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I have started my gradual LED conversion. I am converting all the interior light bulbs to led bulbs first. (not messing with glove box, ash trey, instrument cluster etc, just main lights)

Next I want to convert my running/turn/brake lights to leds. There are many resistors sold on ebay to keep from getting hyperflash with the leds. They let the computer know that there is a load so it isn't fooled into thinking that there is a bulb out since the LEDs pull significantly less current. Does anyone know what wattage resistor to use?

I upgraded the license plate 194s to 194 LED and it makes things look MUCH better! I also upgraded my headlights to silverstar Ultras a couple weeks back as well. I can definitely see much better too!

I've been busy with my baby. New lower ball joints 3 weeks ago, new heater core 2 weeks ago and new lights now. Not to mention I'm replacing the last unreplaced part of my front suspension this week. The left sway bar end link. All my new parts have come with lifetime warranties too, best way to go :D Hoping for some autocross this spring.

(sorry for the ramble at the end lol)
 

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You don't need them for the computer - just the flasher module.

My suggestions and take?

Don't put them on the rear lights.

You only need them for flash, and the brake lights don't need it - with the way the MN12 is wired, you can load on the front if you wish.

Let's put it this way - each 3157 lamp pulls 27 watts, less the wattage the LED pulls. You'd actually want a 6 ohm 50W resistor for ONE bulb changed, 3 ohm 100W for two bulbs changed (or two, 6 ohm 50W resistors in parallel.)

You can by some, with mounting ears, so you can find some convenient chassis point to mount them to (like the radiator front panel, the frame rails, etc.) to help the power dissipation. I found some on eBay for $6 a pair (6 ohm 50W).

(Yes, you MAY be able to use 25W if you put them on the front only, and chassis mount them - 50W 3ohm for two bulbs. That's pushing it, gives no reserve margin, not what I'd like to recommend.)

THAT said - you should be able to use a EP27 LED-compatible flasher on a 1997. Lemme check the wiring.

EDIT: RockAuto lists the EP34 electronic module for your flasher - $9.40 plus shipping (less 5% discount) and you're set. Cheaper than two sets of resistors. Or one pair of 3 ohm 100W resistors.

The Ford Service Information DVD says that module does both hazard AND turn, so you should be golden by swapping that out. :ENDEDIT

RwP
 

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Beer and Cheese
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Ralph is right you just need the flasher module.

here is a video of mine.

18-LED Tower LED for front and back with led flasher module from Superbrightleds.com

 

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Not to mention I'm replacing the last unreplaced part of my front suspension this week. The left sway bar end link. All my new parts have come with lifetime warranties too, best way to go :D Hoping for some autocross this spring.

(sorry for the ramble at the end lol)
lifetime warranty :zbash:, I take the Tommy Boy movie stance on that. I hope that warranty helps you feel all warm and toasty inside, but quality parts don't usually need a "lifetime warranty"

Straight from the movie with the one naughty word removed for TCCoA.

Tommy: Let's think about this for a sec, Ted. Why would somebody put a guarantee on a box? Hmmm, very interesting.
Ted Nelson, Customer: Go on, I'm listening.
Tommy: Here's the way I see it, Ted. Guy puts a fancy guarantee on a box 'cause he wants you to feel all warm and toasty inside.
Ted Nelson, Customer: Yeah, makes a man feel good.
Tommy: 'Course it does. Why shouldn't it? Ya figure you put that little box under your pillow at night, the Guarantee Fairy might come by and leave a quarter, am I right, Ted?
[chuckles until he sees that Ted is not laughing]
Ted Nelson, Customer: [impatiently] What's your point?
Tommy: The point is, how do you know the fairy isn't a crazy glue sniffer? "Building model airplanes" says the little fairy; well, we're not buying it. He sneaks into your house once, that's all it takes. The next thing you know, there's money missing off the dresser, and your daughter's knocked up. I seen it a hundred times.
Ted Nelson, Customer: But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of &!%@. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.
Ted Nelson, Customer: [pause] Okay, I'll buy from you
 

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I rather like the exchange between Sally Forth and her husband, Ted, at a Sears store, looking at the Craftsman tools.

