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Mark VIII Gears OR Torque Converter OR which one first also what stall?

3K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  theterminator93 
#1 ·
Hey folks...
Yes there are other threads on the subject, but I haven't found one that addresses both at the same time.
I have a 1996 Mark VIII.
It is tuned with Quarterhorse and has dual cat back exhaust which has made a difference up top/on the highway for sure.
Around town though, it is still a stock Mark. :/ I want more of what it does on the highway, kinda scary, for 0-60. I don't need to go 150 MPH.
I have money which I intend to spend on this car.
I have read Many opinions here and elsewhere about what stall converter for the street, and what gears to get.
It is dizzying, and no direct references to Mark VIII's.

On gears, most here say 3.73 for the rear end is perfect for the street in a Mark.
I have also read more than once,
elsewhere, (mustang boards for ex)
that their gear change and tune was disappointing.

On torque converters, I am seriously considering a Circle D converter.
Those are $1k and I don't want to get it wrong with the stall speed, obviously.

In searching for mods for a street use car NO Track,
I have read :
"Don't do both"
"5k stall or go home"
"Don't fear the 456 Gear"
and
"Stock converter for the street, Period"
...among other things.

I know my engine doesn't get entertaining til 3500-4000 rpm,
But I don't want to have to rev it that high to start up a hill from a dead stop every time either.
I know cams and intake play a role.
I might dry shot it or build a higher compression swap motor later on. It would be an engine from another mark..
I don't have the patience to build another forced induction car..
Coyote motors are much more expensive than a parts Mark.

I know people here say 3.73 is "perfect", but could the ones who have done that elaborate?

What did the doers of the mentioned items/modifications regret doing/wish they had done differently?
The gear question could be answered by 2v/4v crowd, but I think the converter is more specific to the 4v people.
Thanks to helpers and I hope you are all safe!

Paul
 
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#2 ·
I have a 3.73 in my MN12. My 93 and 96 Marks had a 3.08. My 98 LSC has a 3.27.

Having gone from the 3.27 to a 3.73 I can tell you that the gear change by itself was nowhere near as noticeable as the converter by itself. Having both is best, but IMO the converter should come first.

I have a Circle D 3C, 9.5" single plate (roughly 3400-3600) stall in my T-bird, which has 3.73s. It's a really good combo for streetability with highway use as well. I have it locking after the 1-2 shift to help with engine noise/MPG (which is a tricky balance with lockup rates PT FYI). It's not a track machine but it has seen a few passes (just to see what it does).

I haven't played much with aftermarket on the 4v, but from what I know it takes higher stall a little better than the 2V motors. Those that have done it can elaborate, but knowing that I'd say 3600-3800 is about as high as I'd personally want to go on a stock or near stock engine. With some mild cams and other moderate mods coming up you might consider 4000-4200.

If you start changing up the cam/intake combo then things get more interesting; as you increase flow you shift the powerband higher (which is what having the extra valves does for the 4.6) and that's where more stall comes in handy.
 
#3 ·
I have a Circle D 3C, 9.5" single plate (roughly 3400-3600) stall in my T-bird, which has 3.73s. It's a really good combo for streetability with highway use as well. I have it locking after the 1-2 shift to help with engine noise/MPG (which is a tricky balance with lockup rates PT FYI). It's not a track machine but it has seen a few passes (just to see what it does).
Brandon,
I currently have a very choppy tune as compared to how the car runs stock.
Would you run that torque converter with a stock EEC? Why did you need 3 clutches in it as opposed to 1?
How crucial are TCC lockup rates for it?
Paul
 
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