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Discussion Starter #1
I have asked this question before, I just can't find the thread.

When I do my springs and sway bars, do I need shorter endlinks? In other words,
If I lower 1.6 inches do I need 1.6 inch shorter endlinks. If so why?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice, thanks that what I thought I just was not sure...
 

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You only need shorter end links for the rear sway bar. Why because if you don't get them the rear of the car will be jacked up in the air and the sway bar will be way too loaded. The suspension won't be very effective in the rear of the car.
I've heard this both ways.

How does the sway bar get loaded too. Help me out.
 

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I'm also curious to see if anyone can prove the need for shorter endlinks. I have stock endlinks and a lowered car, and I don't have any issues.

Master486, what say you? I want diagrams and math equations if necessary; check the opinions at the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Master486,
So with what you said it is only on the rear sway bar not the front. I am formulating a plan for my suspension...
 

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This is info from a thread I saw a while back. I saw a picture of the damn car with the rear end raised like it had a stick up it's ass. And I wonder why they make shorter rear links for our cars. Maybe because they are needed?? I wonder. There aren't any shorter end links for the front (that I've ever seen). For those who have lowered your car and don't have problems, congrats. If others want to try it out and see, be my guest.
 

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Ok for those that found it too difficult to search, it seems that the shorter end links are optional if you keep the stock sway bar. If you have swapped out your sway bar, you need shorter links. The problem is that when the suspension is lowered the angle of the sway bar and end links change at ride height. What is ideal is the sway bar parralel to the ground and the end links perpendicular to the ground. Shorter end links bring the suspension back to this geometry.
 

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Whoa nelly.

You mentioned it loaded the bar. I asked how. I wasn't going to search. I wanted you to tell me what you knew.

That's all.
Wow.

Edit. I can't tell. Is yours lowered?
 

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That's a nice start. Let's go a little further now:

For the sway bar to jack the rear up, the link would have to be long enough so that as the car settles, the bar rotates far enough toward the vertical that the bushings reach their deflection limit, and the link becomes a rigid, load-carrying member, preventing the suspension from moving any further upward. I find it dubious that you could drive very far like this without completely destroying the bushings, but let's run with the theory.

For a different sway bar to have this effect, and not a stock bar, the moment arm would have to be shorter on the aftermarket bar. So, what sway bar are people switching to that has this effect? What is the measurement from the centerline of the long axis of that bar (measured through the frame buhings) to the mounting hole for the end link?

Someone bring this measurement, and I'll measure my stock bar for comparison. Then some simple geometry should lead us down the path to enlightenment.

Master486, I'm not trying to pick on you. It's just that there are a lot of questionable "facts" thrown around on this board, and I'm just trying to prove/disprove some of these beliefs. I truly don't know the measurements of any of the aftermarket bars that are commonly used. Maybe this is a real effect, or maybe not. I just want to put some tech behind it, instead of being satisfied with "Joe's car sat funny, so it must be the endlinks." We should demand higher standards of our members.
 

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Master486, I'm not trying to pick on you. It's just that there are a lot of questionable "facts" thrown around on this board, and I'm just trying to prove/disprove some of these beliefs. I truly don't know the measurements of any of the aftermarket bars that are commonly used. Maybe this is a real effect, or maybe not. I just want to put some tech behind it, instead of being satisfied with "Joe's car sat funny, so it must be the endlinks." We should demand higher standards of our members.
I completely agree with you. A lot of claims get thrown out there without facts. If I could find the picture that would serve as "proof" that this condition exists. It was a side pic of the car and the rear end was clearly much higher than the front. For now, let's just run with "The shorter end links shouldn't be necessary."
 

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The problem is, there are a lot of things that could have contributed to the rear being jacked up. If he had just installed new springs, the rubber isolators could have been installed wrong, not letting the spring sit all the way down in the seat. Some springs take a while to settle; it might have fixed itself after a couple days without doing anything. Heck, mine sits a little high after it's been up on the jackstands because the tires don't sit flat until it rolls back and forth a little.

Did he replace some bushings, and torque everything down with it up on jackstands? If so, it takes a while for the bushings to shift and the car to settle. My '69 Cutlass is sitting in the driveway with a little rake to it right now because I just installed a new rear with all new bushings, and I had to torque some of them with the rear end drooping due to clearance problems. It will settle after I drive it a bit.

All I'm saying is that a picture proves nothing. Until someone puts pencil to paper and shows me with a little geometry how the stock end links combined with an aftermarket bar puts the sway bar into a bind, affecting the ride height, I choose not to believe.
 

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I'm pretty sure it was a pic of Casper's car.
 

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you need different endlinks if you run the ADDCO bar.
You hit the nail on the head. The Addco bar is not designed to use the stock style link, the hole is much larger to allow a standard endlink to pass through. If you try to use standard style endlinks in the stock bar, the bolt with bind in the hole and bend.

-Miller
 

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IIRC, Casper's car sat higher in the rear because when he installed lowering springs, he used poly isolators. That's the reason I sold mine before I had chance to lower the car. I reused the original rubber ones. I also used the shorter swaybar endlinks and the swaybar is actually pointing down a bit with the car being on the ground.

Jim
 

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IIRC, Casper's car sat higher in the rear because when he installed lowering springs, he used poly isolators. That's the reason I sold mine before I had chance to lower the car. I reused the original rubber ones. I also used the shorter swaybar endlinks and the swaybar is actually pointing down a bit with the car being on the ground.

Jim
right on.
 
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