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Discussion Starter #1
Well, since about 4 yrs, my remote entry had stopped working on the driver's side, and i never got it fixed. Probably the actuator.
Now, since a few months, i have had trouble getting the door to open with the key itself. It's really hard to turn, but will turn and unlock eventually. No problems opening the door from the inside.

Yesterday, the key would not turn AT ALL. No matter how hard i tried... it inserts easily without any problem, but not turn at all - not budging. I was afraid to exert too much pressure on it - I don't wanna break the damn key. Had to get in from the pass. side and open the door from inside...
The key is an original.

So do I need to replace the door lock?
or...is there an easy fix? Shall i spray some WD40 into the key-lock-cylinder thing and see what happens?
 

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My dad sprayed some stuff in there, I don't think it was WD-40 cause it attracts dust, he did it to both doors & trunk. They open pretty good now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
thanks - might be some penetrating fluid or something like that? so where did he exactly spray? just into the hole where you insert the key?
wonder if i should also spray some into the door lock pins also...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey thanks a lot, man
....I think i actually have some penetrating fluid somewhere...just have to find it.
I wonder if the MAF/Carb cleaner would also work...
 

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Oh and you could also spray some on the key and try, and see if that helps any. and no problem. I have no idea other than MAF cleaner worked good, on my MAF, haha that thing was DIRTY!
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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When I first started driving the T-bird, both lock cylinders had seized. The key would go in fine, but you could not turn it with any amount of force without bending the key.

Initially I tried shooting them up with PB B'laster, WD-40 and graphite lock spray a few times a day. The driver's side broke free after a couple days, but the passenger side saw no sign of improvement over the course of a week.

I then removed both lock cylinders and examined them; there was a LOT of white-silvery oxidation/corrosion over the tumblers and the inner cylinder was corroded to the outer housing cylinder. After a combination of soaking in Liquid Wrench and picking away at the oxidation with a small screwdriver, I was able to completely free and restore the driver's lock cylinder and 5/6 tumblers in the passenger cylinder.

I now make sure to regularly lubricate the locks with graphite spray to keep all the moving parts lubricated and protected from further oxidation/corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Very good advice. Thanks both of you. Can one get graphite lock spray at Auto zone or walmart?
and I guess you have to remove inner door panels to get the cylinder out, huh?
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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You should be able to get it at either place, I know we carry it where I work at Home Depot in the tools/hardware area. There are generally two types; one that comes in a small Orajel-like tube and one in an aerosol can with a straw. I have the latter form.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks - if i can't find the pen. lube that I had, I will look in wally world, as I have to go there today anyway. The straw, i bet, comes in handy when spraying into a small opening. That's why i thought of the CRC carb/MAF cleaner I have...it already has a straw...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
UPDATE;
I found the Prolong Super Penetrating Fluid spray in the basement - with the straw and all - sprayed into the key hole, and a bit on the key also, and tried - IT WORKED ! :) it turned and opened almost like new! I sprayed some more and wiggled the key back and forth and opened/closed several times for good measure...

Thanks again. This will be routine maintenance from now on.
 

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Sounds like a good idea, I need to check mine. For the last 10 years I've just used my alarm remote to lock/unlock the doors and haven't even stuck the key in there for that long.

I'm going to get rid of the trunk cylinder when I get my car painted but I want to rig up a hidden manual release cable in case the electric latch ever fails. Cant go in though the back seat because of the amps being mounted there. if I ever had to get in that way it would be a mess.
 
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