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If I didn't bench bleed my master cylinder, and bled my lines, could there still be air in the lines. Would a bad brake booster cause a peedle to be soft and make the brakes hardly work and the peddle travel to the floor quickly, or would it make the brake peddle hard to press.
 

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A bad booster will make the pedal hard to press.
 

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What they said. If you didn't bench bleed the master, you'll never get the air out. The good news is you don't have to remove the master to do it. You should be able to do it in place.
 

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On all left hand drive cars you will find the master cylinder on the driver's side of the engine bay on the firewall. It is what you put brake fluid into. (Well, technically you put the fluid in the reservoir but it is attached to the master cylinder.)
 

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Blue_beast said:
Where is the master cylinder on 1995 xr7 (3.8L v6)

Look in the upper right hand corner of the pic, it is the silver cylinder that has 2 lines going into it, that has a yellowish plastic reservoir connected to it on top, which is all connected to the black circle thingy called a brake booster.


 

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MC Bleeding procedure - how?

What they said. If you didn't bench bleed the master, you'll never get the air out. The good news is you don't have to remove the master to do it. You should be able to do it in place.
resurecting a dead thread here..... how do you bleed the MC while in place?
 

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resurecting a dead thread here..... how do you bleed the MC while in place?
Some master cylinders have a bleeder screw right on the cylinder itself, or you can just loosen the line screws (with someone holding brake pedal pressure, of course). At least, that's what I've done and works for me!

Sometimes, just pumping the pedal slowly with the lid off will let bubbles come up out (you can see them).

Good luck and Happy Holidays!
 

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resurecting a dead thread here..... how do you bleed the MC while in place?
Are you installing a new one? You should bleed it off the car with in a vise and keep it level.

When you install it on the car, loosen one of the fittings and have someone depress the pedal so some fluid comes out. Tighten the fitting and then have them release it(make sure it is tight or air goes in on release). Repeat.

Do this for the other line too.

Sometimes you can get away with bleeding the whole system if you do it this way.
 

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Are you installing a new one? You should bleed it off the car with in a vise and keep it level.

When you install it on the car, loosen one of the fittings and have someone depress the pedal so some fluid comes out. Tighten the fitting and then have them release it(make sure it is tight or air goes in on release). Repeat.

Do this for the other line too.

Sometimes you can get away with bleeding the whole system if you do it this way.

at first i was just going to bleed the brake system but now i need to replace my booster.
 

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at first i was just going to bleed the brake system but now i need to replace my booster.
You will probably find that the master cylinder is also bad; it leaks fluid into the booster, which kills the rubber diaphragm, making it leak too.

If there is fluid coming out the back of the master cylinder when you remove it, it's bad.
 

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I know this is an old (and revived) thread, but I have an odd issue with the brakes on my bird. Sometimes when I press the brakes there are sometimes a soft pedal although the brakes are grabbing just fine. Sometimes the pedal is firm, but when braking it does not brake very well, then I will hear a click and the pedal is softer, but the brakes grab (almost too good...first time almost put me into the windshield.) I am thinking the booster is going, but I am not sure.
 
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