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Well I am in the garage now and kicking my self in the butt. The manual says that I should loosen the mount bolts, done. Then remove lca to shock bolt. Struck me odd since there is a ton of pressure but maybe I don't know.

So I got out the front end kit that has the punch and used it to push the bolt through, except the shock immediately pushed down further when it got passed the first part of the shock.

Frustrated and still working on it but in need of help. I cant even put it back together at this point. I am going to try compressing the springs. I want to replace the shock and lca.

Also raised the other side and tried to lower the lca jack and it still did not help. Jacked up part of the shock and its not aligned to get the bolt out. Even if i did the assembly could not come out......

Any help would be appreciated.....
 

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Well i am n thegarage nowand kicking my self in the butt. The manual says that I should loosen the mount bolts, dne. Than remove lca toshock bolt. Struck me odd since there is a ton ofpressure but he maybe I don, know.

So i gotout the front end kit that has the punch and useditto push the boltthrough, except the shock immediately pushed down further whe it got pased the first partof the shock.

Frustrated and still workng on it but in need of help. I cantevenputit back togehter at this point. I am going to try compressng the spings. I want to replace the shock and lca.

Also raised the other side and tried to lower the lca jackand it stilldid ot help. Jacked up part of the shock and its not aligned to get the bolt out. Even if i did the assembly could not come out......

Anyhelp would be appreciated.....

Might need a pic.

When I pulled the shocks/springs on the two Cougars at the $100 sale, I didn't have ANY of this problem - matter of fact, they just about fell out when I released the three bolts at the top.

Dunno why you'd be releasing anything BUT the shock bolt, if that's what you're replacing.

RwP
 

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Where do you have the car jacked up from?

Try putting a stand on the 'frame' and use a jack under the control arm to put it where you want.

Also, pop the sway bar link at the spindle so movement of it is easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I got the bolt out and immediately the spring pushed the shock on the LCA. Now I am kinda stuck. I am trying to compress the spring but its not working since I can only get one side really. I have a jack stand helping keep pressure off the strut and LCA. I don't get how the spring is not a factor when removing the shock assembly according to the Haynes manual.

Where do you have the car jacked up from?

Try putting a stand on the 'frame' and use a jack under the control arm to put it where you want.

Also, pop the sway bar link at the spindle so movement of it is easier.
Frame is on stands. Jack under ball joint of LCA and one under single side of bottom shock assembly.
 

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You didn't remove the nut in the upper center of the shock mount did you? Because that would explain your problems if you did.
 

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I gotthe bolt out and immediately the spring pushedthe hock on thelca. Now i am kinda stuck. I amtrying to compress thespring but its not working since i can only getone side really. i have a jack stand helping keep pressure off the strut and lca. I dont get how the spring is not a factor when removing the shock assembly according to the haynes manual.



Frame is on stands. Jack under ball joint of lca and one undersingle side of bottom shock assembly.
Please check your post before pressing submit. It makes it easier for everyone trying to help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sorry all for this thread. I apologize. My uncle came home and me and him used a saw to cut the front lip of the shock assembly and managed to slowly swing it to the rear side until it came all the way out.

Here is what happened. I started the job (pass side shock tower) and noted the Haynes manual said to loosen the 3 mount nuts and the center if your replacing the whole assembly. I did that. Than the next step was to remove the LCA to Shock bolt and nut. I got the nut off and had trouble with the bolt. I than remembered everyone telling me I need a Pittman arm puller and it fit perfectly to push the bolt through, so I did that and than the rear side of the shock came down further and now my bolt is crooked and wedged in on the front side.

I grabbed my ipad (hence the bad typing, and I am on my computer now) and brought it out with me and came here. I saw a post when I searched for 'shock lca bolt' that said.

