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The links above! :tongue:

Joe
Yeh, I figured that, so I searched out the new ones ! :thumbsup:
I edited my first post above!

Merry Christmas, Joe!
 

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Yeh, I figured that, so I searched out the new ones ! :thumbsup:
I edited my first post above!

Merry Christmas, Joe!
I started going through the site, then gave up! :eek:

Thanks Rick, Merry Christmas to you and the family! :)

Joe
 

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I prefer to take the stiffner plate from early valvebodies and install it on late, you do have to grind it a little to clear the passage. I carry all of sonnax's products I just don't see the point of the gasket they use with their plate kit not that it really matters it doesn't hurt anything.
Alan
 

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I prefer to take the stiffner plate from early valvebodies and install it on late, you do have to grind it a little to clear the passage. I carry all of sonnax's products I just don't see the point of the gasket they use with their plate kit not that it really matters it doesn't hurt anything.
Alan
Thanks Alan ...... I'ld have been OK with a used one but didn't have it handy and did not want to pull the VB out of my '95 to look at it .....
..... and I figured if I didn't order it soon, I'ld put it back on that "back burner" too soon .... again.
So I just Googled "76507F-01K" and about the third response was the place I ordered from. I looked at the pics, it is correct.

I'll keep in mind what you say about the gasket ..... Thanks and ..... "Merry Christmas!"
 

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You need a 6mmx1.0 tap the sonnax kit does not come with the tap. The drill guide I read says you need a #8 drill bit. What I did to come up with the right drill bit size was find one of the other holes in the valvebody the right size and find a drill bit that just barely fit in one of them. Transmission fluid makes a great lubricant for tapping aluminum.
Alan
 

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1/4-20 Tap & Fastener much easier to Tap "freehand" & much stronger Thread than Metric.
 

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Talk about procrastination .... today I ... etc ...
Today, July 4th, 2014 .... I was getting the 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis ready for a trip to Georgia next week, took it to town for state inspection (it was covered up, it expired in May, so I made a appointment) and as I was driving, I was thinking about the J-mod I want to do .... so when I got home I got to looking around in my shop .... I had the trans filter, had about 30 quarts Mercon V on the shelf, had the box with the Sonnax #76507F-01K reinforcement plate kit (see http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=142615, about post 12-13 for "why") and VB gaskets ..... and car has 76,545 miles .... about 30K on current fluid .... so I got her done today.

Last time I changed fluid I had installed a drain bolt so draining went easy. Used my tall black plastic like ramps, all went smoothly.

I had taps on hand for both 6mm-1.0 metric as well as 1/4-20 SAE ... I used the metric as the bolt heads were 10mm like them other plates use. I drilled and tapped holes before taking VB apart for separator plate mods. Just like instructions say, I used a 5/16" drill to "polish" dimples and create a center, then I used the drill bit that matched the tap (forget size, it came with the tap when I bought it years ago) and drilled through all the way on a drill press using a oak block that's squared up as back up .... then I sprayed some 2+2 on it and blew with air to blow chips away before opening the VB up (the holes are in solid parts).

Once I separated VB from separator plate, then I drilled new holes in separator plate to 1/4" to clear bolts ..... and used grease on tap as I tapped threads so chips stayed with tap. Then I made sure .... absolutely sure... that no errant chips were in the recesses of the VB.

Then ..... I did exactly this:
Per Jerry W. regarding 1998- 4R70W's...

>Ignore what the article says and do this...
>
> Remove the bottom 1-2 accumulator spring and remove the bottom 2-3
> accumulator spring.
>
> For holes do this.
>
> Hole #2 is the intermediate clutch feed (1-2 shift). Make this hole in the
> .100"-.110" range. It should be .081" in your plate right now.
> Hole #10 is the reverse clutch feed. Totally optional. If you want it to
> engage into reverse faster when you move the lever, open this up to .093".
> Holes #4 & 5 are the direct clutch feed (2-3 shift). Open both of these
> holes up to .100"-.110".
> Holes #9 and 11 are the forward clutch feed (4-3/4-2 shift). Make both of
> these .100-.110" as well.
>
> So, it looks like you need a drill of around .100" and you should be good.
> When you open up holes 4&5 make sure the hole in the gasket between the
> separator plate and valve body casting, is large enough. These holes are a
> little small.
>
> jerry
I cleaned my separator plate, used a sharpie to mark holes, checked them several times, and then ...
... I used a new 3/32 bit (that's 0.09375") for hole #10 ...
... and a new 7/64 bit (that's 0.109375") for holes # 2, 4, 5, 9, & 11.
Chamfered with chamfer bit held in hand. Checked my new gaskets that I had ordered with the Sonnax kit .... picked the right one
.... and did just slightly enlarge one of the holes (4 or 5 as I recall) as one was smallish .... and reassembled and reinstalled using my in lbs. torque wrench.