Ted: "Yes, I need this! And it's got a lifetime warranty on it!"
Sally: "So, when it breaks, they come to our house and kill you?"
Ted: *looks at tool*
Ted: "You take all the fun out of tool shopping."

RwP
 
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^^Now thats a trip!
 

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In my opinion, leave the stock tail light / stop light bulbs in there. I put in sweet LED replacement bulbs (good quality, not ebay) in my daily driver. Both bulbs overheated and melted, causing the bulbs to totally fail. Brake lights are critically important, so do not mess with them. In my opinion it would be fine to swap out the 3rd level brake light bulbs because they are on so little, but leave the main two brake/stop light bulbs alone. It's not worth the risk of being rear-ended on the highway at night because your LED bulbs failed and you didn't know.

I'm a big LED fan too. I would limit LEDs in the license plate bulbs, interior, 3rd level brake, and maybe the front signal lamps.
 

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PostWhore, The AFDB is on a lil tight.
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Mr Murder you have a great point, motorcraft doesnt come with lifetime warranties because the parts work. A guaranty of a lifetime of changing out hte parts is more like what you can expect. Yeah I have the so called lifetime BS here and there but thats not why I bought it. Ill be reinstalling lifetime endlinks sometime, again didnt buy them for that bought them because no others were available locally.
 

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In my opinion, leave the stock tail light / stop light bulbs in there. I put in sweet LED replacement bulbs (good quality, not ebay) in my daily driver. Both bulbs overheated and melted, causing the bulbs to totally fail. Brake lights are critically important, so do not mess with them. In my opinion it would be fine to swap out the 3rd level brake light bulbs because they are on so little, but leave the main two brake/stop light bulbs alone. It's not worth the risk of being rear-ended on the highway at night because your LED bulbs failed and you didn't know.

I'm a big LED fan too. I would limit LEDs in the license plate bulbs, interior, 3rd level brake, and maybe the front signal lamps.
After reading about the upper brake light's tendency to melt the light body with the heat from the stock bulbs, and the associated fire risk, I fitted led bulbs to that a couple of years ago. I completely take the point about LED's in the normal brake lights. I wouldn't have thought of that risk. However:

On ebay bulbs/safety in general, I bought a pair of normal headlight bulbs on Ebay a couple of years ago (as the bulbs aren't available in the shops over here in the UK). I had them in the car about two weeks, and I was driving down a twisty country lane where there was no street lights. I pulled on the stalk to use the flasher on main beam for a couple of seconds to illuminate a bend, and when I let go of the stalk BOTH of the headlight bulbs went out COMPLETELY! I was left moving at 40mph round a blind bend in total darkness on sidelights only! It was pretty terrifying I have to say. The stupid chinese bulbs both totally failed as they couldn't handle the heat from having dipped and main beam filaments illuminated at the same time - even for a couple of seconds. In a South Park voice "I leaned something that day":rolleyes:
 

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Thanks for the input guys.

I don't expect parts to last forever, but for me, I feel good knowing I won't pay for them again.
You definitely won't have to pay for them again when a lower ball joint fails at speed.... that's for sure. :eek:
 

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In my opinion, leave the stock tail light / stop light bulbs in there. I put in sweet LED replacement bulbs (good quality, not ebay) in my daily driver. Both bulbs overheated and melted, causing the bulbs to totally fail. Brake lights are critically important, so do not mess with them. In my opinion it would be fine to swap out the 3rd level brake light bulbs because they are on so little, but leave the main two brake/stop light bulbs alone. It's not worth the risk of being rear-ended on the highway at night because your LED bulbs failed and you didn't know.

I'm a big LED fan too. I would limit LEDs in the license plate bulbs, interior, 3rd level brake, and maybe the front signal lamps.
I'll chime in that a QUALITY LED won't do that. Cheap Chinee crap may.

Second point for the OP - get BRIGHT ones.

I'm using a pair I got from SuperBrightLEDs - http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/315x-x3W.htm - albeit the previous version without the "Brake light blinker". They are as bright as 4157 lamps. They are also COOLER than 4157 lamps (thermally).

