1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6 red
I am back after a very long time. I no longer have the 1995 or 1996 Thunderbirds. Me and my wife were missing them so we decided to look around for another MN12. My wife saw this green 1994 T-Bird and had to have it. It has 57,000 miles and the previous owner did "the PI Swap" to it.
Now I am doing a lot of research to make sure it involved with this swap. It runs fine except when it is cold the idle drops so low it stalls. This symptom only lasts for about 30 seconds.
I did find unused ports on two vacuum trees. I connected the climate control line and plugged the rest. I a 1994 Ford Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual in the trunk, that is nice but photos of how vacuum lines run along the firewall would help too.
Good to be back.
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Thanks. Yes it is the one in Houston. I showed the ad to my wife and she said we should buy it. I was shocked, she never said that before when showed her cars for sale.
Looks like my hardline is broken in multiple places. My idea of getting brass tubing is starting to look good. I just need to bend it without kinks.Yeah, it's hard to see what's going on. Yank the air intake tube and poke around a little, it's much easier to see the routing with that out of the way. The EVAP is a plastic hard line that runs along the top of the passenger side valve cover from the back of the plenum, then jogs across to the passenger shock tower and goes into the inner fender along the frame rail.
Here's a pair of images - one that I annotated to help show what and where, then another without the annotations so it's easier to see everything.
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It looks like the EGR/FPR lines were rebuilt using universal hoses and a T fitting in your diagram, that layout is fine, as is using the port they’re attached to. There’s no rule to which port is being used on the plenum, they all pull the same amount of vacuum, so in the case of the PCV/EVAP just run a line from the plugged port on the valve to the plugged port on the plenumYep. I was looking the photo diagram Brandon posted (thank you!). That red set of lines doesn't belong on the PVC, it goes to the first port on the TB. Oh boy indeed.
$5.00 pancake breakfast?? I'm in..I bet they would honor the price if you have the card...Just did a cold start and it is behaving perfect. No more stalling after tapping the gas pedal.
A big thank You to all that helped me.
I pulled the back seat and found a 1995 penny, a french fry fossil, a blue thingie and a ticket for free pancakes. Just in time for Easter. Joy!
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The idle is fine smooth as silk and tapping the gas it responds normal and with no hesitation. The the throttle is cracked slightly via the idle adjustment screw. That would explain why I and to adjust it down to achieve 0.98 V at the TPS. At this setting the idle was too low to stay running. So I set the idle screw back to were it was and this also caused the TPS to read 1.03 V.If the IAC is toast, usually it manifests as the car starting then immediately stalling with no associated sputtering. The way to be sure is to crack the throttle slightly when starting; if it runs (better) slightly off idle, the IAC is a suspect.
For the first few moments after a cold start, the PCM is operating in open loop - relying only on feedback from the MAF sensor to set the fueling while the O2s warm up. Is the original MAF on the car? Has it been cleaned recently? If it's still running lean, that could explain the rough idle and stall as soon as you tap the throttle.
With all vacuum leaks addressed you can pull the PCM fuse or yank the battery for a couple minutes to reset the KAM, to force the PCM to relearn the ISC_INTEGRATOR values for the IAC.