[BLittle500]

How the heck do you guys get the bolts out of the LCA for the lower shock mount? I got the nut off fine, but the bolt is gauded fast to the bushing inside the lower mount. Can I get just those bushings for the LCA? In at work (ford dealer) I was told I had to get the whole arm.

Let me now if you guys have any tips,

Thanks guys,


Brandon

 

[fold_em83]

I had the exact same problem. I tried a hammer, PB Blaster, and a gear puller before I was errantly led to believe that the bushings could be purchased separately. If you want an easy way to get the bolts out, use an oxy-acetylene torch. That'll get them out in no time. Unfortunately, you will ruin the bushings as well. The information you got that says you have to buy the whole control arm is correct. In hindsight, I wish I would have saved my hours of frustration and just pulled the whole control arm and replaced it. I would suggest the same to you.

 

[BLittle500]

Thats what I'm looking at doing. I may need to be able to swap shock assemblies out rather quickly at the race track so I definatly dont want to mess with stuff like that at the track. Definatly some never seize will be in order.


Thanks, for the info, anyone else?


Thanks again,


Brandon

 

[Tobey]

Pretty much what the other guy said. If you want to swap spring assemblies, I would suggest replacing the lower control arm before your racing season, and installing it with anti-sieze. Of course down here in the snow-less and salt-less south, I've never had that problem...

 

[tbirdtess]

Yes Brandon, sorry

~~Hello

I did the same thing,Torch. Big mess & alot of smoke!! Going to replace the lower control arm.

Get your self a SPORT arm as replacement. The bushing is supposed to be alittle stiffer. (Same as SC).

Paul

 

[frankjc]

Break the flag thing off the other side, put a 6 point socket with an impact gun (if you have one), or a breaker bar to get it to turn. Put the nut back on and wack it with a hammer or an air hammer, keep turning at and soaking it with rust penetrant as you go. Eventually it WILL come out. Sometimes the threaded side gets screwed into the strut itself because the hole is so small.
I had a hell of a time getting the passenger side out on my Mark VIII, the driver's side came right out.

 

[girdnerg]

I didn't have access to a torch, so my solution was to get a small chisel in there and spread the sleave out. The sleave is a rolled piece of metal, not a solid tube, so once I found the seam and spread it out, the bolt punched out pretty easy. I still replaced the arm since I had damaged it trying everything else.
Rob

 

[tbirdbrain]

The replacement bushing is not only available but relatively inexpensive. Moog part # K8604

 

[BLittle500]

tbirdbrain, when I went w/ that part number on the net, the only one that came up was the bushing that goes to the sub frame??

Guys, is supercoupe performance going to be my cheapest option for whole LCA assemblies? I have a buddy at NAPA, and I get stuff CHEAP, but I'm not sure if it would come w/ ball joints and all.

Thanks again,


Brandon

 

[turdferguson]

tbirdbrain, when I went w/ that part number on the net, the only one that came up was the bushing that goes to the sub frame??

Guys, is supercoupe performance going to be my cheapest option for whole LCA assemblies? I have a buddy at NAPA, and I get stuff CHEAP, but I'm not sure if it would come w/ ball joints and all.

Thanks again,


Brandon

Try Rockauto.com, that's where I got mine.
There should also be a discount code for the site lurking in the misc. forums.

 

[tbirdbrain]

rock auto, advance auto, pep boys........even on ebay! I cant seem to not be able to find them. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995...OOG-K8604_W0QQitemZ200058628168QQcmdZViewItem)

 

[frankjc]

tbirdbrain, when I went w/ that part number on the net, the only one that came up was the bushing that goes to the sub frame??

Guys, is supercoupe performance going to be my cheapest option for whole LCA assemblies? I have a buddy at NAPA, and I get stuff CHEAP, but I'm not sure if it would come w/ ball joints and all.

Thanks again,


Brandon

Arms are $50 something at Advance IIRC.

 

[tbirdbrain]

The trw control arms that they (advance auto) now stock are up to $69 and seem to be climbing in price about once a month. The MK VIII version of the lower control arm through every parts house I checked (about a dozen of them) have all had a doubling in price (all over $150 each and i get shop pricing). Advance was the only one with the old pricing.

I'm afraid that we are going to see the price start to climb on the tbird lower also.

 

[frankjc]

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=TRW&mfrpartnumber=10783&parttype=2071&ptset=A
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?parttype=2071&mfrcode=TRW&ptset=A&mfrpartnumber=10783
Unless the prices vary by region.

 

[tbirdbrain]

Unless the prices vary by region.

Advance (aka partsamerica) was the only one with the old pricing.

my point exactly. Even the folks at rock are selling the mk8 arms at $124.79 each now. The 'word on the street' that i got is that the arms (all of them) are heading towards a price increase after the first of the year.

 

[speed95]

Get the lower arm from Advance Auto. They have some in stock. Get the SC one. Its cheaper and has a stiffer ball joint. When I did the arms 2 weeks ago I had a easy time getting out the lower shock bolt on the drivers side but when I did the pass. side I had hell with it. I spent about 3 hours getting the bolt out on that side.

 

[BLittle500]

Awsome, thanks for the info guys, I'm gonna get some new ones here soon. I think for what I use the car for, I'll be much better off getting a whole arm w/ the ball joint. Luckly the racing season doesnt start till March. Thanks for all your help/ links guys!


Thanks again,


Brandon