This car has stock 4.6 with only change being the factory dual exhaust and no resonators (has mufflers) and 2.76 highway gearing.

Now instead of just a change in engine rpm and sound as she accelerates and changes gears ..... NOW you can actually feel a good "nudge" when she changes at part throttle. I tried a WOT shift, it shifts noticeably harder than before but the 2.73 gears subdue it so it should not break traction.

Did take 10 quarts of fluid though .... but she's not overfull. I measured all that drained in the process, I caught most of it .... 9-1/2 quarts of old fluid in two jugs for the recycle container .... and I lost a very slight bit to spillage and wiping away with a rag.

Edit July 13, 2014:

Added details above .... am now looking back after 600 plus miles getting down to Georgia .... performed flawlessly all the way, loaded up, etc ...

I'm happy. ;)
 

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I maybe should add a few details ....

Of course, a drain plug is helpful. This is one I added first time I did the fluid and filter on the Merc maybe 9-10 years ago. I now install the drain in the rear angled wall of the drop down part ....






(I have one prepped for my '95 T-bird which I'll swap over to with new style filter when next I do it.) :)



They are easy to fabricate with minimal welding. I cut a piece of 1/8" X 1" steel and drill two 1/4" holes for internal mounting and a center hole I tap for 1/2-20 threads. Then I weld a 1/2-20 nut using a bolt to align the threads .... and clean it with a tap. Then drill the three holes and mount to pan.



On to the details I wanted to add .... :)

When I pulled my VB out from under the car there was a small black framed plastic screen with a closed end with rubber bumper on it laying on top.



I wasn't sure where it came from .... so I searched. It fits large open end up in a similar shaped hole towards the front left (driver's) side .... wear safety glasses to protect eyes when looking.



Clean area well with brake clean and just before you reinstall the VB .... stick the small black framed filter in place with a heavy dose of Vaseline around the edges .... once the VB is in place it presses against the bumper and holds it in place.

Here's a picture of the area where that new plate goes to reinforce the separator plate. See the mark in the center where the 2-3 Accumulator Cover has hit ...



On the later 4R70Ws where the plate was eliminated Ford did add a boss in the VB underneath the separator plate to back it up. I have seen the older transmissions like my '95 Tbird's 4R70W does not have that half circular boss about half way between the two holes I drilled and tapped and it's dead center under where that 2-3 retainer contacts.



Here I was just checking hole center to center and filed one hole a little bit, but in use the notch in the plate would be at 12 o'clock in this picture, except there would also be a gasket and separator plate between them. That's an exhaust feed I think.



I plumb forgot to take a picture of the VB assembled after the mods with the reinforcement plate in place, but I lined the notch of the new plate with the hole seen in the pic above.
The screen thing was laying just like that .... I guess it fell like that.

Lastly ..... remember this picture ..... shows linkage detail and that roller on the springy arm that creates "detents".




Maybe it helps someone else?


:)
 

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Nice work but why bother fabricating a drain plug when you can buy them for under $9?
Same reason why we own this cars and not a Honda or Mustang. It may takes a certain type of people to own a Mn12. The second line in your sig may be a hint.
Subscribed to this thread sine 2010.
Thanks for following up CP.
 

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Nice work but why bother fabricating a drain plug when you can buy them for under $9?
I know .... and you can get it even cheaper.

I put one of those in the pan of my '77 F-150 when I first got it in the 1980s .... and it always has leaked some .... and to replace the nylon gasket you have to drop the pan so you can get to the nut inside.

Once I install mine (see above post) in the pan, when I tighten the two small retaining bolts with lock tight or follow up with a center punch staking them, they do not ever loosen or leak. The 1/2-20 plug is common as is the gasket and is trouble free.

Next time I have the pan off the '77, I'll change it likely. Besides, it only has a little over 1/4" hole to drain through .... my current type I made is 1/2".
 
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