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Discussion Starter #1
I have just completed installing a pi intake manifold on my 1997 4.6 bird. All vacuum lines and electrical leads appear correctly reinstalled. As I turned on my ignition to fire it up for the first time, I can hear the whine of my radiator cooling fans istead of the usual whirr of the fuel pump prime. Why is this happening? The fans were not touched when I removed the old cracked intake manifold. So now , with fans spinning , the engine just cranks and cranks without even a pop. The enertia button is pushed down , but I cannot hear the pump prime over the fan noise. I would like to know what is causing my fans to come on when I turn on the ignition. I am assuming the engine somehow thinks it is running hot and is operating the fans, but what do I undo to correct it? I cannot find any loose electrical leads. The sensor on the water line near the firewall is attached. I drilled and tapped the aluminum crossover and that connection is solid. Which could be signalling the fans? Could this cause a problem with ignition?
 

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Usually the fan comes on when the coolant temp circuit has no input. The coolant sensor for the PCM is a gray connector. For the gauge it is green. Make sure that a) the sensor works (test with an multimeter, make sure it has a resistance reading) and b) there is voltage present at the connector to the sensor.

Have you done the fuel and spark checks? You can just unplug the fan and listen for the fuel pump or check for pressure at the rails. I'd then check to see if you have spark and that the injectors pulse when you crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Kranking

Funny, before my manifold cracked, my car was running just great.
Now, I just checked the shrader valve right after cranking and there is no fuel pressure. So if the running fan wasn't blocking the sound , I would not hear the pump prime either. Could the inertia switch become faulty? And my fans always worked perfectly before.
 

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It's possible but unlikely. Have you checked the fuses in the box under the hood (#13, 20A)? There is one for the fuel pump. Also check the intertia switch in the trunk. Aside from the fuse and inertia switch, power gets to the pump via the fuel pump relay in the CCRM, so that's a potential problem. But start with checking everything else first..

As for the fans, if they worked fine before then logic dictates that something has happened from before you started the swap until now. Since you did an intake manifold swap and the only thing you touched in terms of wiring would have been the engine wiring harness, and since the only thing relating to the cooling fan in the wiring harness is the coolant sensor, it must be that something is wrong with either the wiring or the sensor.

Or, another possibility is that the CCRM has gone south and is causing the cooling fan to run continuously AND is causing no power to the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
kranking

Current status is: crank position sensor connection appears tight, tach does not move while trying to start, no fuel pressure, inertia switch has been reset twice,
fans come on at high speed setting during key-on and cranking, all under-hood fuses are intact. The car was running great prior to the manifold crack, when spraying coolant also caused the #5 & #6 cylinders to missfire. I backed it into the garage and started the removal process. I did take my bloody time about, and over two months later, I finally tried to start it yesterday with no success.
There seems to be something really amiss in the electrics. Please , throw me a bone here!
 

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No tach movement means no signal from the PCM to the tach. This could be because the crank sensor or wiring is no longer working or the PCM isn't working. Does the CEL come on when the key is turned on? If not, there's no power to the PCM. If the fuses are ok, then again it would seem the problem could be the CCRM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No CEL

The dash lights all come on except for the CEL,which is not as it was when last running. Also, I hooked up my scanner with the results being that there's no response, my reader flashes that it gets no input , check that ignition is on, even though the ignition is on. I think we're getting close.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
krank

Having checked a lot of posts in TCCOA, it seems that several people have swapped out CCRM's without getting a fix. Is there something inside it to check or replace? Is there any other module or controller that can un-power the computer too?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ccrm

If the CCRM did in fact go ape, is the symptom simply that suddenly things go haywire? What are the low to high prices I can expect to have to pay for a replacement? Could some of you guys who have replaced your CCRM's give me some feedback as to your results? thanks man.
 

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Different things can happen depending on what goes wrong. Since it is just a box full of relays, the relays will either not come on when they are supposed to or not go off when they are supposed to. In your case all your different issues have the CCRM in common. Parts store pricing will be around $100, and it is listed as the relay control module or body control module. Junk yard will be cheaper but no guarantees there.
 

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did you by chance disconnect the blockconnector on the left side of the engine compartment?
it may be as simple as checking here first, by the way you describe the fans constantly running tells me something is not connected properly, sounds like a ground issue. also check the grounds at the battery post area too.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
kranky

Tonight I removed the CCRM from my 1997 bird and installed it into my daughter's
1996 Thunderbird. As badly as my car was acting, her car started and ran perfectly with my (I thought it was broken)CCRM installed. Ughhh. Now I am mystified. I will re-read all your posts and see what I can do.
 

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a few thoughts, pick a place or a failure and resolve it, stop trying to fiz all the symptoms at once, the fans, usally will come on if the temp sensor is to ground, thats how they work, make sure you have the same sensor inplace and you havent pinched the signal wire to ground, lets focus on one fix first.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
kranky

Read the beginning.I replaced an intake manifold. I am thinking nothing has broken.There must be a weak ground or non-existant ground that is allowing channeling electricity to the wrong places.One possible culprit is the bracket on the passenger side cylinder head.I used one of its two holding bolts to attach the coolant tube to the driver's side head.I did not have another bolt to fully attach it, and the bracket has a factory black coating.Let me know what size so I can easily purchase another. On that bracket is an electrical connector with at least three wires coming out.Can anyone tell me what it is?That is where my next checks will be directed.As for the climate control sensor,I used all brass hose fittings between both hoses.It has no ground at all yet,but that is not within the loop of the fuel pump/cooling fan/computer. The first thing I did last week was check under hood fuses. All are good.
 
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