I'm not sure what all you're looking for, but I've got lot's of pix.
Here's the headers installed and clearance, or lack thereof, keep in mind these are the 3" collectors and big pipes:
Now, here is the downpipe collector the exhaust guy fabbed:
His intention was to use a straight downpipe to a cat, but because of the length of the headers and how far down they ended, he realized that it would put the pipes and cats too low, for his comfort. Here's the collector with a straight downpipe ... visualize the cat and a 90* bend and you'll see what the problem is:
So, we ended up going catless and he rigged a collector/downpipe with a bend just below the collector to keep the pipes tucked up high where they are safer and protected by the chasis:
This is what my exhaust looked like with cats before it was adapted for the Kooks:
This is what it looked like installed after the Kooks mod:
If you compare my set up to Scott's new set up you can see how much closer to the floorboard my pipes are. I had the luxury of being able to delete the cats, Scott didn't, and he is blown, so he cannot afford to have the tight bend next to the collector, or any tight bends for that matter.
My exhaust worked out fine for my old N/A application and is more than sufficient for any N/A setup, and most blown applications. However the 2.5" pipe, the tight bends after the collector, and all the other non-mandrel bends will be a big cork for my new intercooled T-Trim application. So I will be getting a new exhaust system... 3" duals or a 4" single similar to Scott's, or some other concoction Scott's exhaust guy comes up with.. It will be stainless and mandrel bent.
And yes my old exhaust system, stainless Borla mufflers (Boo-Hoo :bawling: ) and tips and all will be for sale. For anyone out there with 3" Kooks it's a simple bolt on, pass the word.
I can tell you that the starter is accessible for removal and replacement. It was about the only thing I did not replace BEFORE dropping the engine back in with the Kooks, and wouldn't ya know it, the starter crapped out a week after the install.
I didn't do it myself, but the tech at Ford replaced it and said it was not bad. He even put the top bolt in..
Other stuff is really tight, but Scott pulled GB's engine and trans out with the Kooks on (with one hand) from the top, and put Cougie's engine and transmission in with Kooks on from the top, so it can be done.
Take a look at your engine mounts. Mine were totally shot and collapsed, you can see the wear marks on the metal:
With clearances as tight as they are, the engine sitting lower could possibly be an issue. I replaced the OEM's with Richey's first generation solid rubber mounts and they actually are about .17" taller than the OEM, and don't collapse.
Did the extra height help with header clearance?.. that I don't know either, but I may find out. I may have to use the new generation rubber mounts or OEM's because hood clearance is now my bugaboo with the new setup.
I'm pretty sure Scott has OEM mounts, so he can chime in on header clearance with the stock mounts. We all know what he did for hood clearance:
Yah I got brand new set of OEM mounts, was gonna go the solids but I had this set setting here and no one was biting, so I figured WTH...I don't have any clearance issues and I still have the padding on my stock 96 hood. I got a Cobra hood here for when she gets resprayed one of these years... so Clearance up on top I'm not worried about... I really can't think of anything else that would be in the way on the lower besides the Starter... Did you have to extend the harness for the 02's?
Now, I'm thinkin about issues with my car and the motor mounts. Since I'm probably sitting .25" higher than you guys with Kooks due to my NM12 solid rubber mounts.....Will I have clearance issues at the steering shaft or with the firewall? This might actually make me swap mounts and get the RIGHT ones. I don't plan to do the Kooks over the winter....but maybe later next year if I still own the car
Read my earlier post again... I had the first generation MN12 (Richey's) solid rubber mounts (the taller ones) initially with the Kooks and they were fine.. Richey claims they are only .17" taller. You should be fine.
I am anticipating the need for more hood clearance with the SVO intake and blower plumbing, so that is why I may have to go to the shorter mounts... not for header clearance, but to drop the engine to give a bit more room up top. But we're only talking less than 3/16" difference...
Hey guys, it has been quite a while but it's good to be back!
I am in need of some guidance regarding a recent engine swap in my 97 bird.
The back story:
It has been quite a while since I have posted, mostly due to the fact that my motor exploded roughly 6 years ago. Since then the car has...
I've been screwing around with this all day. Short of removing the cam, is there any way to get to the lower head bolts on this car? My socket wrench (all 4 that I've tried) is obstructed by the shock tower. I had a hell of a time removing one of the valve cover bolts on the bottom, but...
Hey guys; I've been posting in a few threads talking about the various mods for our cars, and I thought I'd start a thread where we could pull a bunch or the info together, and link to the various Howto threads.
So, in our best free-for-all fashion, lets discuss the various mods, and kick...
07-25-2005 Post removed due to off topic chest pounding!
This thread was about a 5.4L DOHC installation that another member was planning to develop as a kit for the Thunderbird. Due to the overwhelming bashing by Jerry's crew the kit was canceled.
Why do you ask this happened. The story...
I was talking with my father the other day about engines, he's trying to teach me the basics and how they work. He's doing a great job of explaining these things to me, but now I have a question for you guys based on things that he told me.
Our V8s produce roughly little over 200 horsepower...
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