TCCoA Forums banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The mother-in-law bought a Mark about 2 months ago. It checked out great mechanically on the inspection. Just minor maintenance needed to be done. Really sweet ride. I'll post some pics when the weather gets better and I can take some decent shots.

She has lost heat and the temp has gone hot on her. No leaks, so I have ordered a new thermostat. I don't believe that the coolant is circulating. The reservior is still full. No noise from the water pump.This is my first stab at work on the engine. I am just guessing that the t-sat housing is the in-line unit below the reserviour and battery. Is that correct?

I also just replaced the serpentine.

Also, if there is any other explaination or input, I would appreciate it. Hopefully she hasn't damaged the engine. I can start it fine, but there is an intermittent tick coming and going. Oil level is fine.

Thanks.

Brad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,455 Posts
Did you disconnect the coolant hose to get the belt off??
When you put coolant in, it needs to go into the top coolant bypass tube, or you will get air in the system which can make the sensors read like its very hot.

We have 2 mark8's at my house, and they tend to leak air into the coolant system from time to time and it makes the temp sensor go way up.

- Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,544 Posts
T-Stat is where you think it is but make sure the electric fan is running too. I don't know about the heat but the AC won't work if it's locked up.

If it is the t-stat you'll need a long extension to get at it from the bottom. Make sure you refill from the crossover tube and check it after it's been run a while. Check it again after a couple days to make sure it's still topped off. It only takes a little bit of air to "blow it out". I had a problem with mine, dropped >1 gallon of coolant at a stoplight. Started it up, left the hotel and a half mile later water/steam went everywhere. I freaked since I'd just finished driving it 7 hours the day before at highway speeds with no troubles. A hose clamp had gone just a liiiittttle bit loose (heat cycling is my guess) letting a tiny bit of air into the system. Once I snugged that clamp and drove it down the drag strip 3 or 4 times and then on home it was fine.

The ticking may just be the secondary tensioners? Known problem on a Mark and not a big deal so long as it goes away after a few seconds. Should only happen at startup. Might happen if oil too thick? Some 95s have had valve spring issues too.... check with BlackIceLSC, he's the closest thing to an expert on that I know of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, for some reason the coolant was way down. Whoever did the last change likely didn't do it properly. I am used to refilling using the bypass on the bird. Didn't have time to look at it earlier and thought that whoever did it before would have refilled properly.

There are no leaks. I added a half gal to the system while it warmed up and added about equivalent water. I let it warm up and run for about 20 min. until all the bubbles subsided and the t-stat appeared to be letting the coolant flow.

Seems good now, but I advised her to keep an eye on the heat and gauge and shut it down if the temp rises. I will check again tomorrow and next day. Good advice.

She was actually out there asking questions and watching the fluid bubble and rise and fall. She was excited to learn about her engine and that it had lots of power.

I think her coolant level sensor is gone because it still shows low coolant level on the digital display and the CEL. The display also says the Door Ajar all the time.

It's a sweet ride, but it's a sort of rose/beige pearl with tan interior. Black on black would be nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
soop said:
I think her coolant level sensor is gone because it still shows low coolant level on the digital display and the CEL. The display also says the Door Ajar all the time..
Both are quite common,
If the coolant tank is full, and the low level alarm is still activating.. that means the little float on the sensor has seperated from the sensor...

Some change the sensor, some change the entire coolant tank...because it's about as much labor to change the sensor as it is to just swap the tank.

The door ajar is also common and easily fixed most of the time a liberal dose of WD 40 in the door latch area will clean the crud out of the little hole that the door lock sensor fits into... over time grime fills this hole and causes the door ajar warning.
Spray the latch liberally.. close the door a few times and spray again.
Should do the trick!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,544 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
Just a heads up.... the bolts on the t-stat housing are lock-tited on from the factory. So when you turn them they have a great habbit of staying in place and breaking the hoses the housing is hooked to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks guys. I'll check on all that today. Battery, the color of your Mark on the avatar looks the same as hers.

So for the t-stat, you remove the housing from the hoses and change it off the assembly and then put it back onto the hoses?

Shouldn't there be a Mark forum on TCCoA? Seems that anything Mark related should go somewhere specific. They do have their quirks. There also seems to be a good number of owners here too. I suppose there is enough Mark sites available.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I finally had time to change the t-stat yesterday. I pulled the hoses and exchanged it out of the car. I had to pull the battery and tray to get at the clamp on the inboard hose. Didn't think that it would be that much trouble. The clamps were awkward, but the two bolts on the housing came out nicely. Hoes were in good shape. Maybe it's already been swapped out before.

