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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, ive got a quick question...i installed rods rstb along with my V-brace & L-brace, Question is where do i connect the other bottom part of the L-brace? i got a 97 tbird and the seatbelt studs are a few inches in front of the holes, so i just attatched the top and bottom bolts, below is a picture.

 

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You'll have to weld in studs or use some big sheet metal screws, 97's didn't come with studs there like the previous years.

BTW they're supposed to be mounted behind the deck sheet metal rather than in front of it.
 

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You can also weld in the L-braces to compensate for the fact that the studs aren't there, but I would go with welding in studs. You need to sandwich the top of the braces behind the upper sheet metal for them to perform properly
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You'll have to weld in studs or use some big sheet metal screws, 97's didn't come with studs there like the previous years.

BTW they're supposed to be mounted behind the deck sheet metal rather than in front of it.
I was just looking at a picture of trunkmonkeys (i believe) and i noticed that lmao...i was like hmm i think their put on wrong, so both the L-brace & v-Brace go behind the sheet metal deck right?


You can also weld in the L-braces to compensate for the fact that the studs aren't there, but I would go with welding in studs. You need to sandwich the top of the braces behind the upper sheet metal for them to perform properly
I was thinking of drilling a hole and attatching bolts but i dont know whats under there lol, does anybody have a picture of what the studs should look like? so i know what im doing.
 

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The L braces are supposed to replace the V brace I think to run both, you need to modify the v brace somewhat. I think chris murder has done this. The old studs where used for seat belts on 89-93 cars, and the L braces behind that area AFAIK is the fuel tank
 

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I had to cut notches in my V brace to fit with the L braces.

Also, the 1994/1995 Super Coupes came with the studs to mount the L braces, and a cross brace that went across the bottom, Bolts in the middle where the V brace does .. ;)
 

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Technically all 94/5s have the studs, tbirds and cougars. I'm thinking the Ls with the V will be more robust than that crossbrace thing(It's been a long time since I've seen it, so I could be mistaken) This back seat bracing is all about torsional rigidity, the V and Ls do some nice triangulation back there.
 

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The L braces are supposed to replace the V brace I think to run both, you need to modify the v brace somewhat. I think chris murder has done this. The old studs where used for seat belts on 89-93 cars, and the L braces behind that area AFAIK is the fuel tank
I run both along with the bottom crossbar bolted in from my SC fold down seat. They both can be bolted on barely it's difficult but not impossible with factory hardware. My v-brace is also boxed for added strength. My car is a 97 so I had a friend weld the inside of the holes where the large bolts and studs go directly to the floor while my tank was out for my walbro 255 fuel pump. I ran them for a while with nothing holding the seatbelt holes you circled down other then the seats. I suppose you could also use a few washers and/or short self tapping sheetmetal screws to fasten them down if you don't want to weld them in or weld in the studs that the early models have. The early fold down seats have a bar that bolts them in also along with the v of the v-brace for more strength. Basically I have all of the bolts that the v brace uses, all of the bolts that the L-brace uses except the seat belt studs, mine are welded to the floor in that spot, my seat/cross bar is bolted in, my v-brace is boxed to reduce further flex, and I have a rstb, fold down SC seat, and transition carpet cut around the v-brace. Dispite the full fold down space it is still helpful, I've had to fold the seat a few times for awkward cargo. IMO it's worth the lack of full fold down for the added bracing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I run both along with the bottom crossbar bolted in from my SC fold down seat. They both can be bolted on barely it's difficult but not impossible with factory hardware. My v-brace is also boxed for added strength. My car is a 97 so I had a friend weld the inside of the holes where the large bolts and studs go directly to the floor while my tank was out for my walbro 255 fuel pump. I ran them for a while with nothing holding the seatbelt holes you circled down other then the seats. I suppose you could also use a few washers and/or short self tapping sheetmetal screws to fasten them down if you don't want to weld them in or weld in the studs that the early models have. The early fold down seats have a bar that bolts them in also along with the v of the v-brace for more strength. Basically I have all of the bolts that the v brace uses, all of the bolts that the L-brace uses except the seat belt studs, mine are welded to the floor in that spot, my seat/cross bar is bolted in, my v-brace is boxed to reduce further flex, and I have a rstb, fold down SC seat, and transition carpet cut around the v-brace. Dispite the full fold down space it is still helpful, I've had to fold the seat a few times for awkward cargo. IMO it's worth the lack of full fold down for the added bracing.
Well alright then ima just get some self tapping sheet metal screws and some good size washers to screw down and hold the sections i circled above, how long of screws should i get? then later on down the road i will weld the L-brace fully on.

Chris you should post a picture of your set-up, i would sure like to see it.
 

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Short, very short!
 

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Q: What does the L brace "brace" against? Lateral forces or vertical forces?


If the idea is that the braces are supposed to prevent any "flexing" from square in that area (where the lateral forces turn that gap from being rectangular to more like a parallelagram), wouldn't you want the bottom potion of the L to be permanently "affixed" to the bottom of the tub?

I'd be worried that with a self tapping sheet metal screw (which distorts the metal in order to work its way in) wouldn't be the best item to resist lateral forces (vs a vertical force that would try and pull the L's tab UP away from the body. I could see that slipping.


Plus, underneath is the fuel tank, right? Personally, I wouldn't want to continue trying to work a pointy self-tapping machine screw down in too far....

-g
 

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I agree sheet metal screws would be the last on my list to use but between them or nothing I'd pick them. The area in question is plenty sturdy and is fairly distant from the gas tank compared to the other mount bolts(where the seatback mounts), it's 3 layers of sheet metal, the floor, the underfloor box section and reinforcement plates...

Photos courtesy of _95badbird



 

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Discussion Starter #16
Installed them correctly and it looks good now lol heres some pics.




Only thing is now my stereo is lame again with no bass lol, ima buy a 4chan amp and get some power to my apline type-s.
 

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Maybe that's why that brace squeaks, lol.

My 96 had the bottom studs...
 

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Maybe that's why that brace squeaks, lol.

My 96 had the bottom studs...
Thats funny because i didnt do anything to hold that area down yet...i was looking into welding it on but i may just use some sheetmetal screws... now that i have installed the braces i can hear some groaning in that area..i suspect its comming from the braces, hopefully it'll quite down when i put the screws in.
 

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Trying to weld it is useless nothing down there is worth trying to weld together. Have studs welded to a metal square plate then have that welded on and this would be the best solution I could imagine possible. The other cohice is todo it from underneath have it welded under the car and in your area doing a clean job is priority. This is much more work of course. Either way its going to be work to get it done right.
 
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