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Discussion Starter #1
So I always had the impression that 94-95 Tbirds only had 3.08 rear gears. I was under that impression because the 96-97 cars had 3.27s, and In a TCCOA tech article comparo (see this) states something along those lines. Well my local pull it junky yard had a 40% off weekend so I went out yesterday and picked this up. See pictures below.

As you can see this is a 95 Thunderbird clearly rocking an OEM 3.27 traction lock. What gives? I am happy all the same I picked this up for something close to 40$

Axle Codes
 

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It was optional for 94/95.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I never knew. My 94 had 3.08s and my current 95 has 3.08s. I was under the impression they all had 3.08s. So you could choose between 3.08 and 3.27s for the 94-95 year? then 96-97 went to just 3.27s?
 

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I never knew. My 94 had 3.08s and my current 95 has 3.08s. I was under the impression they all had 3.08s. So you could choose between 3.08 and 3.27s for the 94-95 year? then 96-97 went to just 3.27s?
Yup, TL was still optional in 96/7, but the only gear available was the 3.27.
 

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Great score. Can't beat that for $40
 

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I never knew. My 94 had 3.08s and my current 95 has 3.08s. I was under the impression they all had 3.08s. So you could choose between 3.08 and 3.27s for the 94-95 year? then 96-97 went to just 3.27s?
Yup, TL was still optional in 96/7, but the only gear available was the 3.27.
Traction lock on a 97 "stupid question but

--> would it show some kind of switch for it on dash or would it just exist without knowing you have it .. how's this defined by " sport" "Non sport "? Wondering if I have it.

If u run 373s over 327s every one saying that's truly a good starter upgrade to pep up the torque even before motor mods.
 

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Trac-lok is Ford's name for a limited slip differential. What you're referring to is traction control, that can be turned off with a button.

You can check if you have Trac-lok by looking for axle code E or XE, or just doing a burnout and see if both wheels spin.

Going from 3.27 to 3.73 is a proven performance mod, but you definitely will want Trac-lok if you don't already have it. Keep in mind, the Ford unit is obsolete, so used is your next best option, then rebuild the clutches. You can search Ebay for M-4204-F288, and maybe find a new old stock unit. But make sure it's for an IRS diff, there's a difference.

Also with 3.73's, expect a major hit in hwy gas mileage, like a solid 2-3 MPG drop.

Al
 

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But 3.73's are so much fun!

I ran 4.10's on my car for about two years. I just recently switched back to 3.73's, the 4.10's are just too much gear for the highway. Great for the track, lousy for the highway.
 

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Traction lock on a 97 "stupid question but

--> would it show some kind of switch for it on dash or would it just exist without knowing you have it .. how's this defined by " sport" "Non sport "? Wondering if I have it.

If u run 373s over 327s every one saying that's truly a good starter upgrade to pep up the torque even before motor mods.
There would be a button, usually on a panel occupying the "cubby" under the stereo, or possibly near the defrost switch. I don't recall.

The car would also have ABS, as it uses the ABS to brake the wheel that is spinning as stage one, then it starts pulling fuel.

If you don't have a button, you either don't have it, or a previous owner pulled the switch for some reason.
If you don't have ABS, you don't have it, period. Could have a TL rear end, but that is not traction control in the electronic sense. Personally, not a big fan of first gen traction control. It's not "smart" enough, and makes things like rocking the car out of snow a pain in the butt.
 

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Trac-lok is Ford's name for a limited slip differential. What you're referring to is traction control, that can be turned off with a button.

You can check if you have Trac-lok by looking for axle code E or XE, or just doing a burnout and see if both wheels spin.

Going from 3.27 to 3.73 is a proven performance mod, but you definitely will want Trac-lok if you don't already have it. Keep in mind, the Ford unit is obsolete, so used is your next best option, then rebuild the clutches. You can search Ebay for M-4204-F288, and maybe find a new old stock unit. But make sure it's for an IRS diff, there's a difference.

Also with 3.73's, expect a major hit in hwy gas mileage, like a solid 2-3 MPG drop.

Al
SuperCoupePerformance still has TL units for the MN-12/FN-10 platform in stock. Only place for them as far as I know.
Or, you can use a non IRS unit if you machine the races or leave out the C clips.
 

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In 97s the traction control button is under the center console lid, next to the trunk release button - same spot as the fuel door release in 94-95. 94-96 placed it on the left side of the lower DIN VMM panel, and without it you either had a blank VMM with "indicator lights/fluid levels" text occupying the area, or just a plain storage cubby.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think if I had a V6 car I would do a 4.10 open diff. Whats 140$ for a set of gears, you would turn that slug into something, I am at a loss for how to describe it. I may even go 4.30s. I doubt I will ever own a v6 car, but never say never

I am going to sell that iron housing as I have an aluminum housing with some 3.55s I am going to install into my car now.
 

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SuperCoupePerformance still has TL units for the MN-12/FN-10 platform in stock. Only place for them as far as I know.
Or, you can use a non IRS unit if you machine the races or leave out the C clips.
Yes, but they are not Ford units, they are aftermarket, Yukon or something. Which means you will have to set all the backlash and gear patterns for just adding the limited slip (not calling it a Trac-lok because it isn't).

With a genuine Ford unit, as long as you keep the shims exactly the way they came out, you just replace one diff with the other if you're only swapping in a Trac-lok. This is the way RobertP does it.

If you're changing the gears, then yes, you will have to set the backlash, etc no matter what, so might as well get the Pukon.

Al
 

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Yes, but they are not Ford units, they are aftermarket, Yukon or something. Which means you will have to set all the backlash and gear patterns for just adding the limited slip (not calling it a Trac-lok because it isn't).

With a genuine Ford unit, as long as you keep the shims exactly the way they came out, you just replace one diff with the other if you're only swapping in a Trac-lok. This is the way RobertP does it.

If you're changing the gears, then yes, you will have to set the backlash, etc no matter what, so might as well get the Pukon.

Al
Actually, with all the Ford gears I have done, if I was using Ford gears, and a Ford diff, I have never had to change anything with the shims. I always check it when I do a set of gears, and even when I just swap to a trac-lok with the same gears, with the Ford 8.8s at least, I've probably set up close to 100 of them over the years, and I have never had one where I had to change anything from the factory setup. Only twice did I have to do all that, once was with a set of Yukon Gear 4.10s (although their 3.73s also fell right into place like the Ford gears), and once was when someone had previously messed with it and set it up wrong. The Chevy 10 bolt is similar, although the tolerances on that don't seem to be as tight, since a couple times I have had to change up some of the shims.
 

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My v6 5sp car has a 2L73 from the donor SC the trans came from. It's really not too bad with the extra power from the 4.2 and it's great on road trips. I just grabbed a 3L27 from a 96 Sport for it this past weekend though. I'll have to watch a youtube video on how to change the clutches because I just flushed and installed new axle seals on the one in the car.
 

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If it's an SC trans, they are geared very low. That is the only trans that works with the 2.73's, performance wise.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sounds like a "one in a million" find good for you. Don't forget to swap out the Speedo gear in the trans.
Speedo smedo. I have the 3.55s under the car now. Someone ate the back end of it and damaged the quarter, the trunk and the rear bumper about a month after I went through the ENTIRE suspension. I think it will be ok, my buddy who is a buddy man will have the car on loan to drive in since he blew another motor in his GTO. (6.0 LS newer body GTO). So he will get bored and pull it out for sure. When he was driving the car home after he picked it up he called me to tell me that it was too nice of a car not to fix. He isn't wrong.
 
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