After replacing it, it's been a pain to get the temp steady. Is this a quirk in the Marks? My SC is no problem to fill and maintain.

I'm waiting a while for it to cool right down now. It overheated a couple of times out on test drives and I let out the steam from the bypass and it settled down and I carried on.

Earlier, I idled it at 2000-2500 rpm for a few minutes and the temp gauge actually went down, then when I drove it, after about 10 minutes it just spiked. When she bought it, a shop changed the fluid and filter in the trans. The shop is owned by an ex Ford Service manager. Could it be something to do with the trans? Maybe it just needs some passes at the track too?

The WD40 in the latch worked great, btw. Thanks.

The level sensor seems to be working okay.

The idle is also erratic. It surges.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,544 Posts
soop said:
...After replacing it, it's been a pain to get the temp steady. Is this a quirk in the Marks? My SC is no problem to fill and maintain.
The only "quirk" is that it HAS to be filled from the crossover tubeand it has to be full. I'd guess you still have some air trapped. Take the top off the reservoir and fill until you're up in the neck of it. I usually keep an eye on mine until it's run for a few days.

soop said:
....When she bought it, a shop changed the fluid and filter in the trans. The shop is owned by an ex Ford Service manager. Could it be something to do with the trans? Maybe it just needs some passes at the track too?
No correlation between the trans and the radiator afaik. There is a trans cooler on the drivers side of the radiator but I'm pretty sure they're seperated physically. Someone could've done some aftermarket though...

soop said:
...The idle is also erratic. It surges.
Air bubbles affecting temp sensor? Or maybe a vacuum leak?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah. I'll need to check it daily, but it is a pain when she drives it when I am at work. Told her to take short trips.

I have been filling at the crossover, overflow top off, until level is at cool mark, capping the overflow, running it, and topping off. A problem head gasket could create a problem in the cooling system, but I don't want to think about that.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
soop said:
but it is a pain when she drives it when I am at work. Told her to take short trips.

A problem head gasket could create a problem in the cooling system, but I don't want to think about that.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.
Suggestion: tell her to not drive the car until you resolve this overheating issue, otherwise you will likely have to "think about" a "problem headgasket".

Leave the overflow bottle closed, open the crossover tube when the engine is cold, add water at the crossover tube until full...

Run the motor and see if it overheats.

Repeat as needed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
XLRVIII said:
Suggestion: tell her to not drive the car until you resolve this overheating issue, otherwise you will likely have to "think about" a "problem headgasket".

Leave the overflow bottle closed, open the crossover tube when the engine is cold, add water at the crossover tube until full...

Run the motor and see if it overheats.

Repeat as needed
Yeah, that's what I've been doing. Overflow goes on when the level is right. That's why I don't want to think about the gasket.

Is it possible to stop a grandmother from driving? I suppose I could pull her wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
Or you could "whack" the fuel pump intertia switch in the trunk.. the car wont start.
 

·
The Band, not the Disease!
Joined
·
3,090 Posts
This kind of sounds like the car I had today... not a mark though. The water pump fins on the "turbine" were gone, so it wasn't pumping. No pressure in the system = no heat. No pressure also causes air to be trapped in the system. Let the car reach normal temp and squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses.. if they are real easy to squeeze, i would recommend a water pump.. if they feel like they have pressure, i dont think it is. also, some car's require a vacuum device to completley fill the cooling system.. i.e. 99 concorde i just did =P
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay, so I've talked to the dealership and the shop several times. The shop that owned it doesn't do heads, they farm it out to another local shop that does heads (well known place).

They are being good about picking up some of the costs, given that the issue has been around really since she bought it back in Nov. They are pulling the engine and delivering to the other shop to do the heads and then reinstalling.

What is the cost to redo the heads on one of these? I live in Canada and rates are diff up here. After the smoke clears, she will have to pay $800 plus the 13% taxes. This seems very reasonable to me given that they will be machining the heads etc. He quoted parts, fluids, and misc at $645. with the majority of it towards labour. he said that this job would cost out at $2250.

Sound reasonable or is it slightly inflated? I'm thinking that she is lucky that the heads went now and that she is getting the heads done way cheaper than if the heads went a year or two down the road and she had to foot the whole bill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Wait, why are they pulling the entire engine???
I asked when he quoted me and he said that it was less labour-intense and easier for the shop to work on if the engine is on an engine stand. Essentially, the shop that is doing the engine re & re isn't charging her for their time, since they were the prior owners, and it just makes it a less labour-intensive job for the shop that will be doing the heads re & re and machining.

I figured that made sense.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top