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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Upon advice from Don Lasota, I have removed the COPs from the engine, and swapped in my 2 coil wasted spark ignition for a couple reasons.

The biggest reason came from dDUB. The Cougar PCM does not output a sequential COP signal, it provides a DIS signal. I am not willing to risk a full potential spark energy release in the wrong cylinder at the wrong time.

So, I am in need of a set of spark plugs wires to fit the 97 DOHC Mark VIII engine.

I am looking for recommendations as to which set is the best and most affordable wire set.

Thanks,
Rocketdog
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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The general consensus on here over many years has been that Motorcraft wires are the way to go. The cheaper aftermarket sets usually have lousy boot connections that the wire easily rips out of and/or the wires themselves don't insulate well against the voltage.

I believe the comment was something along the lines of, "mist the engine bay with a water spray bottle at night, and watch the lightshow". :)
 

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I found recently that the plug wires are interchangable.
The tbird is rocking a set of mark cables. If you want, you can swap your working parts over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Years ago, I had a cracked coil and I replaced both could and the wires with Accel Super Could and Accel Super Wires, 8.5mm, 45 degree boot end where the wire exits.

These wires do not reach far enough to get on the plug properly.

There is listings for wires for the 97 MY, so I assume that means it would not be necessary to change valve covers to earlier MY covers.

Having just replaced all the top end gaskets except the head gaskets, I would rather not have to replace stuff now. The gaskets cost a small fortune.

RD
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Years ago, I had a cracked coil and I replaced both could and the wires with Accel Super Could and Accel Super Wires, 8.5mm, 45 degree boot end where the wire exits.

These wires do not reach far enough to get on the plug properly.

There is listings for wires for the 97 MY, so I assume that means it would not be necessary to change valve covers to earlier MY covers.

Having just replaced all the top end gaskets except the head gaskets, I would rather not have to replace stuff now. The gaskets cost a small fortune.

RD
Your valve covers are not designed for plug wires, period. The listings are incorrect

These are the plug wire type DOHC valve covers, note the rectangular channels for them to go into, they also have covers to protect them from the elements similar to the coil covers on your current valve covers

44530
 

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Years ago, I had a cracked coil and I replaced both could and the wires with Accel Super Could and Accel Super Wires, 8.5mm, 45 degree boot end where the wire exits.

These wires do not reach far enough to get on the plug properly.

There is listings for wires for the 97 MY, so I assume that means it would not be necessary to change valve covers to earlier MY covers.

Having just replaced all the top end gaskets except the head gaskets, I would rather not have to replace stuff now. The gaskets cost a small fortune.
RD
The gaskets in my covers are silicone, they don't usually harden for years. I assume, based on the mark engines I see in jy's ; I've always thought they knew we'd have to clean the IMRC's regularly.

I bought both types years back. If you want multi-strike ignition, and will buy a proper driver, awesome!
If You're using our eec, they're weak. the stock external waste spark system kills wires and stuff is because they can go over 100kV into the right load :) like bad spark plugs...
I have a stocker embedded in a block of RTV.:)
The COP coils I have won't get near that. m8&03TC
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One of the first things I did to the car as a 2 valve was to remove, clean, smooth out internals casting marks and gasket port the intake and upper plenum.
I was astonished at the time by the sheer volume of filth inside the intake. I had assumed this was due to the valve guide seals being worn out, the crappy PCV system and the not functioning EGR passages.

If anything, the DOHC engine had more oily residue and carbon inside the intake than the SOHC engine had. Unfortunately, even with all the ports removed, I cannot get a tool inside to either smooth out the casting marks or gasket port the manifold. Also, I was a little leery of gasket porting with the IMRC components between the manifold and block. The IMRCs were caked with hard black residue about 3/16 thick,on all internal surfaces.
It took 2 cans of Sea Foam, 3 of carb and choke cleaner, and 2 more of brake cleaner along with a lot of elbow grease and a half dozen small brass wire brushes to clean.

Incidentally, after a lot of thought and the input I got from Race Cougar, xr7-4.6 and others (you too) I plan to keep the IMRCs functional.
Driveability pretty much Trumps all other characteristics in my view.

I was planning to use a tach driver and rpm window switch to control the IMRC valves. If anyone has a better plan please share it, I am all about taking advice.

RD
 

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The Parts Guy
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I likely still have the MSD Tach Adapter and MSD RPM switch from when I ran my 4V naturally aspirated. If you're interested, let me know and I'll check my parts room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey that would be awesome, I am on a fixed income and used parts are always a big help.

I probably will have to buy them from you in early August. This month was lots of small things like gaskets, RTV, electrical supplies, paint and hardware.

I am not moving as fast as I wanted to because I ran into some issues once we pulled the SOHC engine out of the Cougar.
Taking the opportunity to degrease, wash, inspect the engine bay and paint it revealed several cracks in the firewall.
I ended up drilling out all the crack ends to stop the cracking. Then I cut the firewall from the Lincoln, fitting it to the Mercury, and uber fastened the piece to the Mercury. Paying special attention to the cracks, I over-fastened it with about a 1-2" schedule with Tech Screws and finish sheet metal screws.

Please advise on the Tach Driver and the RPM switch, I am very interested. Thank you for thinking of us.

RD

I had no clue what IMRC stood for, so while googling I found this write up of how to repair the controller and figured I'd share.
Thank you for sharing this article.

I know I will save it and use it, so it is likely that others will as well. Much appreciated.

RD
 

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The Parts Guy
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Hey that would be awesome, I am on a fixed income and used parts are always a big help.

I probably will have to buy them from you in early August. This month was lots of small things like gaskets, RTV, electrical supplies, paint and hardware.
Located. I even have the original instruction sheets that came with them. I only used these for about one year (3,000 miles) before I switched to the blown setup and parked these in the drawer that I just removed them from. Shoot me a PM with your zip code and I'll get a shipped price for you.

44541

44542
44543
44544
44545
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nicely done, I sure do appreciate your effort and admire the organization skills.
I will pm my address.
I am bummed that the valve covers on the 97 engineary ignition conductor friendly. I considered using industrial grade high voltage wire but the termination options are too limited.
RD
 

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The Parts Guy
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As mentioned in the other thread, I likely have a set of valve covers for you as well. I'll check this weekend.
 
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