Remember my situation. Tranny has some specific problems, primarily lazy, slow 3-4 shift. I will be bracket racing this car and already plant to get a built tranny within a year or so.

The trans I have now was rebuilt (stock rebuild) by a half decent ATRA shop about 2 years (20,000) ago. I do not know if the case used was the original or a donor.

Also since we are talking about labor hours how many hours does it take to R & R converter. I have swapped many converters over the year w/o pulling trans completely out. Feasable here?
 

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Fry Rice Specialist
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when they rebuilt it do they rebuilt it with a transgo shift kit too?
 
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