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Yes, I did a search. I still have a few questions. I've done this (oil&filter) a few times but it seems like every time I get under there it all seems new.
1)Where is the best place to jack it up, giving you access to the filter and oilpan drain?
2) What weight oil should I be using?
3) I know, don't use Fram, use Motocraft. But how do you jocky it out of there? :confused:
 

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I put the jack stands under the K-Member. That seems to work well. You can also put them under the frame rails. There is only one way to get the filter out, and that involves skinned knuckles, oil dripping all over, and swearing. There is just no other way to do it. I spent the extra money to get a remote oil filter kit for that very reason.

I used 5/20 Motorcraft. I think thats what the manual recommends.
 

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5W30 and I personally like to use ramps for oil changes and such. The filter is tough to get in and out, I will look at it more next time and try to get a better strategy, because that was the worse experience I have had working on a car right after spark plugs in a SC, spark plugs in an NA 3.8 Cougar. I would rather do the intake manifold again than change the oil.

I put the 15k miles extended drain Mobil1 in all my cars now (well, the 89 Cougar gets Pennzoil 5w30 dino because it leaks so much).
 

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I had forgotten about ramps. Change my answer to ramps. But its still a good idea to get a remote. There are a few threads around here on the subject along with a link for a pretty good deal on one.
 

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i have found that a main obstruction is the hose that goes from the power steering pump to the reservoir .....since my reservoir is not permanently mounted yet, the hose is free to move a bit and makes snaking it out a lot easier
 

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the past few times I just had my oil changed by Jiffy Lube or whatever because I heard it was a b!tch to change the filter, but now I have acces to a lift and Ive never looked to see where the filter is from underneath, so with a lift would it be relatively simple to change the filter?
 

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Its really not that difficult guys. You just gotta figure out the easiest way to route it which is by the PS steering hoses.
 

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Oil and filter change

Although the first one was a PITA, it really wasnt that hard to figure it out, it took me 15 mins my second time. I just tighten by hand, I dont see how you could possibly use a filter wrench on it.
 

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I did my first oil change this pass weekend.. and Found doing the Filter and very easy task.. I amit the car was also on a hoist.. but all and all, it wasn't much harder then changing the filter on my 5oh car.. Personally i may go get a Remote filter kit anyways is like nearly twice the price as the good ol' FL1A :) Least up here
 

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I was thinking about a remote setup, but I heard they're really hard to keep from leaking. That true?
 

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jesusraybrown said:
I was thinking about a remote setup, but I heard they're really hard to keep from leaking. That true?
I haven't had any problems with mine.



I always use pipe dope over teflon tape though.

-Rod
 

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racecougar where do you have your filter mounted at? Is that in the wheel well?
 

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I went with a remote kit also. It is actually harder to change my remote filter than the stock 4.6 when you get the hang of it. As mentioned it only comes out in one place from the bottom. First time I tired many ways top and bottom, but got so I could have the filter off and out in about 1 minute. I changed the oil and filter with no ramps, just sliding under the car a little.
 

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Bigiron383 said:
Yes, I did a search. I still have a few questions. I've done this (oil&filter) a few times but it seems like every time I get under there it all seems new.
1)Where is the best place to jack it up, giving you access to the filter and oilpan drain?
2) What weight oil should I be using?
3) I know, don't use Fram, use Motocraft. But how do you jocky it out of there? :confused:
My 2¢:

1. I use a portable hydraulic jack, placing it under the K-member (as Traveler suggests). This raises the car a lot. Use jack stands after the car is raised.

2. Oil weight -- the owner's manual states 5w30, although I've seen both 5w30 and 10w30 recommended in my 1994 Service Manual. Motorcraft's site says 5w20 is ok to use, also. Personally, I use either 5w30, usually in cold weather, and 10w30 in warmer weather.

3. After the first couple of times, you'll "remember the path" which makes removing the filter easier. Others have different ways, of course. What I do: I pack the area with paper towels, unscrew the filter, tip it so the "closed end" is down, then lead it though an area crossed with the power steering hose. After the filter is unscrewed, it takes me about a minute to get it out.

I may update #3 in a couple days, in the event the description is inaccurate; it'll be time to do the 300,000 mile oil change...

Good luck to you.
 

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dusty said:
........I changed the oil and filter with no ramps, just sliding under the car a little.
You must be a little guy then! I've got my car lowered with Eibachs, and there is NO way I can get under the car without raising it.

I've never had any problems with my remote. No leaks at all. I can reach my filter easily. Its just under (whatever that black plastic panel is between the radiator support and the bumper cover). I don't have any pics but it is very similar to Rods (racecougars) setup. Just further forward, and tilted.
 

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I was told that those remote setups are not reliable in high-horsepower or heavily modified applications. Any thoughts?
 

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You must be a little guy then! I've got my car lowered with Eibachs, and there is NO way I can get under the car without raising it.
I am 6 foot, 200 lbs but have fairly long arms. My car is lowered about an inch, but I can still reach the filter from the front and the drain plug from behind the left front wheel with the car on the ground.

I was told that those remote setups are not reliable in high-horsepower or heavily modified applications. Any thoughts?
I think Dr. Frankencougie would disagree with that statement. I believe Cougie and Gold Bird have remote oil filters.
 

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should aslo take note that those 'performance minded' remote set ups use:
flexible SS lines w/ proper AN fitings;

not rubber hose w/ clamps (okay to use, but not nearly as safe/stable as using SS)
 
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