TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have the K member dropped. The plan is to cut away the parts that interfere with the new oil pan and the driver's side header.

While I'm at it, does it make sense to go ahead and weld up the seams that aren't totally welded? Would it harm anything to do that?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,662 Posts
It wouldn't harm anything, but I doubt it would make any noticeable difference. I think that time would be better spent making bracing to go from the LCA to the front strut rod mounting area, and from the subframe to the frame rail. Doing that bracing on the lemons car made a HUGE improvement in handling.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It wouldn't harm anything, but I doubt it would make any noticeable difference. I think that time would be better spent making bracing to go from the LCA to the front strut rod mounting area, and from the subframe to the frame rail. Doing that bracing on the lemons car made a HUGE improvement in handling.
Tell me more about that. Where would I put that bracing. A bolt on thing isn't really necessary since this is going to be a full time track car unless it is necessary to make it removable to get to other stuff.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,662 Posts
The goal is to brace the lower control arm mounting area to where the strut rod attaches to the subframe to prevent that strut rod mount area from deflecting under load, and then also brace the subframe to the frame rail at the bottom, since with it only attached at the top, you can have deflection in the subframe itself, which can change the alignment angles under load, and especially under braking. On the lemons car, I used 1" square tubing since it only has to box everything in and roll bar tubing would be way overkill, and I just welded everything in solid. Doing it that way, you can still remove and install everything except the subframe itself, or the rack. I figured both of those things are so rarely changed that if you do need to remove them, you can just cut through the tubing and re-do it, and actually the rack could be changed without cutting it if you removed the inner tie rods first, but it literally took me less than an hour to measure, cut, and weld all 4 pieces, and I think the 1" square tubing was under $20 at home depot.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The goal is to brace the lower control arm mounting area to where the strut rod attaches to the subframe to prevent that strut rod mount area from deflecting under load, and then also brace the subframe to the frame rail at the bottom, since with it only attached at the top, you can have deflection in the subframe itself, which can change the alignment angles under load, and especially under braking. On the lemons car, I used 1" square tubing since it only has to box everything in and roll bar tubing would be way overkill, and I just welded everything in solid. Doing it that way, you can still remove and install everything except the subframe itself, or the rack. I figured both of those things are so rarely changed that if you do need to remove them, you can just cut through the tubing and re-do it, and actually the rack could be changed without cutting it if you removed the inner tie rods first, but it literally took me less than an hour to measure, cut, and weld all 4 pieces, and I think the 1" square tubing was under $20 at home depot.
You don't happen to have any pictures do you?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #7

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,662 Posts
Actually on the lemons car, I am running the same headers as you, and there are no clearance issues between the headers and the bracing.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Actually on the lemons car, I am running the same headers as you, and there are no clearance issues between the headers and the bracing.
Well, I'm really talking about attaching the supports to the frame rails since the collectors are in the way if I have to drill any holes.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,662 Posts
Oh yes, I didn't do any of that, so you may need to remove or at least loosen and move the headers.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,662 Posts
LOL! Then in that case, forget the bolts and just weld the bars directly to the subframe and the frame rail, and you should have no problem doing that with the headers in place.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
LOL! Then in that case, forget the bolts and just weld the bars directly to the subframe and the frame rail, and you should have no problem doing that with the headers in place.
Well, I could weld some tabs on the frame rails with bolt holes in them using 1/4" stock then bolt the tubes to that. The original owner of my car had the stupid undercoating stuff on the car so I have to grind that down to get to bare metal.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I finished cutting out the back of the K member today. As much as I want my pneumatic cut off wheel to work well it just can't compare to a cut off wheel on my Dewalt angle grinder.

I've marked the lines in yellow where I plan to weld in plate. I marked red lines where I'm considering removing more material with orange lines where I would add gussets if I removed that material. Any thoughts on where else I would want to reinforce it?
 

Attachments

·
The Parts Guy
Joined
·
7,357 Posts
I'm late to this thread, but here are a couple pics of the bracing I made for my XR7. Hopefully it'll help.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,914 Posts
I finished cutting out the back of the K member today. As much as I want my pneumatic cut off wheel to work well it just can't compare to a cut off wheel on my Dewalt angle grinder.

I've marked the lines in yellow where I plan to weld in plate. I marked red lines where I'm considering removing more material with orange lines where I would add gussets if I removed that material. Any thoughts on where else I would want to reinforce it?
I notched my kmember and welded plates in as gussets so it could fit a 7qt extra deep oil pan on my lemons car. It was very similar to yours.

The only thing that scared me slightly was that with the 7qt oil pan installed, the lowest thing was actually my oilpan.

Had I kept the 7qt oil pan, I would have welded a footlong chunk of metal (maybe a 1/2" or 1" square tubing) transversely to the underside of the subframe to have something else hit/deflect track debris -- it's lemons after all -- instead of my oil pan.

I never installed this transverse piece though because I eventually went back to the 5qt pan because installation of the 7qt pan required that drop the subframe slightly and that slowed down trackday engine swaps).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I notched my kmember and welded plates in as gussets so it could fit a 7qt extra deep oil pan on my lemons car. It was very similar to yours.

The only thing that scared me slightly was that with the 7qt oil pan installed, the lowest thing was actually my oilpan.

Had I kept the 7qt oil pan, I would have welded a footlong chunk of metal (maybe a 1/2" or 1" square tubing) transversely to the underside of the subframe to have something else hit/deflect track debris -- it's lemons after all -- instead of my oil pan.

I never installed this transverse piece though because I eventually went back to the 5qt pan because installation of the 7qt pan required that drop the subframe slightly and that slowed down trackday engine swaps).
Is there a reason you didn't go with the T shaped 7 qt pan? That's the reason I'm gutting the K member. The deep pan sits too low so I plan to use the T shaped pan with the baffles in it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,961 Posts
Is there a reason you didn't go with the T shaped 7 qt pan? That's the reason I'm gutting the K member. The deep pan sits too low so I plan to use the T shaped pan with the baffles in it.
You already have the pan? I think I have another custom-made Mark VIII oil pan that holds 7 qts with no modifications to the k-member. Just like the one Grog bought from me. :wink2:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,613 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
You already have the pan? I think I have another custom-made Mark VIII oil pan that holds 7 qts with no modifications to the k-member. Just like the one Grog bought from me. :wink2:
Well, if I had a MK8 then that might prove useful. :nerd:

When I put the 347 in the car all of those years ago I tried to use a bigger pan but it would have required a modification to the K member to get clearance and I just didn't have the know how or general skill to do that so I didn't do it. I'm older (and wiser?) and know how to do it now so that's why I'm revisiting it.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top