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This is inside the rear quarters Sound treatment on the OD, Sound treatment on the backside of the ID and I ran a 4" wide strip over the top of the rear wheel wells in this location. (Both sides). I did it in three pieces to make application easier. I don't remember the exact lengths I want to say 12" to 14" long x 2 pieces and at the very top like 5" or 6" long.

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Ron,

Thanks for the pictures!:)

Is this under the rear windows or in the back trunk area?

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Yes, Joe. That's the cavity under the rear windows. It extends back toward the trunk but you can't access that part of the rear wheel wells from the trunk. Only from that cavity.
 

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That's what I thought, thanks Ron. This was my mouse house so it might not be a bad idea to bury the memories! :ROFLMAO:
 

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Install everything, but leave any Big Caps out of the circuit until you're done.

A huge Cap is a detonator for wayward electronics, lol.

It's simple; when you put in the front fuse at the battery, use a taillight bulb First across the circuit where the fuse goes.

A 3057 is good for a few hundred milliamps if it lights, and if it doesn't light, there's no problem with the pre-power supply caps.

There are caps before the power supply in the amp, and after.)

The lamp will glow briefly as the caps in the amp charge, then go out. If it doesn't, leave it there for a while, to see if it will.

If, with the amp off, a 3057 bulb is partially lit, there's likely a problem with the amp; it shouldn't draw any current really, off.
It will run down a battery for sure.

Then, if all that's good, turn on the amp power wire for ~10 seconds, listening for weird noises from the amps/speakers.

This energizes the post power supply caps.

These are the ones I made a lot of money off replacing, lol.

If you hear anything strange, turn it off, give it 30 seconds, and try again; it will eventually go away, unless something is actually wrong.

If you don't hear anything strange, try some music; don't crank it hard (80%) for a day or so, to let everything settle in.

If that's all good, add the fuses into the big caps. (use big fuses on the large caps, 150A or bigger; they'll blow if they need to, lol)

I do a lot of old equipment repair, and it's amazing how bad today's stuff is compared to 30 years ago. :)

I've had to replace caps in two amps this year; one a ~1990 2000W beast, and a 1960 tubeamp.
The tubeamp was 200% more expensive, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
Thanks so much Greg! You're little light bulb trick did the trick! I had done that on each of the amps individually and then I had to go back and do it again when I hooked them both up together. One of them is cutting out again but I think (Hope!) that it's due to heat and not another issue.

I'm not running any capacitors so that's a non-issue. Here's hoping that after a few days of running the other amp will not kick off so easily. I have another old amp in the garage but I hope I don't have to repeat the process to get it running. Worst case scenerio could I send it to you for a review and - if necessary - refresh or replacement of any old parts that need to go?
 

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Trickle charged the amps again this afternoon and they seem to be coming back to life. They both stayed on today and I took the car for a drive this afternoon for about 45 minutes, like you said, keeping the volume low until everything settles in. I'm hoping that they'll hold the charge tonight and I won't have to repeat the light-bulb trickle charge again tomorrow. I'm heading up to my brothers on Monday so that he can help with the sub-box build.

Thanks again Greg! Your input and tips are so helpful. I never would have know how to bring those amps back to life.
 

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Just a quick update on the project. Finished the box yesterday, just waiting on binding posts and carpet to wrap it with. Meanwhile, I'm learning my way around the new receivers' functions and ... realizing how bad my old Pioneer speakers are in the back seat and doors. I'll be looking to upgrade them some time in the future.

38719
38720
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Solved part of the problem with the old speakers. The old speakers (6" x 8" 3-way, Pioneer TS-A6815) are only rated down to 30 Hz and they were choking on boosted bass. I've never run these speakers before with an amplifier or a capable receiver.

Anyway, I figured out how to set the high-pass filter on the new receiver and now they sound so much better! I set the filter at 50 Hz with a 6 db slope.
 

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Solved part of the problem with the old speakers. The old speakers (6" x 8" 3-way, Pioneer TS-A6815) are only rated down to 30 Hz and they were choking on boosted bass. I've never run these speakers before with an amplifier or a capable receiver.

Anyway, I figured out how to set the high-pass filter on the new receiver and now they sound so much better! I set the filter at 50 Hz with a 6 dB slope.
Bumped the slope another 6dB to 12dB. That smoothed things out a little more.

I went ahead and ordered a pair of the JL JD400/4's to replace my old SONYs; they'll be here Wednesday. I'll run them at 200 watts RMS x 2 (Bridged) to the front and rear speakers.


The sub box carpet arrived this morning and I wrapped the box. I've got to move some things around in the trunk to fit the sub box and make final connections. Should have everything together some time late next week.
 

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Finished up the box wrap and sub-woofer install two days ago. I mounted the amps to the box today. I'm almost done with this install! I did perform a test fit and trial run of the system and it sounds amazing! The box weighed 63 lbs before I mounted the amps, distribution blocks and wire. So I'm guessing around 75 lbs added weight right over the rear axle. Despite the weight gain it should help with traction on the street. I will remove all this before heading to the track though!

38755


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38758
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Looks like a nice amp. I was considering replacing mine with a higher RMS to keep the distortion down but had a hard time finding something small enough. I might give that one a try, you'll need to let me know what you think of it when you get it all together. :)
The JL JD amps are amazing. The JD series is brand new for this year and they were permiered at the 2020 CES. They have a built in gain level indicator to help you set the gain level. It's a bit of a process but not difficult. Let me know if you'd like more information. I highly recommend them Brandon.
 

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That's Beautiful, Dude!

I would recommend one more test, when everything's in final configuration.

Using a clamp-on ammeter, read the amps off the system at the maximum sound level you can do without distortion.

Our cars have a 130A alternator, or at least mine do, lol. That's over 2500rpm, supposedly, and Our Cars have a 3x alternator ratio, so just off Idle should be capable of full power.
That's BS; I killed a battery sitting on the interstate jamming, stuck in traffic.
Replaced battery, all was good,

Car needs 20A for electronics, and point loads like the AC, Fan, and Radiator fan can add 40A+.

I'd Place the probe, and run the stereo thru it's paces, add the AC, fan, and even windshield wipers, and see where the limits are.

I'd do the stereo, then do a separate test of the "typical vehicle loads we never think of".

Find out where the "Net Negative" point is, and you know where to turn off the stereo before the car dies, lol.
I freely admit to having done this. :)

I saw the head lights follow the drums, then the car died, lol.

Thankfully, I was on a hill. That doesn't work for modern cars, lol.

So, Manual swap guys; ever start your car by popping the clutch on a hill??
 
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Thanks so much Greg. I was curious if you want my old amps. I called and left you a message about them last week. Did you get it?

Funny you should mention the alternator. I got this handy test graph when I replaced it. I thought you'd find it interesting. I'll definitely check out the limits of the system. Thanks so much for the tips!

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That looks awesome!!

I've never actually looked at the waveform, although I could, now that I think of it; alternator and starter waveforms could be diagnostic.

My Stereo in the Red Cougar draws 56ARms from the battery, at 12.4V at the amp, at the level I can love listening to in the car.
That's 5 channels, 2500W peak, 75Rmsx4 for the cabin, and 500 Rms for a 12"sub. (maximums, not at listening level)

I have shitty hearing, so 100db is a nice listening level for me; I occasionally hear something on someone else's car rattle when a sub hits, lol.
 
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