I have several others, including a set of these - http://www.ebay.com/itm/140363177955?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 . THOSE - brake lights are about the same intensity as the TAIL lights on 4157 incandescents. NOT a good choice for brake lights, IMO. (Tail lights were dimmer ... )

And, amazingly, they DO get hot.

Be sure to carry a spare set of bulbs.

For the front turn signals, I'd use matching units to the ones from SuperBrightLEDs.

Headlights - A projector retrofit, or figure out how to convert to 9005/9006 (quad) bulbs. After that, you can do like I did - run 9012s low, and either 9011s high or HIDs high. Alas, HIRs aren't available in dual filament ... http://www.finemotoring.com/

A lot of the eBay special LEDs do not make good connectivity going down the road, alas. Caveat emptor.

RwP
 

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Don't buy from Autolumination.com! I bought the 25 tower SMD bulbs and they melted due to overheating. The company wouldn't stand behind the product. I don't have a pic, but on the end of it, the actual LEDs have melted off and slid down the circuit board. They overheated, the solder let go a bit causing one of the wire leads to pull off and disconnect.

 

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I'll chime in that a QUALITY LED won't do that. Cheap Chinee crap may.

Second point for the OP - get BRIGHT ones.
..
Headlights - A projector retrofit, or figure out how to convert to 9005/9006 (quad) bulbs. After that, you can do like I did - run 9012s low, and either 9011s high or HIDs high. Alas, HIRs aren't available in dual filament ... http://www.finemotoring.com/
Ralph, that site looks like they dont keep it up very well. Got into this discussion on headlight bulbs on blazerforum and shook out to the Phillips HIR versions cause Toshiba's arent around anymore.

I looked at Amazon and the reviews: HIR are good.. no GREAT, compared to Silverstars.. except the need for the reflector caps in housing to avoid retina burnout of folks directly ahead.
What's your experience with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Pulling out this old thread for an update. I love the LEDs, but haven't had cruise control since they were installed. Actually installed the EP34 flasher, still no cruise. Anyway, I just got some resistors and will install them this week. However, I'm now thinking about doing the alternative flashing light mod. Does anyone know if that could just make me lose cruise all over again after installing the resistors?

FWIW, I will have 4 resisters, one for each corner.
 

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I'm gonna bump this thread with some more info for anyone else who may be searching for this topic. If you're changing brake or signal lights with LED, do not buy anything off of eBay. There's only two plug and play LED bulbs on the market right now that are worth a damn.
1:http://www.vleds.com/v3-triton/bulb-system.html
This is the newest one on the market from V-LEDs, the V3-Triton. It uses three Philips Rebel LEDs in conjunction with an optical tube to utilize the reflector. These are fantastic.
2:http://www.elef-usa.com/apps/webstore/products/show/1677807
This is what I currently have in the brake lights of my MN12 and have had the same bulbs in several vehicles before I got my Thunderbird. These use a single 5w Osram Dragon LED with a reflector cap to utilize the vehicles reflector assembly. These work phenomenally. I have an electronic flasher and my cruise control still works great.
 

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Going to bump this old thread instead of starting a new one. Since I've got some quality time in the garage with the car I'm tinkering with it here and there. About a year ago I upgraded the headlights, 3rd brake light, dash, door and foot well lights to LEDs. Now I'm going after the dome and map lights along with the opera lights in the back seat.

For the 578 dome and map lights I'm replacing them with either of these:


or


Since they were cheap I ordered a set of each to compare. The top ones are 400 lumen and the bottom ones are 300 lumen. Both are 6,000 Kelvin.

For the #98 opera lights I ordered LUYED and Melphan-Auto lights. Aero-Lytes offers a #98 bulb but they're crazy expensive.



Again, since they were cheap I ordered a set of each to compare.
The original incandescent 98s are only 75 lumen.
The LUYED bulbs are 6,500 Kelvin and 650 lumen
The Melphan-Auto lights are 6,000 kelvin and 300 lumen
 

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I did my dome lights a few years ago, bought them off eBay and for the life of me I can't find the ones I bought to compare. :mad:

How do the dash lights behave, any issues dimming them? I haven't done mine yet.

Joe
 
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