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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 1994 Super Coupe 38,xxx miles. I needed to do an engine swap. I replaced the harmonic balancer and the crank bolt. Now the car shakes at idle and at high RPM (+4k). The weird thing is that it seems to shake more while in reverse and neutral. I have brought it to a mechanic who said firing order is good and timing seemed fine and also motor mounts looked good. He said it sounds like a vacuum leak. So I sprayed carburetor cleaner around the engine around hoses and clamps and the intake manifold. I found one leak, which I replaced the hose. I cleaned the MAF sensor, used throttle body cleaner; used Sea Foam, and Berrymans fuel cleaner. I scanned codes that lead me to replace the EGR pressure sensor (transducer). Now it doesn’t show any codes. I have done the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) test and the Key On Engine Run (KOER) test, and the cylinder balance test which all test good. I tried running the car with the MAF sensor unplugged with no difference (except it smelled like it was running rich). I checked the transmission fluid, which was low, so I filled it. I have done an oil change on the car (immediately after the swap; before starting it). I also just replaced the fuel filter. What are things that I should look more carefully at? What am I missing? As a side note, what would be the first things to notice if a transmission is running low on fluid? Any and all help is appreciated, “Intellectual anarchy is encouraged, and nurtured. ” Thank you all in advance.

-Allan V Quote by: Jerry Doyle
 

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does the balancer wobble ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have looked at the balancer and it seems fine. I would see it wobble by looking at the crank pulley right? When I have looked at that I would stand by the drivers front tire with my feet in front of the tire (so if the car moved forward it would run my feet over) and try to focus on the edge of the pulley. It seems to spin true. Is that a pretty accurate way to try to observe it wobble? I also wondered if it was the supercharger or any of the accessories, so I took off the accessory belt and the jackshaft belt and ran the car with no change.

-Allan V
 

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yes thats how you check, it kind of sounds like a engine mount problem, my 95 did the same thing, shake in reverse and neutral and some in park.

the engine mounts in these cars are notorious to break. they are liquid filled, and may look good from the outside but are problably collapsed on the inside. a quick way to check is to see how hard is to change the oil filter, they get so worn that the filter becomes really hard to change, if thats the case you could rub a hole in your oil pan.

btw try posting your question over at sccoa.com , theres a lot of people there with more knowledge than me and could help you out more.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
89tird- Thanks, the mount i will keep in mind, along with SCCoA.

I just edited my original post... I Also just replaced the fuel filter.

-Allan V
 

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Also check the flywheel and torque convertor bolts, make sure they are tight and seated correctly.
 

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Did you make sure the balancer was for a SC V6, and not a NA V6? The SC V6 are internally balanced, and take a 0 bal damper and Flywheel. The NA V6 do not.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Today I was driving and the Check Engine Light came on. I scanned the codes which gave me code 324 (I think that’s the number) saying that the EGR pressure sensor (transducer) was had too low of a voltage. The car did not seem to shake as harshly once the Check Engine Light came on. (I did not clear the code because I wanted to see how it ran with the light on).

Buckcreekbilly- I torqued them down when I torqued the bell housing bolts, but I will go back and triple check now that it has been running. Thank you for the idea to re-torque the bolts.

392Bird- I did not order the part. My dad (known here on TCCoA as Allan) ordered the Balancer from our local Napa. I did not cross-reference the part once I picked it up to make sure it was correct. I just talked to my dad about the balancer. He checked the receipt and remembered that the Napa catalogue does not specify a difference in the harmonic balancer in the N/A V6 and the Super Charged V6. I had installed the harmonic balancer for the N/A V6 on my Super Coupe. I’ve only gone to Napa twice. This makes both times an occasion where I'm unsatisfied. :( The other time I considered going to Napa they didn’t even carry the tool (stud extractor). Thank you very much, I would have never have looked into the harmonic balancer being wrong (considering I never knew of a difference). I will keep you updated as I continue.

-Allan V
 

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I guess I relied too much upon the parts look-up. The counterman knew it was an "R" code (SC) engine. His parts look-up system didn't differentiate anything under the harmonic balancer section. The only note it listed was "with California emissions". Being that this car is originally from Massachusetts, it does have California emissions.

It wasn't until your post Bruce, that I did some research and found that there were 3 balancers previously available for 94 Thunderbird V6s:

-Engine code "4", Natural Aspirated with California emissions
-Engine code "4", Natural Aspirated without California emissions
-Engine code "R", Supercharged

Obviously my son has the first one on there now. He's going to get another new bolt and put the 44K-mile balancer from the original engine on for now. At least the car won't shake itself apart anymore. Hopefully the balancer will stay on there. I'm planning to send out the original engine to get rebuilt. That's when we'll get a BHJ balancer.

Thanks everyone,
-Allan

P.S. : Son, you spelled "finnshed" wrong.
 

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bhj is the way to go, with the longer bolt.
 

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I do not know alot about the SC engines, but was just lucky that was one of the tid bits I did know. :) Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Dan-Previous owner had blown the head gaskets. My dad brought it to our friend Nick who is a mechanic to do the gaskets. I drove down to Cape Cod for the July 4th weekend and on the way back it was overheating so I didn’t take the chance and I towed it back to Nick's garage. When he went to pull it in the garage it started knocking really loud. So I swapped in a 120K mile 1992 super coupe engine we had.

I’m in the middle of removing the crank bolt I will update after the swap. Any tips for taking the bolt off? I can’t keep the pulley on with the belts because when I use the extension for the socket the bolt strips even though it is a six-point socket

-Allan V
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I changed the harmonic balancer back to the old one. They don’t even look the same. I don't know how I missed that. It runs smooth and doesn’t shake. The car revs very nice too. I am truly impressed. Thank you everyone for your help, especially 392Bird.

The only problem now is the Check Engine Light. I scanned the codes and it gives me code 327: something about low signal voltage from the EGR Pressure sensor (transducer) (Which I just replaced). When I was testing to see what was wrong before, when I unplugged the sensor it would say it was low voltage. When I plugged it back in, the code said "higher or lower than expected". But since I swapped it out it just reads "too low." I’m probably going to open another thread for this.

-Allan V
 
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