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Discussion Starter #1
First I screwed up with the balance puller by letting it get into the threads of the crankshaft.

Next when I installed the steeda underdrive pulley I kept cranking down on the supplied bolt until it would go no mo.

The stock bolt would not catch.

So I put a washer on the steeda bolt because it didn't quite reach the large washer and it torqued down to 120 just fine.

I measured the gap at 6 0'clock between the pulley and the timing cover and it measures .08 inches. I did a search and the only reference I saw said it should be .2 inches which sounds big to me. Anyone know a correct gap?

Should I be okay? Since it is tight as a tick wouldn't the only potential problem I have be belt out of alignment and getting eaten?
 

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did you clean the threads up before you installed the balancer and the bolt. if not the the rest of the threads and in the crank or the bolt is messed up. which would throw your belt alingment off. i would personally pull it back off and check the threads if there bad tap it out and put your balancer back on and use your stock bolt or go get and oem one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
this is the response i got back from steeda

the issue is when you bottomed out the bolt the threads in the crankshaft were stripped. That is why your stock bolt would not work anymore. What you did as long as it is holding the pulley on tight enough that the trigger wheel behind the timing cover is not loose so it does not cause any misfire codes and you should be ok.

Otherwise someone would have to retap the threads in the crankshaft for the stock bolt to work again.

---------

Why oh why? brain farts hurt.

Should I be able to tap it and fix the threads to the correct 18mm?
 

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you can try, just be very very careful to not tap in a new thread pattern over top of the current threads.

I would pull the bolt out and see what damage was done, the worst case is you drill/tap the crank to the next size up.

I know about this all too well, my first mod to my mustang was steeda pulleys and me being a lazy idiot I decided to use a air ratchet to finish pulling the pulley onto the crank, well that cross threaded the bolt so I tried to back it out and snapped the bolt off inside the crank, knowing little to nothing about turning a wrench (I was just learning) it was probably one of the biggest OH SH!T moments of my life. Got some advice on a message board and was told to just drill out bolt and old threads and re-tap the crank so I did and it held up just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advise and the shared misery pumm3l. You get beat up too huh?

What I don't understand is why the longer bolt would strip anything. I mean when it hits bottom it stops turning.

So I need to find a 12M x 1.5 tap

and if that doesn't do the trick a 14M x 1.5 tap and what size drill bit? and if that happens what size bolt?

I think this calls for some michelob meditation.
 

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Picture it like this, you're screwing the bolt in and it hits the bottom or top of either the head of the bolt or the bottom of the input shaft. If you keep turning it either you're going to stretch the bolt's threads or you will stretch out the threads inside the crank possibly even cross threading, in your case I would guess the crank threads were cross threaded. that's why you're oem bolt doesn't work.

It's probably hard to gauge exactly what went wrong I would guess you were using a lot of force to press the pulley back on so you probably didn't even realize you bottomed out when it happened until after the fact.

Regarding the bit and tap, if you can't clean up the threads, I would probably go to the next standard size up which is 1/2" maybe even 9/16" to be safe. If you want to stay metric you will have a very hard time finding metric taps locally, at least I did. I think I was able to find metric taps at pep boys after searching 20 different places, they come in single kits - comes with the tap and the corresponding drill bit. If you get a 14mm x 1.5 tap then that's exactly the bolt size you need. Make sure you get a grade 8 bolt or higher for strength.
 

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The stock crank bolt is a one-time-use-only TTY fastener. If you were trying to re-use it it is possible that it got stretched and is now too long. Do yourself a favor after you get the threads sorted out, buy an ARP crank bolt/washer. Cheap and re-useable.
 

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This reminds me of last fall trying to put my underdrives on. I got the pulleys used from a buddy and the bolts were missing. No problem, emailed bbk and they told me the correct size and length. Off to Ace I go, get the bolt I need and start the install. Push the piggyback assembly on and put the bolt in tighten it up a couple turns and bust the first few threads out of the crank. Now I'm thinking F##K!!!!! so I take the bolt out and measure. Bolt's too short so I went back to Ace and start looking in the correct marked bin which upon further inspection has three different length bolts in. Of course I should have noticed the bolt was too short but as the story of my life goes........... Anyway I got the right size and it went right in with no problems to report.
 

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Not to crack wise, but is there a reason you guys aren't using a harmonic balancer installation tool? Is it because of the underdrives?
 

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exactly, Steeda at least supplies a bolt that's suppose to be used to press the pulley back on, that's their installation tool. That's the bolt I snapped off and I believe that's the bolt that geaux bottomed out?
 

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The stock crank bolt is a one-time-use-only TTY fastener. If you were trying to re-use it it is possible that it got stretched and is now too long.
No, it's not.

Arp is good; but the Harmonic Balancer has nowhere near enough force on it for TTY.

You're thinking of the main cap bolts, maybe?
 

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I'm just saying that Steeda's solution doesn't seem all that great....and the crank bolt most certainly is TTY. Look it up. I use the tool and have had zero problems. Worth it to me in down time alone. And all that I have seen have these problems do not use the tool. Also the tool has a bearing surface, cuts down on the friction considerably.
Good luck.
 

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i had "steeda" underdrives on my car and noticed that the crank pulley was extremely close to the timing cover, so much that when you looked at the belt from the side, it was tracking crooked as it approached the crank. I put spacers between the crank damper and timing cover and tightened it down to "space" it properly and that worked, but these crank dampers are supposed to sandwich on the trigger wheel inside the engine.
My solution involved throwing those POS underdrives back in the shed and re-installing stock ones.
-Rob
 

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i've reused it many times...lol
Yeah, the book doesn't say anything about TTY; there's no way there's >180k psi needed on that bolt, lol.

Rod bolts, head bolts, mains... that's about it, according to the helm book...

Now, they do tell you to throw away a bunch of bolts when you take them off; but that's about limiting liability (read CYA for Ford), not TTY.
 

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my 99 is TTY, it expands further than just 2001+. There's a torque sequence for that bolt, it's there for a reason - to stretch the bolt. Otherwise it would tell you to just torque it to x lbs and be done with it. Call your ford parts guy and find out for sure if your crank bolt is TTY or not, I would guess it is.
 

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Yeah I always thought they were TTY, but now I'm reading different things, lol.
I use ARP, it's only like $15 and never have to worry about it?
 
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