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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just got what I thought were Reman Romeo PI Heads (SWAP COMPLETED)

and the cams are Windsor , is this OK .

Also for the people here that have done the head swap could you give me some
tips on setting the cam timing and anything else that comes to mind for the swap ?

Head Rf-xl3e-6090-c20d
cams are xl3e-6c255

Thanks
 

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take the hood off......its much easier.....hehe.....just messin witcha :)

are you doing it with the engine in the car, or taking it out? i woudl think taking it out makes it easier to torque down the headbolts, IMO....especially for those final 85-95 degree turns....gotta make sure you have the leverage, and the space to complete the full ~90* turn in one motion

the head gaskets are bank-specific....when you take off the first head, immediately place the new headgasket on top of the old one and make sure all the tabs/holes line up and point in the same direction.....after you find the correct gasket for that head, then do the same with the other head/gasket......once you go on to do the second head, the remaining gasket will undoubtedly be correct for that bank (assuming you did the first one correctly), but still gotta make sure the tabs are pointing the correct way (towards the front of the car, as opposed to the rear, for example)

i had to re-tap the exhaust manifold threads on my used PI heads....bolts would not go in freely.....a tap is quite cheap.....torque down the bolts in sequence (after applying hi-temp thread sealant to the threads), then go over them several times, until you feel that no bolt has loosened up and your torque wrench immediately "clicks"....that reminds me....i replaced the studs with bolts, hence why i mentioned "bolts" at the top of this paragraph....standard metric hex cap bolts with a small washer underneath (couldnt find any flanged metric hex cap bolts)

turn the crank keyway to the 10:30 position or so (puts all the pistons below deck--safe mode) like so:



mark the passenger timing chain with the slot at the bottom of the crank gear, like so:



mark the passenger timing chain and the sprocket at the dimple...it will be in this exact position if you set the crank keyway at 10:30, like so:



then mark the driver's side timing chain at the dimple on the cam sprocket like so:



now remember, at this point, you'd have to take off the passenger side timing chain and that first crank gear (stock it is a two-piece deal), to be able to mark the driver's side timing chain and the remaining crank gear.....that way each timing chain has two marks, at the crank gear and at the cam sprocket....then you can place them out of the way, remembering to place the marks accordingly with the cam sprocket and the keyway, and not the other way around

since you have windsor cams, there's no way you can mix them up....the one with the holes in the sprocket goes in the passenger side....the just position the dimples in the same orientation as when you took off the stock cams...and just put the respective timing chains back on their side, lining up the lower mark with the mark on the crank gear, and the upper mark with the dimple on the cam sprocket

anything else, just ask :thumbsup:
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Guitar maestro , I'm going to do the swap with the engine in the car .

Thanks for the tip really makes sense with the pictures .

:thumbsup:
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK , I do have one more question , how do you move the cams to the right position .

What tools do I use .

Thanks
 

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Romeo heads you could tighten the bolt on the cams to move it .. but since the Windsor is pressed on, id say put the bolt in the crank and move that instead.

- Dan
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
SCTbird1994 said:
Romeo heads you could tighten the bolt on the cams to move it .. but since the Windsor is pressed on, id say put the bolt in the crank and move that instead.

- Dan


One of my co-workers is telling me to use a ratchet and turn the cams that way .

Will this work ?


Thanks
 

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well you could start by taking off the the valve covers first.....so with the front cover/crank pulley/bolt still in place, put a ratchet on the crank bolt and turn it clockwise til you see both dimples on the sprockets at approx. the position you see in the pics...then you're good to go with removing everything else
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
guitar maestro said:
well you could start by taking off the the valve covers first.....so with the front cover/crank pulley/bolt still in place, put a ratchet on the crank bolt and turn it clockwise til you see both dimples on the sprockets at approx. the position you see in the pics...then you're good to go with removing everything else
Sorry I was talking about the new heads (cams) before they get installed on the
block .

How to turn them to get them in safe mode before I put them on the block .

Thanks
 

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cjchevez said:
Sorry I was talking about the new heads (cams) before they get installed on the
block .

How to turn them to get them in safe mode before I put them on the block .

Thanks
yea you can fit a 3/8" ratchet in the back of the cams and turn them that way......i keep forgetting that yours are windsors, hence no cam bolt in front
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
OK ,

so my parts list for the swap is

Head changing kit
Pi intake
Intake gaskets
Water pump nipple
Water pump tube
180* thermostat

Am I missing any parts , anything you GUY'S used that I might need .

Thanks
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Oil plug question

Cool ,

I have another question regarding the oil plugs , I'm not sure but I think
my heads have the plugs on the front and the back .

What am I really supposed to look for ?

edit , I had the freeze plugs mixed up with the oil plugs .

Thanks






 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
OK , looks like I'm ready for the swap .

Tomorrow my uncle is going to come over to oversee my work and help out
with the little things .

Wish me luck .
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Pi head swap update for Sat 02-03-07

Well today was not bad at all .

I got the heads out , the pistons cleaned , exhaust manifolds are on the PI heads
and got the pi nipple in the water pump .

Tomorrow I'm going to install the heads and try to finish up before night falls .
But if I don't finish I will call in sick or something , he he ;)

Can I get some pics of the temp sensor relocation please .



Thanks guys ..
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Regarding the temp sensor , how easy is it to drill and tap the crossover with out shop tools ?
 

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Temp sensor

There is a boss next to the T-stat housing that can be drilled and tapped. You can remove the aluminum crossover from the plastic intake with a couple bolts on the bottom side of the intake. Then you can chuck the crossover in a vise to hold it while you drill and tap it..... Works best on a drill press to keep the hole drilled and tapped straight but it can be done by hand if you're careful. Don't tap the hole too deep. If you do the sensor will bottom out on the top of the crossover before the threads tighten up and seal. Good luck with it....
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Head swap Sunday 02-04-07

Today went slower then yesterday .

The heads and the power steering pump are on .The front cover is on but I need
the top 8 bolts . I also have Windsor heads so I need new valve covers .

I made a T for the second Temp sensor from the npi nipple tube .
Theres a place for a sensor thats plugged on the tube .

Tomorrow I need to get the 8 top timming cover bolts and valve covers .

I'm almost there .
 

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Faster than Porkchop
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Pi Swap Complete!!!

Its done!!!;)
 
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