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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
few things i didn't know about......

1. stock coolant tube has a sensor on it that people say is for the defroster temperature, that the new PI doesnt have.....i have no heater core, so i didn't worry bout that one

2. the NPI gaskets CAN be placed on the PI intake and allowed to set PRIOR to setting the intake in place on the cylinder head ports......all i did was put a 1/4" bead of hi-temp RTV on the parts of the intake runners that needed it, placed the NPI gaskets on the intake (while the intake was upside down)......pressed down on them to make a good seal, and placed the entire intake upside down between two boxes, and placed two heavy encylopedia books on the gaskets so RTV would dry evenly, and not lope the gaskets to one side.....with the RTV dried, it can then be slide underneath the fuel rails/injectors without having to disconnect them....i just had my dad hold the rails/injectors up while i slid it in

3. the pass. side fuel rail did not sit down properly because the hard white fuel line that goes to the drivers' side (around the rear vicinity of the engine, not the front one) hit the [taller] intake runner that it is near......the rear pass. side injector was a good 1/4" from the actual intake manifold itself.......had to separate the fuel lines where they are 'connected' together with small welds on the metal parts.......this allowed the fuel lines to separate at that metal junction and this finally allowed me to finish the swap

don't have pics, but will definitely have some soon so everyone can see what i'm talking about

a million thanks to Jurgen, who helped me out tremendously with this swap, and the C&L plenum swap....i will also get pics of the mod he told me for the brakes w/o drilling plenum

since the machine shops here were way overpricing me to drill/tap the aluminum Xover, i bought the 9/16" drill bit, and the 3/8" NPT tap and tapped it myself....zero problems.......so if anyone needs their Xover tapped, just send it on over:)
 

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Real Ultimate Goatse Hunter
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I would try and put the gaskets on the heads first.. this way you have alot more pressure when setting that RTV sealant.. the ports don't match on the intake side so I would go for more pressure then a few books could provide. But if it works then more power to ya. :)
 

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I sort of did the same thing with the gaskets.

I put the gaskets on the intake manifold, used my finger with a large amount of RTV, and spread it underneath the gasket in the thin spots.

No leaks so far.

-Andrey
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
NRL said:
I would try and put the gaskets on the heads first.. this way you have alot more pressure when setting that RTV sealant.. the ports don't match on the intake side so I would go for more pressure then a few books could provide. But if it works then more power to ya. :)
yup...i'm just reporting these results from the swap that i did last monday before i left to South Padre Island for Spring Break......i drove it around quite a bit beforei left, and no air leaks or anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
no they don't because they were designed for Mustangs without vacuum assisted brakes

the "jurgen-mod" was super simple.....buy a 94-95 PCV valve.....it has two fittings just like the 96-97s, except the smaller one on top is not blocked off......you can use this top one for the metal evaporator vacuum line that normally gets it's vacuum from the rear-facing-side of the plenum, simply by running a short 8" piece of vacuum hose from the PCV to the metal line.....so now the rear vacuum port on the plenum is free, and the rubber hose from the brakes fits right on it....perfect size

i forgot to get a pic of it, but i will get one tomorrow
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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we just did the swap on frank's car, and while we didn't have a problem with the fuel rails, or the sensor (we re-used his replacement cross over that was already tapped).

However, we did need a 90deg fitting and some hose, as the coolant tube inletwas moved from the passenger side head to the driver's side.
 

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so all and all what did you guys spend and need? I am sending out my MO today for my 2003 PI intake with metal crossover and I wanan know what I need before april 3rd. I also paid like 115 shipped for it. Good price? thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i went with new NPI gaskets, PI coolant tube, (2) 5/8" heater hoses pre-bent at 90* (one for the water pump nipple-to-PI coolant tube, and one for the coolant outlet at the rear of the intake manifold)---keep in mind i have no heater core so you may not need both of these, 3.0 oz tube of hi-temp RTV, and a few 5/8" hose clamps

if you carefully remove the rails without the injectors falling off, you can do it all without disconnecting the fuel lines from the rails as i did....just have someone hold up both rails when you slide out the old manifold, and put in the new one
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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Yeah, but as me and frank learned Sunday, getting the old nipple out is a *****! It didn't help that paul kept pounding it the wrong way, either. :leftright
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yea i bought the water pump nipple but was running low on time, so i didn't even end up using it

call up Dan Newman and he'll hook you up with all the prices/part #s
 

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<pre>Part# Description Retail Cost
XR3Z-18B402-AA Coolant Hose $25.97 $19.48
F1VY-8507-A W/Pump Gasket $ 3.21 $ 2.41
F75Z-8555-AA Tube $ 7.55 $ 5.66
1R3Z-10153-AA Alt Bracket $15.96 $11.97</pre>
 

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Formerly Fdawg97LX
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3,186 Posts
here's what i used:

ford parts:
pi heater tube (hardline)
npi gaskets x2
water pump nipple
waterpump o-ring
t-stat o-ring

the waterpump o-ring and t-stat o-ring aren't neccessary but are cheap insurance. we didnt end up using the new t-stat o-ring when we did it because we didnt have to remove the t-stat. Like greenbird said, it was kind of a pain for us to get the stock waterpump nipple out but i wouldnt skip it, just leaves room for more leaks.

from autozone:
90* elbow
1-2' of 5/8" rubber heater hose

the autozone stuff is needed to connect the heater core hose to the pi coolant hardline that runs through the valley. the reason for this is because the pi hardline exits the valley at the back of the driverside head and the npi hardline exits the valley at the back of the passenger side head. this was real simple to do.

also if you have the updated npi intake with the aluminum crossover just swap that to your pi intake instead of getting the pi crossover tapped. its easier and cheaper (i know a local shop around here wanted $35 to tap it). also if you have the updated npi intake with aluminum crossover you dont need to buy the new alternator bracket, you will already have it.

Frank
 
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