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Discussion Starter #1
is the new 1-2 accumulator cover **f4az-7f247-a** a necessary part. And what is the difference between that one and the stock one in a 97.
 

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my 97 already had the updated ones in it already, chances are yours does too.
 

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Converter is a huge variable on settings. For a converter about 2800-3200 stall that setting will be perfect, for 3500+ go all the way. For a stock converter go mild.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok. mild it is then. Today is part order day for me, so if my 97 tranny supposedly came stock with the updated parts, all I need is drill bits and 16 quarts of mercon v? After I get it apart and I find out there is NOT a blue spring in there, I will be okay leaving the stock one in there? What is the part numbers of the 97 stock accumulators and springs?
 

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My 97 didn't have the new pistons, it still had the aluminum ones with the orings. I didn't have a broken upper spring, but I replaced it with the one listed for mild settings as well.

I don't know if the cover is needed or not, it was supposedly redesigned, I THINK it is a different depth to affect the spring height, but I don't know, I just replaced it with the other one, I don't know if is listed to just have a new one that seals or if the sealing surface is different or now ::shrug::
 

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mine had a build date of 08/97 and to my surprise had already had the rubber bonded accumulators and had the 1-2 blue/purple spring in it already. I switched to a brown upper/purple lower 1-2 spring as per Dirtydog, and pulled out the 2-3 spring. Might as well just buy everything all to make sure your set.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
my car is made 4/97 Hope that the right accumulators are there cause I did nlot get them today, thinking that i must have the same ones as you do. This is the first i have heard abiout a brown spring. The info on the jmod is kinda scattered and contradictory. I thought everybody says blue top and no bottom 1-2 springs. Thja guy at the ford dealers said he has never ever sold that accumulator for 1-2 or 3-4, so hope that means mine out of my 97 are tha right ones. Too late now anyways, it is coming apart furst thing in tha morning. If they do happen to be the old onesw and i cant get tha rite ones til the next day and i put it together witj the old style ones, will it still shift way better and last long time?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now that I have looked closely at the pictures of the old and new accumulators it is obvious to me that the new one is more superiorer to the older one. maybe it even look to me like more pressure would make old one leak more easilier than the new one. Then it would probably fail on me and it would be mine own fault foer having no patience so i will wait if they are the wrong ones in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have drained the torque converter and dropped the pan and i have spilled no mercon yet on anywhere. Maybe when the valve body come out it will spill some, but it will have dripped overnight by then. When i look up in the hole where the filter go up to join onto the valve body I see a plastic ring looking kindof like the oneon the end of the filter. Is this suppose to be there, or is it left up in there by another guy who changed up the filter and did something wrong?
 

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As long as there is only one plastic ring from the end of the filter, then you are good. If there are two, then you need to make sure there are none in the tranny and only one on the new filter. Just make sure it is out of the bore so the new filter with the new seal fits all the way in.

The old style pistons, the machined aluminum with the groove and o-ring looks more high tech, but the steel one with the rubber bonded on works better. On mine you could see where the piston was scuffed up pretty bad on one side. Luckily it rotated around inside the bore and wore it evenly. I cleaned it up with some sort of fine emory cloth or crocus cloth or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i have the updated accumulators too. For once things go right. I just do not know and cant tell from wear patterns which way 2-3 retainer faces upwards. somebody got pics please of the orientationing of the retainr?
 

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As long as we're on the subject:

I'm going to be doing a J-mod soon on the LX. I did one on the LE and didn't have any problems with it, but I need a refresher. Can the valve body be dropped as a unit, without having to take it apart? I'd like to just swap the J-modded valve body out of the LE and put it in the LX and vice versa. I don't want to have to take the valve body apart or do any more drilling. And can you drop the valve body along with the pistons? or do you have to pull the pistons out, then the valve body? Like I said, I did it once, but I can't remember a whole lot about it (I'm sure it'll come back to me as soon as I drop the pan and look at it.)
 

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I know that the J-Mod will firm shifts, but does it also shorten up that long delay between forward and reverse?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i am hoping the tabs face down???
Anybody know this answer?
i am stuck waiting til i know the answer
the spring just popped out with it when the v b cane down so i could not see or else i woulda probably looked and knoen for sure. if i search for the answer I get the same vast amount of threads that it will take weeks to wade through them all like i did before I started the jmod. There is a picture in the tech article of a exploded accumulatoer diagram but where it says click on picture for a bigger picture, if you click on it it doesnt get bigger. So that means i still cant make out the orientation of the 2-3 accumulator retainer.



But I know that I seen it somewhere on this here site
 

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Traveler said:
As long as we're on the subject:

I'm going to be doing a J-mod soon on the LX. I did one on the LE and didn't have any problems with it, but I need a refresher. Can the valve body be dropped as a unit, without having to take it apart? I'd like to just swap the J-modded valve body out of the LE and put it in the LX and vice versa. I don't want to have to take the valve body apart or do any more drilling. And can you drop the valve body along with the pistons? or do you have to pull the pistons out, then the valve body? Like I said, I did it once, but I can't remember a whole lot about it (I'm sure it'll come back to me as soon as I drop the pan and look at it.)

you can swap them, since they are both 97's, without drilling etc; just need a new top gasket (goes over the reinforcement plates). To your second question one of the accumulator assemblies can be accessed without removing the valve body other is underneath. The 2-3 is underneath the valve body, it just pops out no snap ring; well you might need a screwdriver or needlenose to pop it out is all. the 1-2 assembly you need snap ring pliers (just looked at some pictures and this is located driver side towards front of car; frontmost cylinder. I used a short pole and jack to help push the spring up while removing the snap ring.
 

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red and proud said:
i am hoping the tabs face down???
Anybody know this answer?
i am stuck waiting til i know the answer
the spring just popped out with it when the v b cane down so i could not see or else i woulda probably looked and knoen for sure. if i search for the answer I get the same vast amount of threads that it will take weeks to wade through them all like i did before I started the jmod. There is a picture in the tech article of a exploded accumulatoer diagram but where it says click on picture for a bigger picture, if you click on it it doesnt get bigger. So that means i still cant make out the orientation of the 2-3 accumulator retainer.



But I know that I seen it somewhere on this here site
lemme see if I can search for u...

edit... I searched for a while but couldn't find a definate answer for you and I can't remember really; try putting the new accumulator, 2-3 spring, and cover together out of the car and see how the spring sits on the cover, should help you out as to orientation, or else I'm sure someone will chime in. I did get a little confused with the rooster comb install at the end and made a pic of that should help you out. I had mine in park when reinstalling so my roller was on the park notch I marked.

http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/6001/jmod1ay1.jpg
 

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i have some of the jmod parts. I bought them and never used them. $20 shipped for them. Includes blue spring and the piston.
 
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