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one in a million
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys.

car hesitates/backfires/pops.

But soon as I hit wot it seems to clear up.

Could this be a crankshaft/camshaft position sensor going bad?

so far I have new plugs, wires, coils, o2 sensors.

maf is clean and I have 2 extra ones with no difference.

It just starting running like this and is hard to take off unless wot.

any help appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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Registered
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I'd check to make sure the plugs are all tight. Double check that the boots are all the way pushed in, some of them really don't want to go in. Also, are you 100% sure you gapped all the spark plugs right?
 

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Super Moderator
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Yup something is likely loose if you just recently worked on the car. Did you mess with the O2 sensors?

My bad didn't see that part. Either something is loose or you used the wrong parts. The O2 sensors aren't used at wot which is why I suggested them.

What brand/part#s did you install on your car? Some stuff is known to be junk.
 

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Super Moderator
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Crossed plug wires? Check the wire routings and make sure they're right.

Which brand plugs and wires did you use?
 

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one in a million
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
o2 sensors are new Bosch P#15716

Plug wires are Bosch P#09711 routings right.

Spark plugs are Ngk v-power.

I checked and cleaned the connections for the crankshaft/camshaft position sensors with no luck.

I was reading that the alternator can interfere with camshaft position sensor. ?

the Stumbleling clears up with full power past 3000rpm with throttle @3/4.

I got a good mechanic checking it out today. he checked the fuel pressure before I left and It was holding 26-35psi.
 

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Super Moderator
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o2 sensors are new Bosch P#15716

Plug wires are Bosch P#09711 routings right.

Spark plugs are Ngk v-power.

I checked and cleaned the connections for the crankshaft/camshaft position sensors with no luck.

I was reading that the alternator can interfere with camshaft position sensor. ?

the Stumbleling clears up with full power past 3000rpm with throttle @3/4.

I got a good mechanic checking it out today. he checked the fuel pressure before I left and It was holding 26-35psi.
a bad alternator won't do anything to the cam position sensor on it's own without affecting a billion other things. where were you reading that?


a broken vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator would certainly account for the stumbling. There's so much to look at, since we can't see it, you pretty much have to retrace your steps. It is 99.9% chance an air/fuel/spark issue. I'd say you have a pretty big air:fuel imbalance that clears up at heavy load only because the stock fuel tables have it pig-rich at high-load. Problem, is it can come from anywhere. I'd bet on fuel pressure problem or O2 problem, since the O2s are not used at high-load.

BTW, should have gotten NTK O2 sensors. They are the OEM supplier to ford for our car's O2 sensors.
 

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one in a million
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
got my beater back.

Running better now.

The mechanic replaced the maf and ran some strong carbon cleaner through the engine.
I guess the spare maf's are no good.

also he pointed out that the fan is drawing a lot of current when it kicks on. and the alternator may be on its way out.
 

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Premium Member
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5,862 Posts
got my beater back.

Running better now.

The mechanic replaced the maf and ran some strong carbon cleaner through the engine.
I guess the spare maf's are no good.

also he pointed out that the fan is drawing a lot of current when it kicks on. and the alternator may be on its way out.
The electric fans DO take a lot of juice, especially when they first start up (I've changed mine 4 times over the years); of course, I live in a hot climate and the fan pretty much runs all the time. The alternators tend to be highly reliable; I've had one go bad on the Mark, but never on the TBird.....
 

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Registered
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NGK's eh? i was looking at those V-powers, their sort of weird, but with that Vshaped electrode i would think they would be fine in our waste spark system.

otherwise most 4.6 owners from our years generally swear by AP104's and APP104's

and yes, if you don't hear a small click, or feel a pop while cramming those wires down in the holes. they didn't make connection with the plug.

and my alternator failed at around 120k. it still sort of worked though, just wasn't keeping up with demand when i was running AC, lights, radio, etc all at once.
 

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one in a million
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys.

It's still having a rough idle and popped a code P1152.

Its running rich on the drivers side bank 2, pulled the plugs and checked them out. all the ones on the drivers side where black with carbon. passenger side is clean. If this was not my dd I would drive it off a cliff and call it done.

also try'ed changing drivers side o2 with same results at idle.
 

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curious, did you do all that maintenance to your engine before or after you started having problems?

also, when you say that you "try'ed changing drivers side o2 with same results at idle", do you mean that you're on your second brand new bosch O2 sensor?? I'm confused because in the first post you mention that you already put in new O2 sensors...
 

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NGK's eh? i was looking at those V-powers, their sort of weird, but with that Vshaped electrode i would think they would be fine in our waste spark system.
I run NGK TR-55 coppers, no problem for here.
 

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one in a million
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
curious, did you do all that maintenance to your engine before or after you started having problems?

also, when you say that you "try'ed changing drivers side o2 with same results at idle", do you mean that you're on your second brand new bosch O2 sensor?? I'm confused because in the first post you mention that you already put in new O2 sensors...
I put one of my old ones back in that I know was working.

The injectors are pulsing normal.

can't find any vacuum leaks anywhere.

the wiring looks ok on the o2 plugs.

Could the Pcm be the problem? I can get another at the wrecking yard for 50.

but tired of throwing money at it.
 

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The Parts Guy
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I'd definitely check for vacuum leaks again. It also wouldn't hurt to verify that the EGR valve is functioning correctly by applying vacuum to it manually.
 

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Hey guys.

It's still having a rough idle and popped a code P1152.

Its running rich on the drivers side bank 2, pulled the plugs and checked them out. all the ones on the drivers side where black with carbon. passenger side is clean. If this was not my dd I would drive it off a cliff and call it done.

also try'ed changing drivers side o2 with same results at idle.
Hey I had an P1151 code on my wife's car and I changed the driver's side o2 sensor and I had to change the harness going to the sensor do to a bad piece of the harness.
 

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one in a million
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Got er fixed.

It was the alternator putting out ac current.

Was throwing off sensors and pcm.

got a new alternator and now running alot better.

thanks for all your help.
 

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Super Moderator
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Got er fixed.

It was the alternator putting out ac current.

Was throwing off sensors and pcm.

got a new alternator and now running alot better.

thanks for all your help.
how did you end up finding out?
 
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