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Discussion Starter #1

^Koni coilover next to the Tokico blue and Eibach it replaced

Had a few races to try my custom Koni coilover setup. They work great. 650 lb rate springs are amazing on these cars. It's astounding how fast it changes directions now. Where before there was plenty of front end dive and roll, it's now way flat



The only problem being now, it seems that Koni has discontinued the 8649-1201, the front strut for our cars. After I got them installed the first time, after driving around the block, one of the struts had blown out all it's oil. I will say they that Koni was able to get mine repaired in time for the first race
 

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The tube and collar are from Summit, they're supposed to be for Bilstein SP series struts, but they're the right size for this application. The top seat is a custom piece milled out of aluminum. It pays to be part of a fire department that has a fabrication shop
 

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The tube and collar are from Summit, they're supposed to be for Bilstein SP series struts, but they're the right size for this application. The top seat is a custom piece milled out of aluminum. It pays to be part of a fire department that has a fabrication shop
Thanks!

The top seat shouldn't be a problem, I've got a lathe. ;)
 

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Hrm, I've never studied coilovers before and I wanted to see if you could explain their use to me.
I see that ride height may be adjusted by that ring that essentially is the lower perch from the spring.

Does this style of coil over allow you to adjust it while the spring is under load and the coilover itself is installed the car? How is that possible considering a standard spring/strut assembly requires a lot of force to compress the spring? Is this because a coilover's spring is significantly smaller in diameter?


I've heard of some kinds that allow adjustment of ride height on the track but I wasn't sure if you can do the same with the ones you bought and I'm curious to learn how it works.

Thanks in advance,
-g
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The main reason I did it was so I had more options for spring rate. These are over 200 lbs stiffer than the Eibachs they replaced. The ride height is adjustable as well, which would probably be more of a benefit for a road race car, or maybe a more street driven car with track duty. As my car is more or less committed to auto duty, I've just set my ride height here I want it (And where it's high enough for my door to clear the tire on my trailer lol)

There's a special bearing that can be installed between the bottom perch and the spring, that makes it way easier to adjust the spring. Another nice thing about these is they don't require a spring compressor to disassemble. So it would be possible to change the spring rate trackside. The ride height could easily be adjusted during a pit stop. There's a spanner wrench that fits into a notch on the lower spring perch, and easily adjusted. The struts are easier to adjust, just a little dial on the top of the shock.

I also took some pictures of the top seat. I got it lathed out so it would fit on a stock upper rubber perch



 

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I have what is called, torrington bearings in between my spring and bottom nut.

 

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I didnt read all of the post. What brand are the 650 lb springs? Are they 2-1/2 ID? What length?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
They're 10 inch, 2 1/2 ID, QA1 springs. 650 as the highest QA1 had, and anything higher than 650 was about double the price per spring, so 650 was where I started
 

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I have what is called, torrington bearings in between my spring and bottom nut.

Thanks for the explanation, I believe i understand now.
Unlike the stock setup, the bearing will allow to bottom perch to move independently of the spring. You can then compress the spring and lower the ride height by moving the lower perch. Interesting!

If I understand correctly, you need that custom machined top spacer b/c the overall length of the spring is shorter than what's required in the tbird application, right?

Q: Do you have an equivalent coilover system in the back since the rear shock is separate from the rear spring?

If so, what's it look like?

-g
 

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I'm going to have to do this, too bad it will have to be with Tokicos :bawling:
I'm thinking Koni racing inserts; summit carries a bunch, but they're pricy...

How do you get spec sheets for the racing inserts from Koni? There has to be a way.

Then we just have to find an appropriate shock body to mount it into. And appropriate spring perches, of course.

I hate to waste cash on shocks I'll hate; nothing else feels like my konis +sport springs.

With the Konis and bracing I got from JL, it's solid as a rock, even with stock swaybars; I want this for my other cars. :)
 

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Thanks for the explanation, I believe i understand now.
Unlike the stock setup, the bearing will allow to bottom perch to move independently of the spring. You can then compress the spring and lower the ride height by moving the lower perch. Interesting!

If I understand correctly, you need that custom machined top spacer b/c the overall length of the spring is shorter than what's required in the tbird application, right?

Q: Do you have an equivalent coilover system in the back since the rear shock is separate from the rear spring?

If so, what's it look like?

-g
I have not tempted to put coil ovrs in the rear, in fear of too much stress on the lower control arm shock mount.

Also, I don't plan on having my rear settup for too long, as I want to back halve my car.
 

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Does the coilover setup provide room for wider tires/rims? I look like it might since it looks like the overall package has a lot smaller diameter.
 

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Does the coilover setup provide room for wider tires/rims? I look like it might since it looks like the overall package has a lot smaller diameter.
No, coilovers wouldn't provide any more clearance because there is still a spindle in the way.
 

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No, coilovers wouldn't provide any more clearance because there is still a spindle in the way.
That's right, it is the spindle where it attaches to the upper a arm, not the flange on the bottom of the shock that is in the way.

Thanks! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hindsight being 20/20, what I should have done, or if these Koni inserts start to have problems, it would have probably been easier to fabricate a bracket to mount a conventional coil over shock in place, rather than deal with the Koni swap and coil over conversion, but it's what I have, and I do love it.



I hate to waste cash on shocks I'll hate; nothing else feels like my konis +sport springs.

With the Konis and bracing I got from JL, it's solid as a rock, even with stock swaybars; I want this for my other cars. :)
If you've already got Konis, this upgrade is easy, it's just a matter of removing the lower spring perch, and slipping the threaded collar on.

If I understand correctly, you need that custom machined top spacer b/c the overall length of the spring is shorter than what's required in the tbird application, right?

Q: Do you have an equivalent coilover system in the back since the rear shock is separate from the rear spring?

If so, what's it look like?

-g
Negative, The top 'spacer' is more of an adapter to use the replacement coil over spring with a factory rubber mount. I figure that way should be better for component life, and less transmission of road noise. If the spring was shorter, the bottom sleeve could be adjusted up as necessary.

In the rear I'm still using to stock setup, with Tokico blue shocks and Eibach springs. The Eibachs are almost as stiff as they come, and I didn't want to buy new springs for an extra 20-30 lb rate. I also contacted Eaton springs, and was quoted $3500 (!) for custom rear springs. I can't go to coil overs on the rear secondary to the class rules for SP cars in Solo 2. I can change the spring and shock, but can't change the mounting points.
 

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We need to find a new insert from Koni or someone else, that we can build a shock around.

Koni makes a range of racing inserts; It's possible we could find something that would fit...

Would DOT approval be a problem for this plan? :)
 
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