TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Lost 2 Alternators within 1 week - at WOT. NOW CAR WON'T CRANK w/ NEW ALTERNATOR!!!

Kinda speaks for itself. I've lost 2 alternators within one week. Symptoms are as follows:

Last Sunday at wot, it didn't feel quite right...a little sluggish maybe...I don't know, it just felt off. As soon as I hit 5k rpm the battery light came on (and stayed on) and by the time I reached my final destination (about 2 miles) the voltage had dropped to the point that the vehicle would stall if I tried use the power windows. No a/c, clock went dim, tach stopped working etc. Had the alternator tested and it was bad. Replaced it that day and everything seemed to be resolved...

Tonight, I experienced the same thing. Only when I was at wot and hit about 5k rpm...the battery light came on again (and stayed on). Only difference this time is the seat belt light would consecutively flash twice in 5-10 second intervals. I turned around and went home to eliminate being stranded tomorrow morning. Also all of the dash lights brightened up and were significantly brighter than they have ever been before (I wish they were that bright all the time).

I had the battery tested last week and it's fine.

What would cause this to happen...only at high rpms? I really need to figure this out quickly, as I just landed a new career that I am starting on Tuesday at a marketing firm and the T-Bird recently (but temporarily) became my daily driver. I can't afford to screw up this opportunity. I've gone through 3 weeks of interviews with them...150 other candidates...testing...and yes, they chose ME! It's exciting...sorry :) I can't let them down right off the bat.

I don't want to be changing my alternator out every weeks either. So, when I pulled in my driveway I popped the hood and the alternator itself was EXTREMELY HOT. I have a blister on my knuckle from grazing the casing. There was a slight burning odor. I started the car and went under the hood again...lowe and behold, there were HUGE BLUE SPARKS arcing inside of the alternator casing. I removed the negative terminal on the battery and the sparks got even more intense! I shut the car off and had to wait 2 HOURS before the damn thing was cool enough to take off.

Let's hear some wisdom from the gurus out there. I've been on this site for about 9 years (since the old board) and have never failed to get the answers I needed....so what kind of bad news do I have to face this time???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
That doesn't quite make sense. It's not the first time I've taken the RPMs that high. I've been to the track a handful of times...and played on some country roads even more. I think there's something more to it then that. The first one that went out lasted for over 4 years and this one lasted a whopping 6 days??? I'm pretty sure the cause is something more than simply a "cheap" alternator.
 

·
Texas Chapter Director
Joined
·
5,173 Posts
Did you get it from autozone? I had the same problem one day except I had 2 brand new ones fail on me in one day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I replaced the alternator this morning. It started fine. I went on a short drive to make sure everything was up to par and the speedometer wasn't working. I cam back home, shut the car off and tried to restart it. Now the car will not start and I have no power going to anything. Door chime doesn't make a sound, interior lights won't come on etc. Nothing.

I checked to voltage to the battery and I'm getting a full 13.1v.

I don't know what the problem could be...I've never been good with electical issues.

Ideas?
 

·
Faster than Porkchop
Joined
·
2,037 Posts
I had two stripped wires that were touching close to the the fuse box in the engine bay .
This would give me the battery light and it would not charge !

You couldn't see were it was stripped because they had a sleeve over them .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Update...

If I turn the ignition to accessory, the clock will illuminate but is very dim. As soon as I try to start it, everything dies.

Again, the battery is fully charged...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Of course I did. :) Both terminals are fine.
 

·
WOT Junkie and avid corn burner
Joined
·
3,734 Posts
Update...

If I turn the ignition to accessory, the clock will illuminate but is very dim. As soon as I try to start it, everything dies.

Again, the battery is fully charged...
Starter solenoid? It did this with my Mustang. Battery is fully charged, hit the key, all goes dead. Replaced the solenoid, all was fixed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Problem solved. Turns out it was a bad cell in the battery...and autozone claimed to have thouroughly tested it.....tried a new batter and all symptoms disappeared...except for one...

NOW, the speedometer isn't working. Is there a dedicated fuse for the speedo? Or what else might be causing the speedometer to just stop working? Does that mean the odo isn't working either????
 

·
Newbie
Joined
·
5,650 Posts
The speedo doesn't have a dedicated fuse but does share a fuse with some other components in the car. If the speedo is the only thing that has stopped working, it could be several different things. But you are asking us if the odometer isn't working...How can we answer that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks...and yes, the fuse was blown and it keeps popping new ones. I tried using a 15a fuse but it still popped. Hmm..
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top