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Discussion Starter #21
The OEM super coupe line routes down the firewall like factory, and then connects to a Dorman line. The Dorman # 628-204 is for 80's f250s and cost about 20$. It has the correct fitting for the S10 slave setup; also it has a bend on one end which is needed. I was able to connect the slave cylinder, and the super coupe line using a 3/8 - 5/16 compression adapter. I had to sand down the OEM line slightly because my caliper showed it a hair bigger than 3/8. The Dorman is a standard 8mm or 5/16".

My bracket is just a simple chunk of thick scrap angle iron I had. It is bolted at two points and I bent it slightly to make sure the angle is correct. I was reluctant to post pictures of it earlier; wanted to make sure it worked properly. A 3/8 carriage bolt with a ground down head is linking the slave to the arm. I have a small bushing in-between the two bolts on the arm to provide a small amount of pivot. I used the carriage bolt because it gave a round ball joint like end to push against the slaver cylinders piston.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
This is an early picture of my shifter. It has been changed slightly since; mostly the remote shifter had to be lowered. I will post a picture of it in the car soon. I used a section of C channel angle iron to connect the two. 8MM thrust bearings bolted at either end provide the pivot needed to prevent binding. It has no noticeable flex and is a simple setup. I got the idea to use the thrust bearings from another post here from years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Forgot to share this earlier. My transmission cross member wasn't fitting properly. A few others have had this issue as well. My solution was to just move back part of the transmission mount an inch or so. Just as solid, everything lined up perfectly after.

Little back story... when I got my T45 it came out of a Cobra. I didn't know at the time but the Cobras have a cross member that is about 4 inchs off from a normal mustang T45. So I had to switch the tail shaft housing to a non Cobra model. I am lucky I found this out ahead of time because it would have been very frustrating to find out after bolting the thing to the engine. Swapping it was straight forward, but it was another step and expense I didn't have planned. This isn't why the trans mount had to be moved an inch though.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Found this 3M sound reduction mat. I bought it years ago for something else and forgot about it. After unrolling it, it ended up to be about the perfect size. It's a heavy rubbery / tar like consistency and seems to do a good job sealing up the hole. I think it turned out pretty well!

The shift knob sits right where I want it. In the center of the auto cutout. I am going to get a stock mustang shift knob soon. The one on it now is just a cheap aftermarket one.

Any suggestions on shift boots? I read on a thread here that a C5 Corvette boot fits the auto cutout well. Anyone able to confirm that?

Cleaned up the transmission wiring harness a bit. Seems that my speedometer is working properly. That just plugged right in since I have the correct year t45. It's nice to have something plug and play with this swap! I checked and the Cobra the T45 came out of had a 3.27 rear end stock, so hopefully that means it will be someone accurate. I'll compare it to my GPS when I get a road test in.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Today was the first time out on the road. The Cougar is completely different car now! I have driven a lot of stick shift cars over the years. None of them felt like this though, the car is just loves to go fast and feels so connected.

Thanks to ClintD for getting me set up with the tune. Very impressed with how well that went. The car pulls so much harder than I expected it to.

Still not done yet, probably never will be. After test driving I do want to tune in my shift knob location a bit, and add a bit more insulation on the shift tunnel.

I'll have some pictures posted up sometime soon. Going to try and get a videos up before summer is over. Maybe roast the tires a bit when the clutch is broke in.
 

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Glad to hear it! It really is amazing how much difference the 5-speed swap makes on the whole feel of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I changed the setup a bit. Got rid of the factory shift lever, and put on a new aluminum SickSpeed knob. Doing this moved it down and forward a bit, which is what I wanted. That plan was originally to get a mustang leather knob to make it look factory. This cost less and I think it looks cool so overall glad I went this way.

That factory Mustang shift lever I was using before had a rubber bushing in it. After removing that and going with this aftermarket all solid lever, the shift feel is greatly improved. I can feel the gears better and it clicks into gear with more feed back.

Next plan is to do the PI intake this fall/winter. As Matt said earlier in the thread, I have been noticing this non PI engine really starts fall flat after 5500 RPM. If I am launching, I run first up to 6 grand, but second or third at that high RPM is just for making good noise. Hopefully the intake will help a bit, it can't hurt.

I am happy with the exhaust. Listening to it purr and blurbel when driving around and shifting gears is awesome. It sounds great to me, maybe a bit too loud. I might learn to weld and get a mid mount muffler and the truebendz kit. Sometimes I find myself reaching to turn down the volume on the stereo; then realize it's the exhaust that is loud, not the music :D.
 

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If you're getting power to 5500, are you sure you don't already have A PI intake?

The stock 96 NPI manifold falls flat at 4200, the PI loses it at 5500.


TO go past that is trickflow, or manifolds No Longer Produced. SVO, Fox lake, or whoever, or a set of Nick's stage threes, lol. ( those don't get sold, they get broken.)

I have all of the above except TF or Nick, including all stock configs. Except for 5.0 engines, lol.
 

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I like the knob and boot you chose! The boot adapter on mine is a sickspeed part, they have an awesome selection of manual dressup parts


NPIs flatline on horsepower after 4200rpm like grog said, the idea is to shift so the next gear falls into the meat of peak torque, if you're wringing it out all the way to 5500-6000rpm you're missing it and it's costing you acceleration. Here's a dyno sheet for a stock npi 96 Mustang that will give you an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So it has been a while since I posted anything about the Cougar! It is still running great and is put away for the Winter. I plan to start the PI intake swap before spring is here. Does this coolant valley tube look like it will fit properly? It is from a Crown Vic IIRC...

37742


I was never happy with my clutch slave bracket I came up with. To my credit it hasn't given me problems, but just isn't that strong. I found a member on the Facebook page to make me a copy of his bracket he came up with. This thing is way stronger then what I have, and bolts to the transmission housing for support. Also going to get rid of the spliced together clutch line I made, and go to a braided line with the Russell fittings. IDK if Jose H. is on the forums or not; thanks a lot for welding the bracket together for me!

37743


Since I stopped driving my Tbird last year, I took off the 17" 5 spokes with BFG sport's, and put them on the Cougar. I'll post a picture up sometime but it looks nice and the wider tires really grip.

I have some suspension work planned down the road, but not getting into it now. The stock stuff and maintenance/replacement I have done over the years is still in decent condition.
 
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