There are ways of doing it without a compressor: get the front of the car on stands and put a jack under the LCA, undo the center bolt from the upper shock mount and SLOWLY lower the jack until the spring is loose. Then remove the lower shock bolt on the LCA and pull both out. Repeat for install.
So what I had at that time was a jack stand on pass side frame, jack on the frame as well, and one more jack holding up LCA ball joint to spindle. I could have sworn I did what that post said so I took it literally to mean the entire front end. Stand on the driver side and I try it again. Well no go.

You didn't remove the nut in the upper center of the shock mount did you? Because that would explain your problems if you did.
My best guess is I did this because of the quoted post I found and something probably backed it up in the Haynes manual. The book has a installation and removal of shocks, section 4. Section 5 is about installing shocks. It's weird because they seem to give different advice. No one is to blame but me of course.

I know I ended up trying to swing it off like everyone said in the posts. I than removed the three smaller nuts and after a lot of spring compression, crying, and hurt wrist later here I am.

OK so for the other drivers side I have a pretty good idea to start with removing the LCA parts except the bolt to shock tower and than just letting it freaking fall.

However I am still trying to fathom how to remove the strut from the LCA without removing the whole LCA or strut (strut looks like one solid piece, another part I am clueless about). Also I just realized how stupid I am and that the hole in the center is big enough to leave the nut on the assembled part as well as the part your taking off. :facepalm:

Anyway sorry again everyone and if anyone has advice I am all ears. I feel like the biggest noob in the world right now. I freaked out, sorry.
 

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You only remove the small mount nuts on the top of the whole assembly going around the center nut. You do not remove the center nut/washer; that holds the whole assembly together. That should be dissasembled/assembled with a spring compressor. They can do that for you in a shop; the ones you rent at autozone etc. are not safe for those springs. Once you remove the mount nuts your remove the lca/shock bolt. You should be able to maneuver the whole assembly out from there fairly easily. Unbolting the uca ball joint and end links does make it easier but i'm pretty sure if i remember you should be able to remove it without unbolting those. The new assembly should go in not too bad might need to pry it straight some if the mounting is off a little. Make sure the new assembly's center nut is screwed down a little looser then the removed assembly but not super loose or it will be harder to get in as the length will be longer the looser it is. Once everything is back on the ground you can torque everything to specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Appreciate the response.

I am going to go back to the job and remove the LCA. I note that everyone is saying to torque it down with the weight on the vehicle. Is this only for the frame bolt/nut or for the spindle bolt/nut as well?

Still wondering about the LCA to strut, but hopefully that will become apparent as I remove it.

I wanted to do the links, sway bar bushings and struts to, but I thought it would be better to do this one step at a time (because I run into stuff like my OP). Also RA has two options for sway bar bushings and I am not sure what size I would need. I know I have the sport option all J's. is there something I should measure to know the size according to what RA offers?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK new problem.

The Haynes manual says to loosen LCA to spindle nut than separate LCA ball joint with tool. I am assuming they mean take it off the spindle, but how do you do that with it just 'loosened'.

Regardless the next step is to remove nut that attaches the tension strut to the control arm. It also says to use a open end wrench on the tension strut itself but not at the bend. Even while using the additional open ended wrench the whole strut moves when I try to turn that nut. I am using a deep socket on the nut with a breaker bar so I have enough power there, I just can not keep the tension strut from turning with my turn. I put some pb blaster on it and am letting it soak for now.

I think the search here does not work if you do it for 3 characters or less and lower control arm came up with nothing that helped me out. I am feeling dumber and dumber as this goes on.
 

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You're not going to want to hear this, but what I have found working on suspension parts is that an impact gun is mandatory. Even an impact gun is slow to back that tension rod nut off. It vibrates back and forth the whole time.

I started a strut job when I first got the T-Bird. Didnt have air tools, so I tried to cheat by not removing the tension rod. Was glad to get it re-assembled so I could drive it to a buddy's place that had air tools to do the job before I ruined anything else.

If you attempt to finish the job with hand tools, the only place a jack should be sitting is beside the car waiting to jack it down off jack stands. It is not needed under the suspension parts.

Good luck!

Al
 
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