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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I'm giving changing my motor mounts another try, and instead of going through the torture that removing the mount+bracket out of a 2x2 inch space was, I was wondering about the service manual's procedure for changing them.

The one thing I wasn't sure about was that it instructs you to disconnect the strut rod from the LCA, and remove the bottom through bolt for the shock assembly (which I expect is seized inside the bushing). However, there's no mention of disconnecting the ball joint. When the subframe is lowered, how would the LCA hang freely as it states in the procedure? Is disconnecting the strut rod and shock bolt enough?

Also, since the ford engine lift brackets are $$$ and very hard to find, would using the bottom alternator mount bolts be sufficient to support the engine from a support bar? I've read on here and many other forums that it's a common place to lift the 4.6L from, I just didn't feel that comfortable letting such a small part of the engine block take that much weight.

I plan on making a very thorough guide on how to replace these dang things, so I'm just trying to get this right. Any advice would be very appreciated.
 

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When I changed my motor mounts, I used a jackstand under the engine, and my floor jack, and did one side at a time.

3 bolts to the engine, 1 bolt thru the mount at the frame.

I remember the front bolt being hard to get to, but it was pretty easy, and I didn't disconnect ****.

Use of multiple extensions and possibly ujoints may be required.

I took the tire off, and worked thru the hole in front of the pipes.

I don't remember replacing the mounts to be hard at all; the thing that took the most time was drilling the kmember for the safety chain I installed.


Public Service Announcement:

If the driver's side motor mount goes bad, the engine can stuff up against the hood, which will hold the TB blade open to the WOT position.

That makes for one Hell of a Ride.

Not Recommended.
 

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I supported my engine using the holes and studs on the heads(that the timing chain cover uses). I don’t unbolt anything but the lower shock bolt and the upper control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Grog,
I agree with you, its definitely doable without dropping the subframe, and most have done it that way. I'm just hoping to reduce the amount of pain involved in wiggling it out from the space where the oil filter goes. I might try removing the steering rag and take it out from the back before I try dropping the subframe. I had no trouble getting the bolts off. I'm also gonna change the oil filter adapter gasket while I'm at it if I do end up dropping it.

XR7,
Those studs that you're talking about, are those the ones directly behind the coil pack on the passenger side and holding up a bracket on the driver side? So if the pinch bolt for the UCA ball joint is removed, and so is the shock bolt, when the subframe is lowered the spindle assembly minus the shock will come down as well?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Those are them, there are identical holes on the back of the heads as well forthe other end of the chains. And yes, basically you’re dropping the entire front suspension minus the shock assemblies and UCAs. Remove the calipers as well(and rotors and brackets to save weight for that matter).

It’s obviously more heavy this way but one thing I recommend is using chains and long bolts or even screwdrivers through the LCA holes and the shock holes, and gradually move the links down as you lower the assembly via the jack. Works in the reverse as well, keeping it stable
 

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Random and off topic, but V22...are you affiliated with the Osprey aircraft in some capacity? Ground crew, pilot, etc.?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:) Nah I just thought it sounded cool. Ospreys are dangerous, don't think I'd come near one of those lol.
 

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I supported the engine with the alternator bolts and a bar. It ended up being supported for 3 weeks or more and no issues. To get room to access and remove the mounts I removed the wheels, disconnected and removed the front section of the exhaust and disco'd the steering shaft from the rack. I ended up finding a minor tear in the rag joint rubber at this time and replaced it with a U-joint. It honestly was a PIA because I was figuring it out as I went, but now that I've done it, it's really not that bad just time consuming.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I supported the engine with the alternator bolts and a bar. It ended up being supported for 3 weeks or more and no issues. To get room to access and remove the mounts I removed the wheels, disconnected and removed the front section of the exhaust and disco'd the steering shaft from the rack. I ended up finding a minor tear in the rag joint rubber at this time and replaced it with a U-joint. It honestly was a PIA because I was figuring it out as I went, but now that I've done it, it's really not that bad just time consuming.
Thanks for the reply. I checked my rag joint and what do you know, it also has a small tear. Do you think it's worth switching over to a u joint? I've heard removing the rag joint transmits more noise and vibrations from the road and power steering. Did you manage to get your steering wheel in the right position?

