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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thanks Steve. Hope to see you and the MTNCAT again soon too.

I talked to my boss this morning and she said there's no way I can get the time off for the SC Shootout this year. We're going to be very busy again this fall.

As requested, here's a photo of the dash with LED's. The light bleed on the temp sensor in the photo isn't noticeable in person but only appears because of the lens distortion of the camera. The overall look is much brighter and cooler because the LED's have a white point much closer to daylight than the old incandescent Edison bulbs.

As always, click the thumbnail for a larger view.
 

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Ron, what LED's did you use? I did an LED swap in my SN95 and I'm not impressed with how blotchy it turned out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I bought three packs of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L3WBDN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another thing to note is that the Airbag light will remain on after it has faded out leaving the Airbag idiot light visible. So I put a regular bulb back in that spot, now when it fades out it goes to black.

I also put them in the door lights and the foot well lights. I may put regular bulbs back in the foot wells. I like the yellow glow there better than the bright white.

The OD light and turn signals are a very nice bright color now. All of the colors stand out better now. The red's, yellow KPH markers and the blue cool indicator on the temp gauge all look more clear.

I'm kinda disappointed that the trip odometer isn't better illuminated.
 

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While on the subject

Can you use the LEDs for our turn signal, stop, etc lights without damage to the lenses. Never really thought about it till the other day. I would think they would be much brighter.

Just an old man's thought lol!
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Yep! I have them in mine, main thing is you need resistors or a new flasher to prevent fast blinking since the resistance is so low compared to the incandescents. They don’t get hot like incandescents either, so if anything they prevent the damage to the housings the old style bulbs can do - not that’s an issue on the main lights, but on the third brake light It’s common for the stock bulbs to melt it, LEDs won’t.
 

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Incandescent bulbs radiate most of the power as infrared; that melts all the plastic.

LED's emit light at certain wavelengths, none of them IR. :)

Led's put ~80% of the power into light vs. heat, with std bulbs, it's the other way.

So, LED bulbs should never cause heat distortion, unless the 12V-led driver melts down. :)

The UV emissions of Cool White bulbs may be an issue; Try it, and write us a post next year. :)

My "Sign Painter's Clearcoat" study is still ongoing, after several years, lol.
 

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Yep! I have them in mine, main thing is you need resistors or a new flasher to prevent fast blinking since the resistance is so low compared to the incandescents. They don’t get hot like incandescents either, so if anything they prevent the damage to the housings the old style bulbs can do - not that’s an issue on the main lights, but on the third brake light It’s common for the stock bulbs to melt it, LEDs won’t.

Matt, what resistor/Flasher would I need. I just might have to do this after I get the Ol Mtncat back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They also work well for the license plate lights. (Although some of you, myself included, may not want your plate to be THAT visible.) :tongue:

Incandescent on the left - LED on the right and both LED's in the photo on the Right.
 

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Matt, what resistor/Flasher would I need. I just might have to do this after I get the Ol Mtncat back up.
Either four 6 ohm load resistors(one per bulb), or two 3 ohm load resistors(one per side of car). I ordered mine off eBay, doing the one per side setup. If you deleted cruise control you can get away with just the 3 terminal electronic flasher, since cruise monitors the brake lights to operate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looks great! Aren't they amazing?
 

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I'm very pleased with how even they are, including the needles, it used to be ribbons were the way to go in clusters to achieve that. Also a nice feature with them is the terminals arent polarized like many LED bulbs.

I still prefer the incandescent's warm tone to these for the ambient lights though. In fact I moved the 2825/W5Ws I previously had in the cluster to the footwells and it brightened up those now fully black areas
 

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Ron,

You said the only issue you had was with the airbag light. The turn signals function as they should?

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes. Turn signals work fine.
 

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Don't forget the headlights and fog lights. I just replaced the headlights last week with LEDs and they are fantastic. I have the LEDs for the fog lights just haven't been under that bumper to get them installed yet. Nice thing about using LEDs in the headlights and fog lights is you cut down on the amperage being drawn through the headlight switch. No need to rewire your fog lights to a separate power source to protect the switch. Even with the headlights and fog lights turned on you should only be drawing roughly 2/3s the amperage through the headlight switch of the stock halogen headlights alone. The light seems much brighter, crisper and so far with the stock housings I haven't been flashed so the aiming is good unlike how HIDs seem to blind oncoming dirvers.

.
 

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Thanks Ron, maybe I might do the same sometime! :tongue:

I have a bunch of them left over that I bought a year or so ago, Josh did something similar with his car too. I've done the foot wells, rear plate and deck lid already. Is there a trick to the glove box light? I couldn't get that one out and didn't want to force it.

Joe
 
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