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I have had a pinging issue for some time and decided to clean the elements on the MAF.

WHOA!

What a difference. It now idles at 500 rpm, is much quieter, more go, etc... and no ping. I wouldn't believed it.

A can of high dollar 3m contact cleaner and presto!

Had to post.
 

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I couldn't believe it.

I have been playing for cars for a long time and would not have guessed. I changed plugs, fuel filter, checked this and that. I will still go down a heat range on the plugs from here but love the "new" car the clean maf gave me.
 

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I just made the fist mods ever on my TBird. I cleaned the MAF sensor with the only Electrical cleaner I could find at AutoZone: Turner Laboratories Electronic Parts Cleaner Quick-Dry Technology. I also used a q-tip. THEN I took out the plastic air tube referred to as the Air Silencer? I have a K&N panel filter on order from O'Reilly's which I should have tomorrow afternoon. I also cleaned the black plastic for the first time hehe, you know the part that says V8 4.6L OHC?

I recall from reading other posts that now is the time to unplug a fuse or something to reset the onboard computer. Is that correct? And whats is the procedure again? I'm afraid my car is gonna run like [email protected] I hope it runs much better though and turns off my Check Engine light.

Anyone have some advice? After resetting the EEC, do I drive around normal for 15 minutes and then start gunning it? What's the break-in procedure for the EEC after it's disconnected? Thanks everyone!
 

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After you cleanur MAF and install ur K&N filter, unplug the #15 fuse from ur fuse box. Then stick ur key in the ignition and let is crank 3 times for about 2 seconds each time. Then replace the fuse and you're good to go. THe EEC should have learned the new airflow and you really dont need to break it in any.
 

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Thanks!

After I install the K&N tomorrow, I'll reset the computer. In the meantime, I just went out for a drive and here's some things I found out.

1) It's running a lot better with the MAF sensor hooked up than when it was when the EEC threw the MAF code. It doesn't want to die at a stop in drive.

2) MUCH better gas mileage than when I had the MAF sensor unhooked. I had it unhooked because it actually ran better after the Check Engine light came on. I left with 1/8 of a tank, gunned it many times, on the freeway doing 85, stop n go, everything, for about 45 minutes. When I parked it just now, it was at 1/8 of a tank :D

3) My tires don't screech as much on my 1st to 2nd shift as before, but I found out why. I've been carrying my huge 2 1/2 ton jack in the truck. I had planned to take out the air resonator so I picked up the jack a while back. That's when my trans went out and I never got around to it. So when I used the jack to take the silencer out, I left the jack out also. Actually I'm glad it's hooking up better because when I'm making some serious power later on, I don't want my tires to be useless. If the things won't hook up with a stock motor, they surely won't with a supercharger.

4) I do notice a slight hesitation occasionally when I'm at a stop in Drive, and then just give it some gas to accelerate. It's nothing like before when it acted like it was choking and almost died a few times, but it's still not a smooth takeoff. Is this because I'm now running a little lean with the air silencer out?

5) I was reading some tech articles and found a page that says the '94-'97 MN12's had EEC-V's, not EEC-IV's. Is that right? Does that mean I can get the flash version of the new superchips custom tuner? First of all, do I have an EEC-V?

l8!
 

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Most of the resonator can be taken out by just reaching up through the bumper, no jack needed. Th epart that you miss will not cause any restriction on a stock car. By the way that's fuse #15 in the enderhood fuse box.

-Miller
 

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I mulled over whether or not I want to post this, but here goes anyway.

Last night I reset the computer and took a spin after the work I did on it. It started to run great, with no engine light. And it didn't use much gas either. I thought I had solved all my problems and saved a lot of money.

BUT yesterday (10-4), I took a friend to move his out-of-commission car across town. The car ran OK up until it warmed up to operating temperature, and then it threw another dammmmm engine code. I pulled his little sports car easily though and he told me his car had never accelerated that fast before :D hehe. But it's just not running good like it was the night before.

The CEL is on again, and it's running like [email protected] again, missing every now and then, hesitating, bogging, and it even died at a stop light twice! I had to stall the torque converter a little bit up to 800-1000 at each light just to ensure the rpm's didn't dip too low and cut the motor off. Most of the time, it idled just fine, but every now and then it dips below 500 and pops back up and down again. The volts go down and I start seeing red engine lights. :(

I raced a little sports car, I guess it was an older Toyota Supra Turbo, don't know, but it was pretty decent. At the top of 2nd gear, my car starts hesitating, so I backed off as he passed. I was beating him, dammmm. We tried it again and I smoked him. The motor is very erratic right now. It's so frustrating.

Does it matter that I reset the EEC at night when it was cooler weather (around 68°)? When I drove it in the warmer daytime (about 83°), did the EEC panic with all the different readings? Should I reset it again in the daytime? Or do you think there is another problem I am overlooking? Any help much appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Have you ever replaced your IAC? Idle Air control Valve. If ur MAF isnt defective, i would replace the IAC as well.
 

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Annihilator said:
Have you ever replaced your IAC? Idle Air control Valve. If ur MAF isnt defective, i would replace the IAC as well.
Is that the plug-in right next to the MAF sensor on the MAF body? I also sprayed the contacts on that with electrical cleaner and dried them before hooking it back up.

You know, Firestone charged me $80 to read the codes last time. They called it "Computerized Engine Analysis". Is there a cheaper way to do this for every time my car throws one? Thanks.
 

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Last i knew auto zone checked codes for free chech the local parts palces around you and see if they do too.

-Miller
 

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miller1995 said:
Last i knew auto zone checked codes for free chech the local parts palces around you and see if they do too.

-Miller
Actually I did try AutoZone before I went to Firestone, but the guy couldn't find the diagnostic connection and I didn't even know where it was at the time. He checked the driver's side underneath and under the hood near what I now know as the high power fusebox.

When I went to Firestone (at the recommendation of my brother who vouched for this particular shop), they told me that those types of code scanners at Autozone will only pull the first code it finds and were inadequate. They said their diagnostic tools will find all of the codes. Plus they actually knew where the connection was...on the passenger side. Hmm, maybe I'll try a different Autozone now that I know a bit more. Thanks
 
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