Surprisingly, the shock bolts came right out with a few taps after I soaked them in penetrant for a few days. I noticed the nut has a green nylon insert, I'm guessing I can't reuse it? It had plenty of resistance when threaded by hand. When I looked up the part number for the nut (N620604-100) the picture appears not to show any insert. Also I'm having a hard time finding a part number for the UCA pinch bolt, which also has a nylon nut. Parts stores only have non nylon nuts in that size.
 

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Surprisingly, the shock bolts came right out with a few taps after I soaked them in penetrant for a few days. I noticed the nut has a green nylon insert, I'm guessing I can't reuse it? It had plenty of resistance when threaded by hand. When I looked up the part number for the nut (N620604-100) the picture appears not to show any insert. Also I'm having a hard time finding a part number for the UCA pinch bolt, which also has a nylon nut. Parts stores only have non nylon nuts in that size.
Use blue Loktite on them. Or order them on line (Amazon sells'em)

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Holy crap, the accessibility is fantastic.

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There's so much room you can see the other side of my garage o_O
I took the advice of another member inserting long bolts at the 4 corners, it made lowering it a piece of cake. When I put it back in I had to help the floor jack a bit by hand to keep it from going up crooked and watch the power steering lines near the front driver side corner, but other then that it went smoothly. I ended up getting new upper ball joint nuts from amazon, as they don't even have a part number and are only sold with new control arms (according to the dealer). I made sure to match the old ones (grade 10 and prevailing torque style).

Wasn't that hard at all and the new mounts are in. As I suspected, the old ones were absolutely dead. This whole time I thought that the mounts were hard to check because you can't see the rubber. If you can't see the rubber, they're already freakin toast! You can see how they collapsed they are compared to the new one. The engine was basically sitting on the metal of the brackets, evident by the shiny marks.

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I changed the oil filter adapter gasket while I was at it. Thanks for the advice XR7, disconnecting the UCA ball joint and shock bolt worked perfectly. Honestly dropping the subframe is the best service technique on this car lol. Engine feels extremely smooth now and you practically can't feel it change gears or any load change when turning the wheel lock to lock. Night and day difference! I figured it had to be mounts considering the idle speed is just a hair above 500 RPM in drive and rock steady, and every major maintenance item had already been attended to (spark plugs, vacuum lines, etc).

I'll be making a write up for checking and replacing the mounts, dropping the subframe appears to be the easiest (maybe not the quickest) way to get those big metal gorillas out. You also don't have to jack the engine up all the way to moon and slice up your wrists trying to bypass a physical impossibility of matter and space.
 

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Nicely done! Did you end up using the stock hydraulic style mounts, or go to solid? I was going to replace mine as preventative maintenance when I had my exhaust/transmission out. Even with all the extra room, it still looked like a PITA to get to them. It's on the list to replace them some time, but fortunately they still seem fine as far as I can tell.
 

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Nicely done! Did you end up using the stock hydraulic style mounts, or go to solid? I was going to replace mine as preventative maintenance when I had my exhaust/transmission out. Even with all the extra room, it still looked like a PITA to get to them. It's on the list to replace them some time, but fortunately they still seem fine as far as I can tell.
Thanks! I used Pioneer hydraulic mounts, I figured since the OEM was hydraulic I might as well go with that (and also since hydraulic means less vibrations). I was hoping that at least one of the aftermarket mounts didn't need any cutting of the lower stud, but unfortunately all the brands don't specify left and right like the OEM did and require removal of about 1/4'' off the passenger mount stud to clear the subframe pedestal. Really though, the difficulty of dropping the subframe is nothing compared to removing them by twisting and jerking them past the oil filter area. It sounded scary, but its much easier to drop then it looks.
 
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