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So I reversed out of a driveway and then threw it in first and floored it (maybe it's just me being a teenager??) anyways i heard a loud bang (maybe from the rear?) and now the car won't start completely. I heard the engine start but it doesn't stay for more than a couple seconds. My friend and I were able to push it while in park and drive. Does anyone have any idea if it is the driveshaft or transmission or some gear or what? I drive a 92 Tbird LX 3.8l v6.
 

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The Parts Guy
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Without taking a look under the car, it's all just a guess. If you're able to roll the car while the transmission is in "park", it is something between the transmission and the rear tires (trans, driveshaft, pinion gear, or halfshaft).

The fact that the car won't restart...that worries me a bit.

And don't do that anymore.

-Rod
 

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check the distributor. when mine went it would idle like a drag car. if i hit the gas it would not idle up. it just sounded like a gun was goin off. my opinion is its in the ignition somewhere. something like this also happened to my buddy's camaro.
o crap i did not notice the beign able to push it in park part. well, thats a funny one.
check the rear and driveshaft. man what did you do?!?!?!
 

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Well it does start, like you can hear it catch. But it vibrates a lot and it shuts off quickly. the transmission was solid as far as I knew, but you can never be too sure with such an old car. I actually can't look at it because it is at the shop. I'm mostly just looking for an estimate on repairs. As much as I would love to pay for this hefty (hopefully not?) repair, I have a girlfriend to pay for!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Haha nice sound. It's harmonic.
Anyways my car only starts for up to five seconds. Can anyone at least tell me if it is under $750 repair? My parents will kill me if it is any more than that...
 

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it has to be. it cost me less than that to take a motor out of one bird and put it into another. then again i did not have to buy many parts. but really you have to have it checked out before you will know. im sure there are lots of people on here that will have parts ant good prices. there is plenty of helpfull people here. like i found this beauty yesterday at my local bone yard....


whatever you need this car should have. get your checked out once. this car looks complete down ot the rear end. and it looked in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice!
I got true duals, 4 turbo action tires, custom air intake scoop and forced induction for under $100. Thank you Chesterfield Auto Parts! Btw, there are like 2 TC's, 2 V6 LX's and a SC there with almost everything still in them (except the blower in the SC).
Anyways, I know I was vague and I know it is impossible to know for certain unless you are looking right at it, but thanks for your help! I was more worried than inquisitive. :D
 

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your quite welcome. i know that worried feeling you mean. i got it on the way to work when my heater core went.... then again when i went to back up at work and i twisted my output shaft of the trans off. you get that sinking feeling in your tummy. anyway keep us posted and good luck! we are here if you need us.
 

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:( buddy... i dont know how to tell you this....:eek: you chucked a rod. i'd look under your oil pan if i were you. you mind find yir new best friend under there. i blew out 2 of them in my 4.6 in one go. but i also kept drivin to after i blew it. i also found a nice hole in the side of the block.
 

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The Parts Guy
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:( buddy... i dont know how to tell you this....:eek: you chucked a rod.
While certainly not impossible, that wouldn't explain the car rolling in park.

This thread is a perfect example of why neutral drops are dumb.

-Rod
 

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me thinks there is problems with the part between the dr seat and the steering wheel.

is there anyone in va that can go look at this thing and give the rest of us an better description of wtf is going on with the vehicle?
 

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While certainly not impossible, that wouldn't explain the car rolling in park.

This thread is a perfect example of why neutral drops are dumb.

-Rod
no that just explains why the engine is shaking and stalling. i figure the guy popped either a u joint or tore the driveshaft of the diff. these ones are just guesses. my dad did this back in the 70s in his 75 dart. he blew a u joint and pole volted his car
 

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Stroked and Blown
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So I reversed out of a driveway and then threw it in first and floored it (maybe it's just me being a teenager??) anyways i heard a loud bang (maybe from the rear?) and now the car won't start completely. I heard the engine start but it doesn't stay for more than a couple seconds. My friend and I were able to push it while in park and drive. Does anyone have any idea if it is the driveshaft or transmission or some gear or what? I drive a 92 Tbird LX 3.8l v6.


It sounds like you threw a rod, and yes, you're looking at a couple thousand to have the engine rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, the mechanic finally took a look at it (3 days later...) and found a fuel pump that was broken, which would explain why it shut off after a few seconds (no fuel to engine). He just started looking at it like 30 minutes before closing, so he will finish tomorrow morning.
 

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The Parts Guy
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If the fuel pump isn't coming on at all, I'm willing to bet you tripped the inertia switch in the trunk when the car slammed into drive. I really doubt that the fuel pump is actually dead, though the mechanic may try to tell you otherwise. I'd just recommend checking out (resetting) the inertia switch first. It couldn't hurt.

-Rod
 

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I wish I could. The car is in shop 20 miles away. And I can't just ask him to reset it because I don't think the mechanic will enjoy hearing advice from a 17 year old...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I don't know if this is important, but my electric seat belts were not kicking on right when I turned on the battery. Could this be caused by the inertia switch?
 

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Pedal Faster
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Ah, CSI-type shiznit! Tell you what, call you mechanic tomorrow and just be cool about it. "Hey, I was thinking, since there was such a big bang, do you think it could have tripped that fuel pump shutoff switch in the trunk?" Don't go in sounding like that's the problem and you know better, just float it like a theory (because it is.)

But it sounds like whenever the transmission / ujoint / differential broke, the jolt was enough to trip the fuel pump shut off.
 
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